I have been asked by Turbe to post my results here, as I've been posting over at AV Forums about some issues I'm having with my KRP-500M. Unfortunately, I've decided to return the set now so I'm not going to have it for much longer to perform additional tests, but wondered what your thoughts were anyway.
I'm expecting to box up the TV today to return it, so I had actually cleared my final calibration off the set last night, but I've done a quick calibration using only my CalMAN Chroma 5. (I also have an i1Pro which I prefer to use, but I didn't want to spend a lot of time with this and it's rather slow)
This is my PS3 hooked up to the TV via a DVDO EDGE. All settings on the EDGE are at 0 and input/output levels are correct etc. I have also done tests with the PS3 straight into the display, but there were no differences. The only reason it's going through the EDGE just now really is because I don't want to have to pull everything out again.
KRP-500M Calibration Report (http://sr-388.net/images/av/krp-500m/KRP-500M%20Report.pdf)
CalMAN Data File (http://sr-388.net/images/av/krp-500m/Pioneer%20KRP-500M.cdf)
Colour does seem to be quite high, but I have verified that this is correct using the blue-only mode on the monitor, and have checked for clipping.
Anyway, one of the main issues I've been having with all sources is that low-level shadow detail seems to be lost when the display is set up "properly" using test patterns, and I'm told this shouldn't be the case.
Test patterns indicate that brightness should be at +1 with all my sources, and going above that starts to raise the black level.
Going by actual picture content, however, suggests that brightness should be around +4 which raises the black level.
Taken from this shot near the end of Casino Royale on Blu-Ray:
http://sr-388.net/images/av/krp-500m/DSCF9176.jpg
These are three second exposures of the above image, as that captures all shadow detail the display is showing. This over-exposes the image a lot, but has to be done as a camera can't capture the full dynamic range of a display, and it's shadow detail that's important here.
Brightness at the "correct" setting of +1:
http://sr-388.net/images/av/krp-500m/DSCF9168.jpg
Very little detail on the suit, just a few marks which could be confused with noise.
Brightness at +4:
http://sr-388.net/images/av/krp-500m/DSCF9175.jpg
All the texture detail is now visible as it should be. (note: it doesn't actually look like this by eye, but is now visible)
And another from the intro of the film:
http://sr-388.net/images/av/krp-500m/DSCF9181.jpg http://sr-388.net/images/av/krp-500m/DSCF9182.jpg
(Note: ignore the faint + marks on the second image, I forgot to clear the image retention left from putting up a focus pattern briefly for my camera to focus on before taking the photo)
I have tried using the 9-point gamma controls to see if they helped with this, but the first point doesn't really have any effect on the low-end shadow detail, the only way to improve it is to raise brightness.
Doing so starts to "wash out" the image somewhat, so I found that using the 9-point controls allows you to keep brightness at this level while avoiding the "wash-out" and allowing for a smooth transition into black.
I'm told that it shouldn't be necessary to raise the brightness level like this though, and that the Kuros are supposed to be one of the best performers when it comes to shadow detail. Has anyone else experienced this with the Kuro monitors?
hariskar
12-23-2008, 02:58 AM
I am new in DIY calibration, but isn't Contrast 12 too low? I have it at 23 and brightness +1 http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157 and have been advised I could raise it till +33...
andrewfee
12-23-2008, 03:00 AM
I prefer to have a peak white level of 80cd/m˛ as I watch in a darkened room. With Pure mode that works out at 22 contrast, but ISF-Night was 12. (the ISF modes seem to be a lot brighter)
Turbe
12-23-2008, 10:13 AM
Yes, that Color is higher than I'm hearing from the Pros working on NA Elite Signatures (though their customer settings don't get published, I do get these settings from my conversations with them).
Now, I recently realized the KRP-M's are even more different than the Elite Signature Monitors with the addition of the audio circuitry.... the ISFccc Interfaces between the Signature Elite Monitors and the KRP-M's are the same, it's not clear on performance differences.
Thank you Andrew for posting this here.
EDIT: I sent an email/PM to a couple people to ask for Input... :D
Turbe
12-23-2008, 10:36 AM
Additional Info from our previous conversations:
Andrew, I just thought of something.. are you using the patterns (which are new) from the EDGE (obviously running the new firmware)?
I have used the EDGE patterns and patterns on the PS3 itself. As I have everything at 0 on the EDGE, there's no difference between hooking up directly and going through the EDGE. (my initial testing was the PS3 hooked up directly to the TV anyway — I only hooked it up through the EDGE yesterday to see how the 50Hz posterisation affected Blu-Ray)
"patterns on the PS3 itself"
What am I missing here, internal PS3 Patterns?
I've been wanting to get verifcation on the accuracy of the EDGE's patterns.. good time to ask Derek and others...
Andrew, have you tried creating the curved gamma settings? 2.1-2.2 at the 0-30 IRE end, and then from 30-100 IRE you want 2.4-2.5. Easily the best picture I've seen on this set... a huge improvement from Pure.
The lowest gamma point adjustable isn't low enough to reveal the low-end shadow detail that's being crushed, the only way to retrieve it is to raise brightness to around +4. With brightness raised, I then found I had to lower the gamma settings somewhat to stop the image appearing washed out.
I also found that going for a non-linear gamma response didn't work so well with the Pioneer's controls. (when I say "non-linear" I mean on a point-gamma chart/logarithmic view — obviously gamma is inherently non-linear)
That's pretty much the route to it. As you say the individual gamma for 0 is not on there, but I use the brightness control to get the 0 IRE point dead on (as accurately as my meter will let me, but also using visual guides i.e. test patterns with levels). Once absolute video black is dead on you can work upwards from the 40 IRE point to increase gamma to give the image much more pop, so as to prevent it looking washed out. Really then gives everything that elusive 3D feel everyone strives for.
Obviously the contrast control needs to be more or less spot on correct too firstly as the absolute white level.
The gamma point controls could probably do with some extra granularity to them... but with some fiddling you can get it very, very accurate... as Turbe is saying.
That's the problem though. Setting brighness so that video black is black results in the loss of low-level (presumably below 5%) shadow detail. You have to raise brightness higher to make it properly visible.
andrewfee
12-23-2008, 10:39 AM
I should clarify; +10 is what I arrived at previously, using the blue-only mode, not what I thought was best using the Chroma 5 for this calibration run. It is also what I arrived at using the i1Pro if I remember correctly, though I believe using a blue-only mode is the preferred method of setting colour when it is available?
It seemed very high to me, but did actually look as it should, and not oversaturated or clipping etc.
The set was collected this afternoon though (only got an email about it late in the morning) so I can't take any more meaurements/try anything out, but it would be interesting to hear what people think anyway.
D-Nice
12-23-2008, 10:57 AM
You guys have to realize that you are NOT suppose to see everything in the dark areas. You can get more details on any panel, regardless of black level, by raising the brightness. Just because you can see more stuff with a higher brightness setting does not make it right. The best DVD available to set the brightness control properly is GetGray. It's pluge pattern is by far the best. You might want to get that disc to see how your panel is handling 1 and 2% stimuli.
Also, your gamma @ 10% stimuli is MUCH lower compared to the other stimuli levels. You can fix that with the 9 point gamma controls.
I have been asked by Turbe to post my results here, as I've been posting over at AV Forums about some issues I'm having with my KRP-500M. Unfortunately, I've decided to return the set now so I'm not going to have it for much longer to perform additional tests, but wondered what your thoughts were anyway.
I'm expecting to box up the TV today to return it, so I had actually cleared my final calibration off the set last night, but I've done a quick calibration using only my CalMAN Chroma 5. (I also have an i1Pro which I prefer to use, but I didn't want to spend a lot of time with this and it's rather slow)
This is my PS3 hooked up to the TV via a DVDO EDGE. All settings on the EDGE are at 0 and input/output levels are correct etc. I have also done tests with the PS3 straight into the display, but there were no differences. The only reason it's going through the EDGE just now really is because I don't want to have to pull everything out again.
KRP-500M Calibration Report (http://sr-388.net/images/av/krp-500m/KRP-500M%20Report.pdf)
CalMAN Data File (http://sr-388.net/images/av/krp-500m/Pioneer%20KRP-500M.cdf)
Colour does seem to be quite high, but I have verified that this is correct using the blue-only mode on the monitor, and have checked for clipping.
Anyway, one of the main issues I've been having with all sources is that low-level shadow detail seems to be lost when the display is set up "properly" using test patterns, and I'm told this shouldn't be the case.
Test patterns indicate that brightness should be at +1 with all my sources, and going above that starts to raise the black level.
Going by actual picture content, however, suggests that brightness should be around +4 which raises the black level.
Taken from this shot near the end of Casino Royale on Blu-Ray:
These are three second exposures of the above image, as that captures all shadow detail the display is showing. This over-exposes the image a lot, but has to be done as a camera can't capture the full dynamic range of a display, and it's shadow detail that's important here.
Brightness at the "correct" setting of +1:
Very little detail on the suit, just a few marks which could be confused with noise.
Brightness at +4:
All the texture detail is now visible as it should be. (note: it doesn't actually look like this by eye, but is now visible)
And another from the intro of the film:
(Note: ignore the faint + marks on the second image, I forgot to clear the image retention left from putting up a focus pattern briefly for my camera to focus on before taking the photo)
I have tried using the 9-point gamma controls to see if they helped with this, but the first point doesn't really have any effect on the low-end shadow detail, the only way to improve it is to raise brightness.
Doing so starts to "wash out" the image somewhat, so I found that using the 9-point controls allows you to keep brightness at this level while avoiding the "wash-out" and allowing for a smooth transition into black.
I'm told that it shouldn't be necessary to raise the brightness level like this though, and that the Kuros are supposed to be one of the best performers when it comes to shadow detail. Has anyone else experienced this with the Kuro monitors?
D-Nice
12-23-2008, 10:59 AM
I believe using a blue-only mode is the preferred method of setting colour when it is available?Blue only mode is best for color saturation. It does nada for color lumiance. On the 9G Kuros, you need to setup the color per the luminance values not saturation.
Turbe
12-23-2008, 11:33 AM
Along with D-Nice, I asked/emailed a few others to look at this Thread and I want to personally thank them and D-Nice for taking time, it's greatly appreciated.
Here is what I got back from Jeff Meier / Forum: umr (permission to quote):
Shadow detail along with everything else on these displays can be nearly perfect. Once a person has decided they have a problem it is hard to change their mind. What they want is what they want generally whether it is correct or not. Without seeing his product in person it is impossible to say exactly what is going on.It could also be his DVDO that is wrong. I have seen some problems in their products test patterns in the past.
andrewfee
12-23-2008, 11:51 AM
You guys have to realize that you are NOT suppose to see everything in the dark areas. You can get more details on any panel, regardless of black level, by raising the brightness. Just because you can see more stuff with a higher brightness setting does not make it right. The best DVD available to set the brightness control properly is GetGray. It's pluge pattern is by far the best. You might want to get that disc to see how your panel is handling 1 and 2% stimuli.
When brightness was set to clip BTB, the low-level shadow detail (I'd estimate it to be below ≈5% grey) was technically visible (e.g. you could see it was not black) but individual steps (detail) were indistinguishable. Brightness had to be raised to +4 to make it visible as shown.
Just to be clear — this is not blacker-than-black information that I am showing being revealed in these photographs. If I toggle the display of BTB information on/off with the PS3 ("Super White") it made no difference and was all still visible.
Also, your gamma @ 10% stimuli is MUCH lower compared to the other stimuli levels. You can fix that with the 9 point gamma controls.
Thanks — this was just a quick calibration before boxing up the set. The problem is below 10% though, the 9-point gamma controls have no effect on it.
I did find that a flat 2.2 gamma did not transition into black very well though, it seemed too sudden, resulting in the appearance of dark spots, rather than things blending smoothly into black.
Blue only mode is best for color saturation. It does nada for color lumiance. On the 9G Kuros, you need to setup the color per the luminance values not saturation.
So what is the point of the blue-only mode on the monitor if there is no saturation control on the display? (I arrived at the same setting using my i1Pro to measure luminance as well)
EDIT: While I no longer have the KRP, the EDGE test patterns have me set brightness to the same level as GetGray does on my current display.
D-Nice
12-23-2008, 12:54 PM
When brightness was set to clip BTB, the low-level shadow detail (I'd estimate it to be below ≈5% grey) was technically visible (e.g. you could see it was not black) but individual steps (detail) were indistinguishable. Brightness had to be raised to +4 to make it visible as shown.With the GetGray pluge pattern you should be able to dicern a difference between black, 1% above black and 2% above black. If 1 or 2% above black is not visible, your brightness level is improperly setup.
On the US models, that will always be a brightness setting between -1 and +1.
Just to be clear — this is not blacker-than-black information that I am showing being revealed in these photographs. If I toggle the display of BTB information on/off with the PS3 ("Super White") it made no difference and was all still visible.Were you using RGB limited of RGB full?
So what is the point of the blue-only mode on the monitor if there is no saturation control on the display? (I arrived at the same setting using my i1Pro to measure luminance as well)Good question and should be addressed to Pioneer as the color control modifies saturation and lightness.
andrewfee
12-23-2008, 01:36 PM
With the GetGray pluge pattern you should be able to dicern a difference between black, 1% above black and 2% above black. If 1 or 2% above black is not visible, your brightness level is improperly setup.
On the US models, that will always be a brightness setting between -1 and +1.
The "correct" setting was +1 brightness, but it did not show this shadow detail which was above black until +4.
Were you using RGB limited of RGB full?I think my PS3 was set to limited, but it outputs YCC with BD/DVD anyway, as either RGB setting clips BTB/WTW
I have to say, I'm now regretting having rushed out a calibration before boxing this up, as it was calibrated much better previously. (I don't think I saved the data though—I'll have to check my other Windows installation) Colour definitely is too high if you go by the readings the Chroma 5 took, but red was spot-on when measured with the i1Pro at that setting previously. (everything was essentially shifted down by however much it looks like red is too high on the luminance chart in the report)
I'm also not sure the gamma controls would have helped at 10% grey — I tried using them on 90 and it shifted far too much in the opposite direction, making it further off target.
D-Nice
12-23-2008, 01:52 PM
The "correct" setting was +1 brightness, but it did not show this shadow detail which was above black until +4.If +1 properly showed 1 and 2% above black on the pluge pattern, your panel was setup correctly and was providing you with the proper shadow detail. Anything beyond that would be a personal preference.
andrewfee
12-23-2008, 10:36 PM
If +1 properly showed 1 and 2% above black on the pluge pattern, your panel was setup correctly and was providing you with the proper shadow detail. Anything beyond that would be a personal preference.
What I was finding is that while 1% and 2% grey were technically distinguishable as being above black, they were extremely dark and most steps of gradation close to black were simply being blended together which resulted in "black spots" on the image as there was no real transition into black. Hard to capture, but this image shows it off somewhat:
http://sr-388.net/images/av/krp-500m/DSCF9094.jpg
Look at the lower-left in particular. There was actually information above black there, but it was all just blended together into a black spot rather than there being a smooth transition into black.
Raising brightness up allowed you to see the individual steps in brightness, which shows as additional shadow detail.
Again, this is all above-black information, I'm not talking about revealing below-black information that should not be seen.
The gamma controls had no effect on this, as it is below the range of the first point. (I had hoped that raising up the first point would improve the shadow detail but it didn't, even at +5)
D-Nice
12-27-2008, 09:28 AM
What I was finding is that while 1% and 2% grey were technically distinguishable as being above black, they were extremely dark and most steps of gradation close to black were simply being blended together which resulted in "black spots" on the image as there was no real transition into black. Hard to capture, but this image shows it off somewhat:
Look at the lower-left in particular. There was actually information above black there, but it was all just blended together into a black spot rather than there being a smooth transition into black.
Raising brightness up allowed you to see the individual steps in brightness, which shows as additional shadow detail.
Again, this is all above-black information, I'm not talking about revealing below-black information that should not be seen.
The gamma controls had no effect on this, as it is below the range of the first point. (I had hoped that raising up the first point would improve the shadow detail but it didn't, even at +5)If 1 and 2% above black is visible (properly setup), your display is properly setup. Now, if a DVD was mastered wrong, then you may have to play with the brightness setting. Casino Royal was properly mastered per the standards so if the pluge pattern has your brightness at +1, you are seeing exactly what you are suppose to see.
If you still doubt what I am saying, find a copy of Casino Royal that was mastered to PC RGB and do a comparison.
eiren
01-05-2009, 04:32 AM
Right, I'm here... thanks Turbe!
I have the 60" version of the M, so my findings may be slightly different to Andrew... but I am also running via a DVDO EDGE.
I'm not having the same problems as Andrew though, as Turbe posted above, I've set my own custom gamma curve so that everything below 30 IRE is at 2.2 gamma, and then everything above is at 2.5 gamma.
I am seeing some posterisation when viewing 50Hz material though, as Andrew found. Particularly evident viewing a grey scale ramp, but not so bad when watching actual every day material.
It's a shame Andrew's sent his screen back, as I think he could definitely get far better results with some more tweaking.
Let me get my bearings on these forums and figure out what I am supposed to post up here.
andrewfee
01-05-2009, 06:29 AM
I did have much better results in the conditions I was actually viewing in, though a lot of the time I spent was simply in Pure mode with brightness/contrast, enhancer/drive mode tweaks. I had reset the display quite a number of times to make sure things were ok, and to ensure that it wasn't my calibration that was causing the posterisation or lack of shadow detail etc.
I'm having problems loading up my "final" calibration results in Pure mode, but here's one that was close, I believe. (only have greyscale though)
http://sr-388.net/images/av/krp-500m/i1Pro.pdf
The calibration posted here initially was a rushed one in the ISF mode prior to the set being boxed up (within about 30 minutes of taking those readings it was boxed up, iirc) as Turbe had asked me to post a report taken from the ISF modes here. I had cleared off my actual calibration the night before. (had put the TV back to its factory state as it was being returned)
Personally, I found ControlCAL slow and awkward to use compared to calibrating in Pure mode. I really wish Pioneer would offer the full picture controls in the regular menus.
There are other displays with 9-point gamma and/or a full CMS in the menus, why not the Pioneers?
Perhaps lock it out like the manual colour temperature on the TVs (e.g. select manual and hold down ok for 3 secs) or have something similar to entering integrator mode.
I could see the benefit of using something like ControlCAL if it were integrated with software like CalMAN for automated calibration though.
Turbe
01-05-2009, 10:22 AM
,
Personally, I found ControlCAL slow and awkward to use compared to calibrating in Pure mode.
A couple other Users have stated this as well... of course there is setup but once setup, navigating onscreen vs the Display's menus should be faster. In fact, some die hard Professionals who swore they would never use a serial interface changed their attitude once they did a couple calibrations with ControlCAL. Many Professionals report that it takes less time when you compare calibrating PURE to one ISFccc Memory. Obviously, many customers have more then one ISFccc memory activated and calibrated. If you were constantly doing calibrations, I'm confident you would experience the time benefit. This the reason many of them are asking for a Display Profile for PURE.
To be fair, Andrew did spend very limited time with ControlCAL and the ISFccc Interface.
Once additional features and changes are made to ControlCAL (i.e. the ability to save/load Settings to your HD, copy between ISFccc Memories and combining P1 and P2 Profiles into memory at the same time with the new ControlCAL tabbed Interface - there will be additional time savings and conveniences.
:thumbsup:
petmic10
01-05-2009, 04:06 PM
,
Once additional features and changes are made to ControlCAL (i.e. the ability to save/load Settings to your HD, copy between ISFccc Memories and combining P1 and P2 Profiles into memory at the same time with the new ControlCAL tabbed Interface - there will be additional time savings and conveniences.
:thumbsup:
Can't wait for the new features.:clap:
TopperMcFly
03-15-2009, 08:47 AM
Are we talking about ISFccc on a North American version of the M? I read this was not available on the US M but I am praying that is incorrect. Anyone?
Turbe
03-15-2009, 11:10 AM
No, Andrew had a European KRP-M.. :devil:
nightrhyme
04-18-2009, 06:53 PM
Just found this thread which seems to focus on exactly my problem: Black crush.
I want to make a skewed gamma curve. I understand this i possible using controlCal. Something like adjusting values below -30 IRE.
I have been searching and searching for screenshots of controlCal showing these settings but found none ??
Hope someone here can help me figure out which controls/parameters to manipulate to achieve this ?
Basically I want existing "pure" settings coupled with this skewed gamma curve to show more shadow detail without destroying black level.
Thanx in advance
- NightRhyme
Turbe
04-18-2009, 09:01 PM
Hi nightrhyme, :hiya:
Do you have a North American KRP-M or one from outside of NA?
The people that are doing that with the gamma are using the ISFccc Interface's 9 Point Gamma Controls but the NA KRP-M's don't have the ISFccc Interface.
nightrhyme
04-18-2009, 09:20 PM
Hi nightrhyme, :hiya:
Do you have a North American KRP-M or one from outside of NA?
The people that are doing that with the gamma are using the ISFccc Interface's 9 Point Gamma Controls but the NA KRP-M's don't have the ISFccc Interface.
That would be a Krp-500m from outside NA. I'm from Europe :hiya:
I'm going to need a little more help than: ISFccc Interface's 9 Point Gamma Controls :o
There are 9 Gamma Points (3 Channels for each Gamma Points 1-9 / "R G B") - the Pic showing RGB Controls for Gamma Point 1.
If you are asking for a screenshot of the settings for what you want, I don't believe anyone that doesn't use a flat gamma has posted their settings yet (different Gamma on the low end than on the high end).
You could get a meter and use CalMAN or ColorHCFR and do a DIY Calibration :D
PaulB
04-19-2009, 01:29 AM
Nightrhyme and I may very well have the exact same issue - the gamma on my 500M starts at about 1.8 and curves down to below 1 at 60ire. No idea why this is happening, contrast is at 30, brightness at +1, gamma on 3, on Pure with recommended settings.
No idea whats going on here (see attachments below). Will ControlCal correct a gamma deviation such as this? I have ControlCal but am loathe to use it in this instance, I don't mind tweeking but this looks like the Kuro isn't doing what it should and I don't want to mess things up if I need to return the Kuro.
There are 9 Gamma Points (3 Channels for each Gamma Points 1-9 / "R G B") - the Pic showing RGB Controls for Gamma Point 1.
If you are asking for a screenshot of the settings for what you want, I don't believe anyone that doesn't use a flat gamma has posted their settings yet (different Gamma on the low end than on the high end).
You could get a meter and use CalMAN or ColorHCFR and do a DIY Calibration :D
So to adjust gamma in the range 0 - 30IRE I would have to adjust RGB gamma point 1 :confused:
I might just buy a cable and give it a try. I will not be buying calibration equipment rather contact a proff ISF calibrator and ask if he can fix my problem.
I wish I had some measuring equipment to see if I have the same curve as PaulB
For what it's worth I was just by a friends house who owns a KRP-500A.
His set is exactly like mine :confused:
Turbe
04-19-2009, 09:07 PM
What meter are you using and how old is the meter?
Night, IRE will basically match up with the Gamma Point 1 - 10 IRE, 9 - 90 IRE
PaulB
04-19-2009, 11:04 PM
Its a DTP94, about 2 years old. I measured an LCD that I have to double check the meter and the LCD's gamma was (annoyingly) fine at roughly 2.2 once calibrated.
Frustrating to say the least :mad:
Thanks,
Paul
mlaun
04-21-2009, 07:00 AM
@PaulB,
in pure mode try setting gamma to '2'
PaulB
04-21-2009, 09:36 AM
Thanks guys.
Well, I think I've resolved this. I did a full 11-point IRE measurements run using Calman yesterday and lo and behold I got the "normal" results i.e. 2.2 gamma! When I did the original measurements run, I only used a 2-points (30 and 80)and got a gamma of 1.9 and below as shown in the pdf attachments in my post above - weird.
HCFR (which I used to check the Calman results) was also showing thesame incorrect gamma results obtained by the two point Calman run but I suspect that a setting was wrong somewhere in HCFR or the auto Video Level in the Kuro did'nt kick in or something.
Strange, I can duplicate the Calman results so I wonder if its a bug or something?
Thank the maker that the Kuro's ok, didn't want to go through the hassle of having to return it or something.
Now, just need to stop tweaking and watch some movies!
:thumbsup:
nightrhyme
04-21-2009, 11:51 AM
Thanks guys.
Well, I think I've resolved this. I did a full 11-point IRE measurements run using Calman yesterday and lo and behold I got the "normal" results i.e. 2.2 gamma! When I did the original measurements run, I only used a 2-points (30 and 80)and got a gamma of 1.9 and below as shown in the pdf attachments in my post above - weird.
HCFR (which I used to check the Calman results) was also showing thesame incorrect gamma results obtained by the two point Calman run but I suspect that a setting was wrong somewhere in HCFR or the auto Video Level in the Kuro did'nt kick in or something.
Strange, I can duplicate the Calman results so I wonder if its a bug or something?
Thank the maker that the Kuro's ok, didn't want to go through the hassle of having to return it or something.
Now, just need to stop tweaking and watch some movies!
:thumbsup:
Hi PaulB
Good to hear everything is ok after all :)
Wanted to know if you still plan to try and remedy the fact that you can't see below RGB(0,0,5) ?
If you do I would sure love your ControlCal settings used ;)
Turbe
04-21-2009, 11:54 AM
You can see how to setup ColorHCFR: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=212
Turbe
04-21-2009, 12:53 PM
Just found this thread which seems to focus on exactly my problem: Black crush.
I want to make a skewed gamma curve. I understand this i possible using controlCal. Something like adjusting values below -30 IRE.
I have been searching and searching for screenshots of controlCal showing these settings but found none ??
Hope someone here can help me figure out which controls/parameters to manipulate to achieve this ?
Basically I want existing "pure" settings coupled with this skewed gamma curve to show more shadow detail without destroying black level.
Thanx in advance
- NightRhyme
I didn't realize someone posted some 9 Point Gamma settings for what you may be interested in (though for the NA Signature Elite Monitor).
The Thread is here: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223
nightrhyme
04-21-2009, 01:32 PM
I didn't realize someone posted some 9 Point Gamma settings for what you may be interested in (though for the NA Signature Elite Monitor).
The Thread is here: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223
Thank you very much ;)
Much difference between NA Signature Elite Monitor and KRP-500M ?
ShoeHorn
04-27-2009, 07:02 PM
pleased to say Controlcal works well on my aussie KRP 500m
If you have a Mac and and dont know much about computers , get someone else to install it though
Once installed it works like a breeze. ISF using D-Nice's settings, to my eyes, looked better than PURE though i dont know why.
and i cheated and left sharpness at zero rather than -15 with enhancer mode at 1 (sharpness -15 i suppose is more accurate but looked soft for want of a better word)
Now for the US dollar to crash so we can all afford a Calman & Eye1 pro :thumbup:
