puremind
11-18-2008, 06:29 AM
This thread is to share your experience calibrating the European KRP 500A and 600A Pioneer models.
I will start by posting my pre-breaking calibration results. The following was used:
1. ControlCAL connected via serial cable
2. HCFR
3. i1 Pro Spectro
4. Calman and AV Frums Test Patterns for cross-referencing of the results.
4. Dell XPS Laptop with 2 Nvidia 8800M GTX Graphic Cards in SLI connected to the Media Box through DVI HDMI cable.
The first thing I did was test the existing modes and compare them with the ISF modes. As observed on other models, the ISF modes allow for greater brightness to be achieved without any gamma clipping. While the pure mode allows up to 145cd/mē with a contrast setting of 40 (anything above 40 leads to clipping whites), the ISF modes allowed for a bightness of 190 cd/mē at the same contrast value of 40.
Post-calibration, this is what I was able to achieve using the ISF modes:
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2867/krp500aweissabgleichjq8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img444.images...chjq8.jpg/1/w640.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img444/krp500aweissabgleichjq8.jpg/1/)
- Gamma= 2,2
- Back luminance was measured between 0,001 and 0,029 (the i1 Pro does not yield accurate measures below 0,5 cd/mē).
- White luminance was measured at 190 cd/mē using 25% windowed patterns
- The ANSI white level was 103cd/mē
The color space is as follows:
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2221/krp500afarbraumqp8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img444.images...umqp8.jpg/1/w640.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img444/krp500afarbraumqp8.jpg/1/)[/quote]
Those are the settings I am using
Video: Colour 4
AV Selection: ISF-Day
Contrast: 35 (35 to 40 is fine and does not impact gamma negatively)
Brightness: 0
Color: +3
Tint: -1
Sharpness: 9 (this is my first plasma)
Pure Cinema: Off
Text Optimization: Off
Intelligence: Off
DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 1
Color Space: 2
CTI: Off
3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Power Save Mode: Off
Orbiter: Mode 2
RGB Controls
R High -1
G High 1
B High 0
R Low -1
G Low 0
B Low 0
Color Management
R 0
Y +1
G -1
C 0
B 0
M 0
Gamma
10%R 0
10%G 0
10%B 0
20%R 0
20%G 0
20%B 0
30%R 0
30%G 0
30%B 0
40%R 0
40%G 0
40%B 0
50%R 0
50%G 0
50%B 0
60%R 0
60%G 0
60%B 0
70%R 0
70%G 0
70%B 0
80%R 0
80%G 0
80%B 0
90%R 0
90%G 0
90%B 0
The only complaint I have with this TV is the slightly undersaturated green and yellow. Unfortunately the CMS of the KRP while it allows to adjust color hues does not not offer controls for color satuations. Also, correcting the slight green hue inaccuracy involves adding more red to the gree color, which introduces undefeatable red push in the grey scale below 40$ stimulus.
The only way to obtain saturated greens and yellows was to switch to color Mode 1 and reduce color down to approimatively -8. This however means that other colors will be slightly oversaturated. Still, for people who like their colors to pop, this may be an option.
The CMS of the Samsung A956 (LED LCD) is more advanced and overall allows for slightly more accurate colors. White balance and dynamic range however are better on the Pioneer.
I did not spend a huge amount of time on the calibration since my set has only run for 25 hours. I will post updated results when the break-in period has expired.
Finally I would like to share a couple of calibration tips with both potential and existing owners:
- Decreasing the contrast from 40 to 35 or low usually means you end up decreasing the overall luminance and hence the green output is reduced (green is responsible for most of the luminance perception). In calibration terms this means the Green High setting should be increased by 1 or the Red/Blue High settings recuded by 1
- It is possible to improve white balance at low stimulous through selective use of the CMS system. The RGB Low settings can be a but drastic at times and it may be more efficient to adjust the color hues. For example, if you were trying to increase the amount of red at low stimulus only by a little margin, pushing the green color toward red by one pip may do the trick. This usually applies to all colors.
- The type of pattern you use (25%, 33%, 50%) will depend on the type of video material you are targetting. For DTV material with an abundancy of bright pictures, you may want to calibrate with 50% patterns in order to make sure your gamma will not clip too often. For Film viewing on the other hand, bright scenes will not be as frequent and therefore you may want to calibrate with 25% grey scale patterns
- You should chose the appropriate "Video Colour" parameter in the settings depending on the sources you are connecting to each input. This setting has an impact on the type of gamma that is being used. Set this wrong and you may never be able to come up with a flat gamma! If you are calibrating using a PC, you should be aware in the gamma differences between each video player and/or codec pack. In my case I had to use Video = Color 4 for Windows Media player and Auto for VLC.
- The individual gamma points should usually be moved in parallel for each color, as the gamma for each color channel is the same to start with. Disrupting this equilibrium means trouble. I would only use the gamma setting when trying to achieve a different picture feel than the tradional flat gamma. Some of the contrast enhancement settings actually do fancy things with your gamma curve, sometimes working against the natural tendancy of the display's gamma to dip at high stimulous. I haven't had time to do a lot of analysis at this point in time.
Admin Edit:
Hi, I added some line spacing for that last section, it makes it a little easier to read.. :D
I will start by posting my pre-breaking calibration results. The following was used:
1. ControlCAL connected via serial cable
2. HCFR
3. i1 Pro Spectro
4. Calman and AV Frums Test Patterns for cross-referencing of the results.
4. Dell XPS Laptop with 2 Nvidia 8800M GTX Graphic Cards in SLI connected to the Media Box through DVI HDMI cable.
The first thing I did was test the existing modes and compare them with the ISF modes. As observed on other models, the ISF modes allow for greater brightness to be achieved without any gamma clipping. While the pure mode allows up to 145cd/mē with a contrast setting of 40 (anything above 40 leads to clipping whites), the ISF modes allowed for a bightness of 190 cd/mē at the same contrast value of 40.
Post-calibration, this is what I was able to achieve using the ISF modes:
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2867/krp500aweissabgleichjq8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img444.images...chjq8.jpg/1/w640.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img444/krp500aweissabgleichjq8.jpg/1/)
- Gamma= 2,2
- Back luminance was measured between 0,001 and 0,029 (the i1 Pro does not yield accurate measures below 0,5 cd/mē).
- White luminance was measured at 190 cd/mē using 25% windowed patterns
- The ANSI white level was 103cd/mē
The color space is as follows:
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2221/krp500afarbraumqp8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img444.images...umqp8.jpg/1/w640.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img444/krp500afarbraumqp8.jpg/1/)[/quote]
Those are the settings I am using
Video: Colour 4
AV Selection: ISF-Day
Contrast: 35 (35 to 40 is fine and does not impact gamma negatively)
Brightness: 0
Color: +3
Tint: -1
Sharpness: 9 (this is my first plasma)
Pure Cinema: Off
Text Optimization: Off
Intelligence: Off
DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 1
Color Space: 2
CTI: Off
3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Power Save Mode: Off
Orbiter: Mode 2
RGB Controls
R High -1
G High 1
B High 0
R Low -1
G Low 0
B Low 0
Color Management
R 0
Y +1
G -1
C 0
B 0
M 0
Gamma
10%R 0
10%G 0
10%B 0
20%R 0
20%G 0
20%B 0
30%R 0
30%G 0
30%B 0
40%R 0
40%G 0
40%B 0
50%R 0
50%G 0
50%B 0
60%R 0
60%G 0
60%B 0
70%R 0
70%G 0
70%B 0
80%R 0
80%G 0
80%B 0
90%R 0
90%G 0
90%B 0
The only complaint I have with this TV is the slightly undersaturated green and yellow. Unfortunately the CMS of the KRP while it allows to adjust color hues does not not offer controls for color satuations. Also, correcting the slight green hue inaccuracy involves adding more red to the gree color, which introduces undefeatable red push in the grey scale below 40$ stimulus.
The only way to obtain saturated greens and yellows was to switch to color Mode 1 and reduce color down to approimatively -8. This however means that other colors will be slightly oversaturated. Still, for people who like their colors to pop, this may be an option.
The CMS of the Samsung A956 (LED LCD) is more advanced and overall allows for slightly more accurate colors. White balance and dynamic range however are better on the Pioneer.
I did not spend a huge amount of time on the calibration since my set has only run for 25 hours. I will post updated results when the break-in period has expired.
Finally I would like to share a couple of calibration tips with both potential and existing owners:
- Decreasing the contrast from 40 to 35 or low usually means you end up decreasing the overall luminance and hence the green output is reduced (green is responsible for most of the luminance perception). In calibration terms this means the Green High setting should be increased by 1 or the Red/Blue High settings recuded by 1
- It is possible to improve white balance at low stimulous through selective use of the CMS system. The RGB Low settings can be a but drastic at times and it may be more efficient to adjust the color hues. For example, if you were trying to increase the amount of red at low stimulus only by a little margin, pushing the green color toward red by one pip may do the trick. This usually applies to all colors.
- The type of pattern you use (25%, 33%, 50%) will depend on the type of video material you are targetting. For DTV material with an abundancy of bright pictures, you may want to calibrate with 50% patterns in order to make sure your gamma will not clip too often. For Film viewing on the other hand, bright scenes will not be as frequent and therefore you may want to calibrate with 25% grey scale patterns
- You should chose the appropriate "Video Colour" parameter in the settings depending on the sources you are connecting to each input. This setting has an impact on the type of gamma that is being used. Set this wrong and you may never be able to come up with a flat gamma! If you are calibrating using a PC, you should be aware in the gamma differences between each video player and/or codec pack. In my case I had to use Video = Color 4 for Windows Media player and Auto for VLC.
- The individual gamma points should usually be moved in parallel for each color, as the gamma for each color channel is the same to start with. Disrupting this equilibrium means trouble. I would only use the gamma setting when trying to achieve a different picture feel than the tradional flat gamma. Some of the contrast enhancement settings actually do fancy things with your gamma curve, sometimes working against the natural tendancy of the display's gamma to dip at high stimulous. I haven't had time to do a lot of analysis at this point in time.
Admin Edit:
Hi, I added some line spacing for that last section, it makes it a little easier to read.. :D