edmond35
04-22-2009, 09:14 PM
Last week I started calibrating my PDP-LX509A display. This is still work in progress, but here are my initial findings.
I am using Calman with a Chroma-5 meter, and ControlCal to get access to the SM. I have used the excellent AVCHD v1.2 DVD for calibration patterns, which are customised to work with Calman in-built cal flows.
ControlCal is very easy to use (but you have to follow the use instructions to the dot!!!) It takes a bit to get acustomed to this (I usually don't bother with the user manual, and I had to this time), but once you get the hang of it, it works great. The most interesting feature is that it seems that you get higher luminance values (for the same contrast settings) via the SM menu, compared to the original modes available (Movie mode for example, is where I have noticed that).
Calman is also a great piece of software: quite easy to use, lots of features, (I have the standard or home version), great in-built reports and calibration flows, etc.
Both Calman and ControlCal have very good support, with friendly and fast followup, a pleasure to deal with!
But enough re the software, etc. After two evenings 'at the helm', and comparing how various reference settings measure on my display, I arrived at the conclusion that the best references for my model are the ones posted by D-Nice for Pro-111FD. They do require tweaking subsequently (meter differences, model differences, likely both) but is better to start from them rather than using display's default values for Colour, Colour Temp and CMS.
I found that at least in my case the best flow (by best I mean requiring the least tweaking steps) is as follows:
1. Set Contrast / Brightness
2. Roughly Fix grayscale - use only two steps (20% and 80% gray windows) at this stage, only rough adjustment
3. Work on gamut (start with setting the Red exactly where it should be - by using the overall Color setting to move Red where it should be, if necessary); and follow with Y, G, etc (in this order) until getting back to Red
4. Once the Gamut is done, need to go back to Grayscale adjustments - is likely that this is 'out of whack' and needs to start again with both the 80% and than 20%, and again 80% and 20% until the RGB balance is OK at each point and have the right Grayscale
5. Back to Gamut - to fine tune any changes due to the above grayscale adjustment
6. I run a final 11 point Grayscale measurement.
That's about it. If it looks as a lot of work, ... indeed it is!
I am curious on any of the pro's opinion on the flow above... I may not be doing this properly, and this may be the reason I am not 100% happy with the Gamut (see below).
To this stage I have got only to calibrating settings appropriate for the Night modes. These are the settings (require ContolCal!). The Calman results are attached.
Picture Settings:
AV Selection: ISF-Night
Contrast: 35 Note: Is a higher value than usually used (around 18 to 27) but this to suit my room conditions and also a personal preference.
Brightness: 0
Color: +3
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -10
Pure Cinema: 2 (Advance)
Black Level: 0 (Off)
CTI: 0 (Off)
Color Space: 2
Color Temp: 6 (Manual)
ACL: 0 (Off)
3DYC: 2 (Mid)
I-P Mode: 2
Text Optimization: 0 (Off)
Intelligent Mode: 0 (Off)
DRE Picture: 0 (Off)
Enhancer Mode: 1
Block NR: 0 (Off)
3DNR: 0 (Off)
Field NR: 0 (Off)
Mosquito NR: 0 (Off)
Power Save Mode: Off
Orbiter: Mode 2
RGB Controls
R High: -6
G High: 2
B High: 3
R Low: -2
G Low: 0
B Low: 0
Color Management
R: +1
Y: +2
G: +1
C: 0
B: +5
M:-2
Gamma
All "Zero".
As you will see from the Calman attachments below, the Gamut (the G and the B in it) require a bit more tweaking, but I just couldn't figure out yet how to do that - no matter what I do it looks that I cannot move G higher up into the 'square' and B down and a bit back - into its own square. Also the Blue Luminance and Blue Delta E (1994) could be better - but right now I don't know how to do that.
I would appreciate any help with that.
I'll post more if I find out how.
I am using Calman with a Chroma-5 meter, and ControlCal to get access to the SM. I have used the excellent AVCHD v1.2 DVD for calibration patterns, which are customised to work with Calman in-built cal flows.
ControlCal is very easy to use (but you have to follow the use instructions to the dot!!!) It takes a bit to get acustomed to this (I usually don't bother with the user manual, and I had to this time), but once you get the hang of it, it works great. The most interesting feature is that it seems that you get higher luminance values (for the same contrast settings) via the SM menu, compared to the original modes available (Movie mode for example, is where I have noticed that).
Calman is also a great piece of software: quite easy to use, lots of features, (I have the standard or home version), great in-built reports and calibration flows, etc.
Both Calman and ControlCal have very good support, with friendly and fast followup, a pleasure to deal with!
But enough re the software, etc. After two evenings 'at the helm', and comparing how various reference settings measure on my display, I arrived at the conclusion that the best references for my model are the ones posted by D-Nice for Pro-111FD. They do require tweaking subsequently (meter differences, model differences, likely both) but is better to start from them rather than using display's default values for Colour, Colour Temp and CMS.
I found that at least in my case the best flow (by best I mean requiring the least tweaking steps) is as follows:
1. Set Contrast / Brightness
2. Roughly Fix grayscale - use only two steps (20% and 80% gray windows) at this stage, only rough adjustment
3. Work on gamut (start with setting the Red exactly where it should be - by using the overall Color setting to move Red where it should be, if necessary); and follow with Y, G, etc (in this order) until getting back to Red
4. Once the Gamut is done, need to go back to Grayscale adjustments - is likely that this is 'out of whack' and needs to start again with both the 80% and than 20%, and again 80% and 20% until the RGB balance is OK at each point and have the right Grayscale
5. Back to Gamut - to fine tune any changes due to the above grayscale adjustment
6. I run a final 11 point Grayscale measurement.
That's about it. If it looks as a lot of work, ... indeed it is!
I am curious on any of the pro's opinion on the flow above... I may not be doing this properly, and this may be the reason I am not 100% happy with the Gamut (see below).
To this stage I have got only to calibrating settings appropriate for the Night modes. These are the settings (require ContolCal!). The Calman results are attached.
Picture Settings:
AV Selection: ISF-Night
Contrast: 35 Note: Is a higher value than usually used (around 18 to 27) but this to suit my room conditions and also a personal preference.
Brightness: 0
Color: +3
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -10
Pure Cinema: 2 (Advance)
Black Level: 0 (Off)
CTI: 0 (Off)
Color Space: 2
Color Temp: 6 (Manual)
ACL: 0 (Off)
3DYC: 2 (Mid)
I-P Mode: 2
Text Optimization: 0 (Off)
Intelligent Mode: 0 (Off)
DRE Picture: 0 (Off)
Enhancer Mode: 1
Block NR: 0 (Off)
3DNR: 0 (Off)
Field NR: 0 (Off)
Mosquito NR: 0 (Off)
Power Save Mode: Off
Orbiter: Mode 2
RGB Controls
R High: -6
G High: 2
B High: 3
R Low: -2
G Low: 0
B Low: 0
Color Management
R: +1
Y: +2
G: +1
C: 0
B: +5
M:-2
Gamma
All "Zero".
As you will see from the Calman attachments below, the Gamut (the G and the B in it) require a bit more tweaking, but I just couldn't figure out yet how to do that - no matter what I do it looks that I cannot move G higher up into the 'square' and B down and a bit back - into its own square. Also the Blue Luminance and Blue Delta E (1994) could be better - but right now I don't know how to do that.
I would appreciate any help with that.
I'll post more if I find out how.