calzone
01-23-2009, 08:34 AM
Hello - I just installed the KRP500A UK version (equivalent to elite Pro 111FD?) and haven't yet got that many hours on it so haven't delved into calibration yet. I have it running in Pure mode using settings from avforums.com, working on the basis that these screens are considered to be much more consistent out of the box than other brands and so using another's settings might not be such a bad idea.
I will probably venture into using controlcal and ISF modes shortly. For now I find the Pure mode a touch dark (cont 32 and brightness +3) and maybe a touch green to the naked eye, though have mostly watched 1080i satellite stuff for now (acutally latest series of 24 mainly, and suspect its meant to be dark and green!!!). Dont get me wrong, there's something about the picture that looks amazing even so, I guess I'd call it filmic, and that's compared to my samsung LED LCD which is superb.
Given my perception that its a little dark I was wondering how it is that the ISF modes allow the screen max limunance to go up? Does the ISF mode cause the TV to operate in a slightly different way, or does it unlock range that is prohibited in non-ISF modes? In other words, does it booost the voltage for whites at the same contrast setting in ISF mode? Or is it just that because it allows a better gamma profile it can reach higher levels without clipping?
Also, I note advice to limit contrast setting to 40 or lower. Is this a function of light output or a function of clipping? For those who've achieved ftL readings above 50ftL, is this at the expense of shorter panel life, or did they go above 40 on the contrast setting?
In terms of workflow, general view seems to be set contrast for max output on 100% whites, then brightness (best set at 0.65% on 10%IRE of Y for 100%IRE, or best done using PLUGE bars for these screens?). Is it best to set contrast for a particular ftL (higher for bright rooms, lower for dark rooms), then check there's no clipping and check that contrast is lower than 40? Or is this an iterative thing where you discover there's a max setting for which you can still get flat greyscale and gamma curves?
I use the EyeOne Display2 - can't really justify the i1 pro. Is it accurate enough to reliably measure 0.65% of Y at 10% IRE? When calibrating it the instructions just say put it on a flat surface - but should I put it on a flat black surface and cover it with balck cloth to avoid ambient light getting in?
Realise this is lots of questions, but its a bug this calibration for what my wife would describe as weirdos like me.
Cheers,
Calzone
I will probably venture into using controlcal and ISF modes shortly. For now I find the Pure mode a touch dark (cont 32 and brightness +3) and maybe a touch green to the naked eye, though have mostly watched 1080i satellite stuff for now (acutally latest series of 24 mainly, and suspect its meant to be dark and green!!!). Dont get me wrong, there's something about the picture that looks amazing even so, I guess I'd call it filmic, and that's compared to my samsung LED LCD which is superb.
Given my perception that its a little dark I was wondering how it is that the ISF modes allow the screen max limunance to go up? Does the ISF mode cause the TV to operate in a slightly different way, or does it unlock range that is prohibited in non-ISF modes? In other words, does it booost the voltage for whites at the same contrast setting in ISF mode? Or is it just that because it allows a better gamma profile it can reach higher levels without clipping?
Also, I note advice to limit contrast setting to 40 or lower. Is this a function of light output or a function of clipping? For those who've achieved ftL readings above 50ftL, is this at the expense of shorter panel life, or did they go above 40 on the contrast setting?
In terms of workflow, general view seems to be set contrast for max output on 100% whites, then brightness (best set at 0.65% on 10%IRE of Y for 100%IRE, or best done using PLUGE bars for these screens?). Is it best to set contrast for a particular ftL (higher for bright rooms, lower for dark rooms), then check there's no clipping and check that contrast is lower than 40? Or is this an iterative thing where you discover there's a max setting for which you can still get flat greyscale and gamma curves?
I use the EyeOne Display2 - can't really justify the i1 pro. Is it accurate enough to reliably measure 0.65% of Y at 10% IRE? When calibrating it the instructions just say put it on a flat surface - but should I put it on a flat black surface and cover it with balck cloth to avoid ambient light getting in?
Realise this is lots of questions, but its a bug this calibration for what my wife would describe as weirdos like me.
Cheers,
Calzone