ISF-Settings for Euro PDP-LX5090

[johannesk]

I started calibrating my 5090 yesterday. There's still a lot to do as you can see from the CalMAN reports, but here are my initial findings.

Setup & Gear

System: PS3 > Denon AVR-4308 > Pioneer PDP-LX5090
Hardware: Chroma5, Eye-One Pro, MSI Wind U100
Software: ControlCAL, CalMAN Standard
Patterns: ColorHCFR PAL DVD, AVS HD 709

Measurement Runs

ISF-Day = PAL / Eye-One Pro
ISF-Day = PAL / Chroma5
ISF-Day = PAL / Chroma5 profiled with Eye-One Pro

ISF-Night = HDTV / Eye-One Pro
ISF-Night = HDTV / Chroma5
ISF-Night = HDTV / Chroma5 profiled with Eye-One Pro

Settings (based on Bumtious-settings (http://www.avforums.com/forums/plasma-televisions/787159-pioneer-plasmas-settings-information.html))

ISF-Day = PAL (Input: HDMI 1 @ 1080p)

Energy Save: Off
Contrast 32
Brightness 0
Color 0
Enhancer Mode: 2
Color Space: 2

RGB Controls
RH -5
GH 0
BH 2
RL -1
GL -1
BL -1

Colour Management: all zero

ISF-Night = HDTV (Input: HDMI 1 @ 1080p)

Energy Save: Off
Contrast 32
Brightness 1
Color 0
Enhancer Mode: 2
Color Space: 2

RGB Controls
RH -4
GH 0
BH 2
RL -1
GL -1
BL -1

Colour Management: all zero

[johannesk]

ISF-Night / HDTV Rec 709 reports.

[D-Nice]

Interesting reports. So, have you concluded that there really isn't much difference between a non-profiled C5 vs i1pro? Looking at the raw numbers, the difference between the two are 0.0016, at most, on the x and y axis. dE difference is less than 1.

[johannesk]

Interesting reports. So, have you concluded that there really isn't much difference between a non-profiled C5 vs i1pro? Looking at the raw numbers, the difference between the two are 0.0016, at most, on the x and y axis. dE difference is less than 1.

So it seems. I'll take more measurements soon just to be sure. I think the readings with the profiled c5 look a bit weird, shouldn't they be more in line with the original e1pro readings?

It's tricky business as you have to remember to keep both instruments on the plasma's panel all the time to keep them in the right temperature. And of course recalibrate e1pro every ~10 minutes. I'm such a newbie to calibration, so for me this is sometimes like piloting a space shuttle :D

[LebEryo]

Out of curiousity, how do you re-cal an i1Pro every 10 minutes? I'm actually using ColorHCFR though not Calman.

So it seems. I'll take more measurements soon just to be sure. I think the readings with the profiled c5 look a bit weird, shouldn't they be more in line with the original e1pro readings?

It's tricky business as you have to remember to keep both instruments on the plasma's panel all the time to keep them in the right temperature. And of course recalibrate e1pro every ~10 minutes. I'm such a newbie to calibration, so for me this is sometimes like piloting a space shuttle :D

[johannesk]

Out of curiousity, how do you re-cal an i1Pro every 10 minutes? I'm actually using ColorHCFR though not Calman.

CalMAN has a button for this in the UI, I place the i1pro on the plastic "dock" and push the re-cal button. CalMAN also has a counter that starts blinking after 20 minutes, but I'm a bit neurotic so I'll do it every 10-15 minutes.

[LebEryo]

Ahh, you mean, the Measures\Sensor\Calibrate Sensor button? I thought you only had to calibrate at the beginning. ControlCal's never reminded me or anything like that to re-cal the probe. So we're supposed to do it every 15min?

[Turbe]

Well, that should be a feature of ColorHCFR since it's the application that communicates with the meter...:eek:

[LebEryo]

Ahh, you mean, the Measures\Sensor\Calibrate Sensor button? I thought you only had to calibrate at the beginning. ColorHCFR's never reminded me or anything like that to re-cal the probe. So we're supposed to do it every 15min?
Sorry, Turbe got the names mixed up.

[PioFreak]

Did you calibrate the 5090 with film mode set to advance or to off? Does that make a difference at all?

[johannesk]

Did you calibrate the 5090 with film mode set to advance or to off? Does that make a difference at all?

Film mode doesn't affect the readings, I set it to advance. With PAL some use the ISF-Day for video deinterlacing and ISF-Night for film deinterlacing (or vice versa). It's a lot easier than changing both drive mode and film mode from user menu. I use VP50Pro for deinterlacing DVB-C broadcast.

I have the Energy Save setting on to avoid the buzzing. I'll check was it Mode1 or Mode2. [edit: well.. actually it's OFF]

[johannesk]

Here's a few photos from the calibration session:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30906329@N04/sets/72157607990580151/

[Turbe]

Very clean setup.. I like it.. :thumbsup:

[johannesk]

Very clean setup.. I like it.. :thumbsup:

Thanks! :D

Here's some more photos. I'm currently trying out 2.0 for audio, but might return to this 5.0-setup:
http://www.stencylvania.com/ht/

The backlighting seen in the photos is quite convenient (it isn't that strong in real life). And cheap: I used Ikea's ledsticks and attached paper strips to soften the lightpattern and also to make the colour a bit warmer.

I'll have to update this diagram too, since I'm currently using VP50Pro to process dvb-c broadcast signal (Scart RGB>VP50Pro):

http://www.stencylvania.com/ht/ht5.gif

[johannesk]

I ran another set of measurements with exactly the same settings as before. This time I took care that both meters left the panel only for quick re-cals (to keep them in the right temperature).

Attached: CalMAN ISF-Night / HDTV Rec 709 reports.

[johannesk]

Attached: CalMAN ISF-Day / SDTV PAL reports.

[johannesk]

And then I tried how the HDTV Rec 709 settings (my ISF-Night) worked with PAL-signal (that came from the same source as the HD signal did).

Attached: CalMAN ISF-Night / SDTV PAL reports.

Explanations for the filenames:

c5 = Chroma5
e1pro = Eye-One Pro
c5_P = Chroma5 profiled with Eye-One Pro

[PioFreak]

And then I tried how the HDTV Rec 709 settings (my ISF-Night) worked with PAL-signal (that came from the same source as the HD signal did).

Attached: CalMAN ISF-Night / SDTV PAL reports.

Explanations for the filenames:

c5 = Chroma5
e1pro = Eye-One Pro
c5_P = Chroma5 profiled with Eye-One Pro

What film mode do you use for PAL, and which mode for HD (Blu ray etc.)?

Also, how do you think ISF modes compare to Movie AV mode? I have not calibrated the ISf modes, I am just using some settings I got from this forum. But....I find the movie mode to have slightly better shadow detail and it just "looks better" in a small way.

[johannesk]

What film mode do you use for PAL, and which mode for HD (Blu ray etc.)?

Also, how do you think ISF modes compare to Movie AV mode? I have not calibrated the ISf modes, I am just using some settings I got from this forum. But....I find the movie mode to have slightly better shadow detail and it just "looks better" in a small way.

Here you go :)

- I have an external VP that processes PAL, but without it I'd use "Film Mode: Standard" for film and "Film Mode: OFF" for video. And I'd also change "Drive Mode: 1" for film and "Drive Mode: 2" for video.
- ISF modes are based on Movie mode(my own settings gave exactly the same results between ISF modes and Movie mode).

Attached reports (HDMI1 Input, AVSHD 709, e1pro):

- Report for Movie mode (factory default)
- Report for Standard mode (factory default)
- Report for User mode (factory default)
- Report for Movie mode with Bumtious-settings
- All my own settings in one txt file

Conclusions:

- Standard mode is quite off
- User mode is based on Standard mode (and is quite off)
- Out-of-the-box Movie mode needs tweaking
- Bumtious-settings gave me good but not perfect readings
- I'm quite happy with my own settings (attached txt file)

Ps, sorry of spamming so much reports :D

[PioFreak]

Thanks. The only thing I would wonder if there would be a way to leave Red, green and blue LOW alone. I know that lowering them to -1 will slightly reduce shadow detail (that has been my experience anyway from pausing movies during very dark scenes and adjusting things). Nothing major, but still....

I also see you have brightness at +1. I set that at 0 because I simply find it more appealing. I have spent way too much time pausing blu rays and deciding whether brightness should be at 0 or 1. I settle at 0 for now because it appears to be correct to my eyes. There are just too many scenes where +1 brightness didn't look correct. Maybe you could get away with brightness set at 0 if the RGB lows were zeroed as well. Just thoughts.

[johannesk]

RGB Lows at 0 gave me inferior results, but I'll do some more experimenting on this.

After experimenting with CalMAN and some Blu-ray's, I think that brightness at 1 is the "neutral setting" for HD. But as you've seen there are lots of movies that are mastered with too high black level in some dark scenes. Maybe it's the directors artistic intention, but it's really frustrating for some of us Kuro owners :D

[PioFreak]

RGB Lows at 0 gave me inferior results, but I'll do some more experimenting on this.

After experimenting with CalMAN and some Blu-ray's, I think that brightness at 1 is the "neutral setting" for HD. But as you've seen there are lots of movies that are mastered with too high black level in some dark scenes. Maybe it's the directors artistic intention, but it's really frustrating for some of us Kuro owners :D

I have my contrast on 36 and gamma on 2. When I use the DVE BR disc a brightness setting of 0 allows the 2% above black bar to be barely visible...but visible. At a brightness of 1 the 2% bar becomes too bright by my estimations.

How are you setting brightness....using DVE BR or Calman? How does Calman allow you to set brightness?

Maybe our different settings stem from the fact that you have brightness at 32 and I am at 36. Could that be?

[PioFreak]

You bring up an interesting point about the mastering of the disc and too high black levels. Maybe that is what I am seeing in some scenes with brightness at 1. Very frustrating if that is the case. Because brightness 1 exposes the too high black levels of some movies......brightness 0 seemingly "corrects" this, but occasionaly crushes a tiny bit of detail (or is it a mastering flaw?). I will say that with brightness at 0 there is a little more pop and depth to the picture....but this may be fake contrast due to the crushing of low light details. Tough to be sure. I wish there was an exact and objective way to set brightness. If there is does anyone know what it is. Or is the proverbial question of brightness at 0 or 1 just always going to exist and it comes down to preference?

[PioFreak]

I am using DVE Blu ray edition, and ISF Night and day do not look as good at the movie mode on my 5090. I have tried Various ISF settings from this forum, and then compared test patterns and content switching between Movie Av mode and the ISF modes. The Movie mode just plain looks better.

1) Movie mode is sharper. Compare using the sharpness test pattern, and it is pretty clear. I can even tell when pausing a closeup of soemone's face on a Blu ray. It is as if the secondary sharpness circuit (enhancer mode 1-3) doesn't work in ISF modes. I have Movie mode on enhancer mode 1 and ISF on enhancer mode 1, and sharpness is at -15 for both.

2) Grey steps (in the middle of the pluge pattern) look cleaner and more natural in Movie mode. The gray has a somewhat washed out and fainter look in the ISF modes, making the digital noise more apparent.

When doing an A-B comparison with test patterns, it is clear that Movie mode is sharper (without creating excessive sharpening artifacts or halos) and less noisy.

So for me. the ISF modes are flawed on a software level...they are not even as good as the movie mode.

I hope someone can do dome AB comparisons as well using the DVE Blu Ray and confirm or deny this. Also look at a paused scene on a Blu ray movie and look for differences in detail and overall sharpness.

Maybe this is a flaw in Control cal as far as the enhancer mode selection being off.

[johannesk]

About the sharpness-issue, I'll look into it soon.

If you run ControlCAL now and choose an ISF-mode and press the "Refresh"-button, how does the Enhancer value look? I find that sometimes my Pioneer didn't remember the values sent by ControlCAL, but resending them helped.

[PioFreak]

About the sharpness-issue, I'll look into it soon.

If you run ControlCAL now and choose an ISF-mode and press the "Refresh"-button, how does the Enhancer value look? I find that sometimes my Pioneer didn't remember the values sent by ControlCAL, but resending them helped.

I will check tonite. Also, bring up the pluge pattern with gray vertical steps in the middle.....then switch between Movie and ISF night. Do the grays just seem more "solid" and "accurate" in Movie mode to you? Try a Blu ray paused with a semi-close up of someones face....and switch between Movie and ISF night mode. I would be interested if you are seeing what I am. As is, I would NEVER use ISF modes because they are clearly producing an inferior picture (not night and day(no pun intended), but clearly less quality)....and not something that could be corrected via a calibration....unless their is a glitch within the ISF software that is causing this "softness".

Also, about the brightness setting. I went back and looked at the pluge pattern on DVE Blu ray disc AND both pluge patterns on the AVS HD 709 Blu ray Calibration disc (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496).

With DVE, a brightness setting of 0 yields a clearly visible but low luminescence 2% bar. The 4% bar is clearly visible of course, and brighter than the 2 % bar...about twice as bright by eye. A brightness setting of 1 yields a clearly visible but higher luminescence 2% bar. The 4% bar is clearly visible of course, and brighter than the 2 % bar...about twice as bright (or a bit less) by eye. But the 2% bar just seems too bright for 2%. I have always been told that the brightness should be as low as possible so long as the 2% is clearly there but "barely visible"...which I interpret to mean that if I go one click lower the bar becomes almost indistinguishable from the background and essentially disappears. So I think that according to DVE that 0 is correct. Also let your eyes adjust to the dark room for a good 5 minutes before using this pattern.

With the AVS REC 709 disc I burned, here is a description of how to use three of the patterns on the disc (all the descriptions are in the link above):

1 - Black Clipping Pattern
This is a very low Average Picture Level (APL) pattern for observing if you are incorrectly clipping very dark colors on digital displays, or if you're unnecessarily showing colors below black. By turning up the black-level (brightness) on your TV you should see that this pattern contains a number of vertical bars that flash over top of a dark background. As you lower the brightness control you will see the lower numbered bars disappear into the background so that they no longer flash. The idea is to lower the black-level control until the reference black (16) matches the background but the numbers above 16 can still be seen to flash if you look very closely at the image. You might find that when 16 stops flashing that the numbers above 16 also stop flashing, and in that case go as low as you can with the black-level control and set it one click above where 17 stops flashing. Basically you want to set black-level as dark as possible so that 17 is still flashing.


2 - Average Picture Level Black and White
This pattern has a higher APL than the first pattern, and it shows both the levels around black (16) and the levels around white (235). Like the first pattern this can also be used for setting black-level, and the idea is somewhat similar. If you turn up the black-level (brightness) control you will see that there are vertical bars next to each other and there is flashing going on for both dark gray and below-black. As you lower the brightness control the below-black will stop flashing. The lower you go the more below-black will stop flashing, but don't go so low that the dark grays stop flashing. Like with the first pattern, if you look very closely (get right up next to the image if you have to) you want to be able to see the dark grays (bars numbered higher than 16) barely flash, but you do not want below-black to flash at the same time if possible.

One use for this pattern is to check the setting given by the first pattern. On many TVs the same black-level setting received from the black clipping pattern will also work with this pattern. In that case, the setting from the first pattern should be used because it can be a little more accurate due to the single color differences it offers. Every TV might not be able to use the black-level setting from the first pattern, because some TVs might vary black-level with different APL images. If that's the case with your TV, then the 2nd pattern might be more accurate for setting black-level. If you find that the 1st and 2nd patterns clearly require different brightness settings with your TV, then I would suggest you might want to use the higher of the two settings.


3 - White Clipping Pattern
This is a very high Average Picture Level (APL) pattern that can be used to tell if you're incorrectly clipping grays less than 235 on digital displays. Somewhat similar to setting black-level, you can lower the white-level (contrast or picture) control and you should see a number of vertical flashing bars somewhat like the first pattern. If you see no flashing at all, then either the source or display is clipping near-whites. For most situations that shouldn't be an issue, so the most important thing to check is that grays less than 235 are flashing. (more description via link above)



When I used pattern 1 - Black Clipping Pattern, I found that at brightness -1 the 17 black bar would stop flashing and at brightness of 0 the 17 bar would start flashing again. So according to the description.....0 is the correct setting.

When I used pattern 2 - Average Picture Level Black and White,
I found that a brightness of 0 I could still see the 1% black bar flash (even though it was very feint). Keep in mind that you need to get right up next to the screen to see the 1% bar ever so feintly flash. I would also recommend letting your eyes adjust to the darkness for at least 5 minutes before you use these patterns. From the description: "Like with the first pattern, if you look very closely (get right up next to the image if you have to) you want to be able to see the dark grays (bars numbered higher than 16) barely flash, but you do not want below-black to flash at the same time if possible." So from this I get a brightness setting of 0 as correct.


I am saying this not to challenge what you have as the correct setting. I am doing this to reinforce what I am doing with my set and to get advice from the people more knowledgeable than me here. Also, being that we are one of a few with the 5090 on this forum, I want to offer anything I find to you so that you can take it evaluate it for yourself.....and either use it or throw it out. But the end result should be that our displays perform at their best.:thumbsup: I also mention the brightness issue because I know that the ideal brightness and contrast setting are the foundation of a great calibration. While I am just using the good old eyes and the calibration discs at the moment (wifey won't yet authorize the purchase of the i1pro Calman bundle...Christmas hopefully:o), I know you are using a meter.

I also have evaluated many Blu ray scenes for a total of many hours (too many:D), and deciding on ideal settings (by eye anyway). For instance the color test pattern and the color filters give a color setting of +6 or +7. But common wisdom is that method is innacurate with Plasmas, and going 3-4 clicks below that is closer to accurate. So after much evaluation...I find +3 to be accurate and pleasing. I did the same with brightness and a setting of 0 just gave the picture and depth I expect from a Kuro, while still showing the shadow details wonderfully. I also found quite a few instances where a setting of 1 clearly showed some blacker than black hazy garbage that couldn't be the intent of whomever mastered the disc. And if you get right up next to the screen when viewing the DVE Blu ray pluge pattern a brightness setting of 1 shows a very feint outline of the below black bar that completely disappears when brightness is lowered to 0.

Also, a contrast setting of 40 is as high as you can go in Move mode at least before white clipping begins. (DVE BR has a great pattern for this as well as called 3 - White Clipping Pattern...description above). I did find that there is a red shift that goes away at somewhere above 40 (I forget the exact contrast setting), but contrast must come down to 40 to avoid clipping. I set contrast at 38 for now (until I get a meter and maybe then I will have a ftl output goal...I don't know) foe two reasons.
1) I felt that 40 was a little too bright for my eyes (even though I have bias backlighting)
2) I noticed when using the AVS REC 709 disc and the 3 - White Clipping Pattern that there was a bluish cast to the flashing white bars that disappeared at 38! This was odd to me because I have heard that a reddish cast is more likely.....but with this pattern I got a red cast somewhere above 40 that went away, then a blueish one that went away at 38. Odd. So it is 38 for now. That creates an incredible contrast from a brightness of zero and the picture just looks incredible. I am wondering where this blusih cast is coming from....the disc, my set, or my settings.

Anyhow, figured I would share. BTW, I am using a PS3 as my source component.

[Turbe]

So for me. the ISF modes are flawed on a software level...they are not even as good as the movie mode.

I just did a quick read through in this Thread. It appears you are not using a meter. You really should do a proper calibration with a meter and software like ColorHCFR or CalMAN. I have not seen any Posts by European/UK Professional Calibrators (or their customers) in regards to any suggested flaws (and they do use ControlCAL on the 9G's too ;)).

Using other Member's posted settings is a good starting point and should help when you do your own DIY calibration.

[PioFreak]

I just did a quick read through in this Thread. It appears you are not using a meter. You really should do a proper calibration with a meter and software like ColorHCFR or CalMAN. I have not seen any Posts by European/UK Professional Calibrators (or their customers) in regards to any suggested flaws (and they do use ControlCAL on the 9G's too ;)).

Using other Member's posted settings is a good starting point and should help when you do your own DIY calibration.

You are right, and I think ControlCal is an excellent product. But what I see is not fixable via tweaking a few settings via calibration. It is a softness to the image that is noticeable. Not a huge difference, but folks like us deal in subtle but tangible differences all the time.

My theory is that maybe the "enhancer mode" is not taking the setting I am entering via ControlCal, and it is reverting to enhancer mode 2. Or maybe I entered the wrong value. I kinda doubt that and I am gonna go back tonite and check the settings once again, and then refresh them and see which settings come back from the set.

[PioFreak]

Enhancer mode 1 was engaged when I refreshed and got the displays settings.

[PioFreak]

I am using DVE Blu ray edition, and ISF Night and day do not look as good at the movie mode on my 5090. I have tried Various ISF settings from this forum, and then compared test patterns and content switching between Movie Av mode and the ISF modes. The Movie mode just plain looks better.

1) Movie mode is sharper. Compare using the sharpness test pattern, and it is pretty clear. I can even tell when pausing a closeup of soemone's face on a Blu ray. It is as if the secondary sharpness circuit (enhancer mode 1-3) doesn't work in ISF modes. I have Movie mode on enhancer mode 1 and ISF on enhancer mode 1, and sharpness is at -15 for both.

2) Grey steps (in the middle of the pluge pattern) look cleaner and more natural in Movie mode. The gray has a somewhat washed out and fainter look in the ISF modes, making the digital noise more apparent.

When doing an A-B comparison with test patterns, it is clear that Movie mode is sharper (without creating excessive sharpening artifacts or halos) and less noisy.

So for me. the ISF modes are flawed on a software level...they are not even as good as the movie mode.

I hope someone can do dome AB comparisons as well using the DVE Blu Ray and confirm or deny this. Also look at a paused scene on a Blu ray movie and look for differences in detail and overall sharpness.

Maybe this is a flaw in Control cal as far as the enhancer mode selection being off.


After more testing.....I WAS IN ERROR. There is no problem with ISF modes on the 5090.

ISF Night or Day mode will allow MUCH more brightness than Movie mode WITHOUT CLIPPING WHITES. I don't mean a little more brightness, I mean a LOT more. I am not saying that the grayscale is exact, because I do not have the equipment to measure that. BUT to the eye the picture looks like the grayscale is not quite as accurate at this brightness level. But still a very pleasing picture. And it is much brighter and whiter whites. This could be of benefit to people who watch during the day. I still prefer the the lower brightness for night viewing, but ISF mode will now be what I can use if it is sunny out.



Also, I was doing A-B comparisons between Movie mode with brightness 40 and ISF Night brightness 40. All other parameters were exactly the same as well. Again, ISF was pumping out much more brightness than Movie mode. It may be that the ISF modes have the basic characteristics of Movie mode with teh brightness behavior of standard mode. Who knows. But two more available AV modes at the least.:thumbsup:

[hariskar]

RL -1
GL -1
BL -1


Why did you put all low colors to -1 and not at 0?
Thank you!

[PioFreak]

Why did you put all low colors to -1 and not at 0?
Thank you!

I can answer that for him, as I questioned him on it earlier. Turns out he was farther along on the intelligence curve than me:D.

They are set at -1 because those are the settings that produced the most accurate picture on his set using his calibration equipment. They also produce the most accurate picture TO MY EYES on my 5090.

Pull up a pluge pattern and experiment. You should see no colors in the 2 % and 4% bars, and they should be shades of grey. :thumbsup:

[ste_diver]

Hi, I'm a newbe and also an owner of an european 5090. I'd like to improve my experience with this TV by activating ISF mode. Actually I have only controlCal SW but i'd like to test some "advanced" setting. Who can suggest me the right way to reach a goog setting mix for Bluray vision? I will try johannesk setting but I see there are much more parameters to set. Are there some other european 5090 owner that can help me?

Thankyou

[Turbe]

His isf Night Settings are for 1080p (Post #1), give them a try. He is using a PS3 for his BR Playback it looks like.

Perhaps you should consider getting a meter and a DIY Calibration :thumbup:

[sbg5121]

Hi,
My settings for ISF-Day/ISF-Night.

Model: Pioneer PDP-LX5090
Input: HDMI 4
Sonde: DATACOLOR Spyder3
Logiciel: Colorimètre HCFR
Mires: AVS HD 709
Source: SONY BDP-S5000ES
Câble HDMI: W&M audio

AV Selection: ISF-Day/ISF-Night

Contrast 32/22
Brightness 0
Colour +3
Tint 0
Sharpness -15

PICTURE DETAIL

DRE Picture OFF
Black Level OFF
ACL OFF
Enhancer Mode 2

COLOUR DETAIL

Colour Temp Manual (Press ENTER for 3 seconds)

ISF-Day / ISF-Night
Red High -3 / -3
Green High 0 / 0
Blue High 0 / 0
Red Low -1 / -1
Green Low 0 / 0
Blue Low 0 / 0

Colour Management

Red 0
Yellow 0
Green 0
Cyan 0
Blue 0
Magenta 0

Gamma ISF-Day all "-1"
Gamma ISF-Night all "0"

Colour Space 2

Energy Save: OFF


"ISF-Day":
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/9237/niveauxrvbisfjour.jpg
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/473/gammaisfjour.jpg
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/9470/tempraturedecouleurisfj.jpg

"ISF-Night":
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/4569/niveauxrvbisfnuit.jpg
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/722/gammaisfnuit.jpg
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/3636/tempraturedecouleurisfn.jpg

[meriidus]

hi all from the uk here and have a 5090 is there any more info on the settings, this thread seems to have died off any new info i use the user setting with the settings above and seems to be very close to movie mode but has the pop.

[nlnl]

I have entered Johannesk settings for ISF night
http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2099&postcount=19
and here I attached the report (I1 display2, Colorhcfr, AVSHD 709, HDMI, HTPC nvidia 9400 MPC-HC source).
I like the settings. Thank you Johannesk.
The only little problem is red color. My I1 Display 2 is not well calibrated?
What do you think?

Edited: Screens attached