voyager6
10-02-2009, 12:29 AM
Take them for what they are worth! Of course ControlCal was used to make the ISF-Day settings.
Pioneer Elite PRO-151FD ISF-Day Picture Settings (2009 "Plus Red & Green with Gamma Adjustment")
AV Selection: ISF-Day
Contrast: 32 -> 40 ftL
Brightness: 0
Color: +3
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -15
Pure Cinema: 2 (Advance)
Black Level: 0 (Off)
CTI: 0 (Off)
Color Space: 2
Color Temp: 6 (Manual)
ACL: 0 (Off)
3DYC: 0 (Off)
I-P Mode: 2
Text Optimization: 0 (Off)
Intelligent Mode: 0 (Off)
DRE Picture: 0 (Off)
Enhancer Mode: 1
Block NR: 0 (Off)
3DNR: 0 (Off)
Field NR: 0 (Off)
Mosquito NR: 0 (Off)
Power Save Mode: Off
Orbiter: Mode 2
Color Temp Manual Controls
RH: +2 GH: +2 BH: +6
RL: +2 GL: -1 BL: +2
CMS Controls
R: 0 Y: +2 G: -1
C: -1 B: 0 M: 0
Gamma R G B
10% (1) 0 0 0
20% (2) 0 0 0
30% (3) 0 0 0
40% (4) -1 -1 -1
50% (5) -1 -1 -1
60% (6) -1 -1 -1
70% (7) -1 -1 -1
80% (8) -1 -1 -1
90% (9) -1 -1 -1
Meter: EyeOne Pro
Gamma Notes:
To paraphrase Lightning McQueen from the movie Cars, "Yes, and if you too, use a spectrophotometer and have an insane amount of luck, you too can have your TV look like a real pro calibrated it! Ka-Chow!" Cars is one of my test movies that I run after each calibration. It is getting to me.
This is one of the Feb 2009 TVs with weird gamma. I've had the TV for about six weeks and have calibrated it about 10 times. I have had better gray scale than this, better luminance tracking, but always the weird gamma. I had not messed with the gamma controls until yesterday. TV has 240 hours on it.
I was always unhappy with the picture. Flesh tones varied too much from scene to scene, many commercials had a varying yellow/brown sepia tone. Dark reds looked like brown. I just couldn't stand it. So last night, I spent four hours learning how the 2009 PRO-151FD gamma adjustment is made and its importance on the picture.
My original Gamma was 2.4+ at 10%, then dropped to 2.2 at 50%, with a pronounced dip at 50% that wasn't at 40% or 60%, then dropped to about 2.0 at 90%. This crushed blacks and washed out whites and the funky dip at 50 really bothered me.
I first used the 9 point gamma control at the top, trying to fix the 50 percent dip on up. The problem is that once you start making changes, it continues to affect the next higher intensity level. Adjusting the gamma above 50% is tough with the controls. Red, Green and Blue tend to diverge in gamma significantly and affect RGB tracking and the luminance curves. I gave up on using the gamma controls at the upper end of the stimulus scale.
I created a gamma spreadsheet and looked at calculated numbers from 10 to 90 for gamma from 2.0 to 2.45. I noticed that in all cases, as the gamma number goes up, the Y (luminance) value at the point goes down. So looking at my original gamma curve, I had to push the gamma up from 50% to 90%, which meant that I had to darken the readings from 50% to 90% relative to 100%.
Since the RGB gamma controls were too coarse and increasing gamma mid scale had major impact on the end scale, I looked at the luminance curve and decided that if I could increase the slope above 50%, the gamma would go up. I decided to increase Rhigh, GHigh, and Bhigh until the upper gamma scale was flat. It took about three attempts, but the RGB High Controls listed above are about 2 each higher than my original calibration. That is why my contrast is lower than you might expect, as I boosted contrast by adjusting the high controls.
Note that you can get side-tracked by the RGB tracking chart. All it does is normalize each color's relative intensity level against each other for a particular stimulus level. It does nothing to tell you that the correct light output levels are being achieved. You need the gamma chart for that. The luminance curve can be misleading because of the logarithmic nature of the curve, especially at low stimulus levels, large errors in gamma will track the lower luminance curve quite well.
The nice side effect of raising RGB High controls was that the dip at 50% seemed to disappear. So I only had to worry about lowering the gamma number (increasing brightness) from 10% to 40% stimulus. Boosting the low controls did not have quite the same effect as the high controls. However, it did help make red and blue tracks more stable below 30 percent. At lower levels, the red and blue tracks tended to jump around at the slightest change in the high/low controls.
I suppose I could have tried increasing brightness, but I wanted to keep the Kuro Black. So I went back to the Gamma Controls. As you see above, a 0 for 10%, 20% and 30% percent flattened (brightened) the 10% to 50% stimulus part of the curve and created a virtually flat gamma curve.
End Result: I finally have the picture that I wanted. I am seeing fantastic detail, especially in shadows, the colors are great and I am not annoyed with the overall color shifts that I was seeing (on the same channel, during commercials, etc.) and I am not seeing washed out whites and bright colors.
After getting gamma flat, I rechecked the gray scale and color gamut and made minor tweaks. I rechecked the gamma and left it as it was.
Anyway, I hope this helps. The pros will probably criticize my techniques and rationale, but there hasn't been many (if any) 2009 calibration reports for the PRO-151FD.
Pioneer Elite PRO-151FD ISF-Day Picture Settings (2009 "Plus Red & Green with Gamma Adjustment")
AV Selection: ISF-Day
Contrast: 32 -> 40 ftL
Brightness: 0
Color: +3
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -15
Pure Cinema: 2 (Advance)
Black Level: 0 (Off)
CTI: 0 (Off)
Color Space: 2
Color Temp: 6 (Manual)
ACL: 0 (Off)
3DYC: 0 (Off)
I-P Mode: 2
Text Optimization: 0 (Off)
Intelligent Mode: 0 (Off)
DRE Picture: 0 (Off)
Enhancer Mode: 1
Block NR: 0 (Off)
3DNR: 0 (Off)
Field NR: 0 (Off)
Mosquito NR: 0 (Off)
Power Save Mode: Off
Orbiter: Mode 2
Color Temp Manual Controls
RH: +2 GH: +2 BH: +6
RL: +2 GL: -1 BL: +2
CMS Controls
R: 0 Y: +2 G: -1
C: -1 B: 0 M: 0
Gamma R G B
10% (1) 0 0 0
20% (2) 0 0 0
30% (3) 0 0 0
40% (4) -1 -1 -1
50% (5) -1 -1 -1
60% (6) -1 -1 -1
70% (7) -1 -1 -1
80% (8) -1 -1 -1
90% (9) -1 -1 -1
Meter: EyeOne Pro
Gamma Notes:
To paraphrase Lightning McQueen from the movie Cars, "Yes, and if you too, use a spectrophotometer and have an insane amount of luck, you too can have your TV look like a real pro calibrated it! Ka-Chow!" Cars is one of my test movies that I run after each calibration. It is getting to me.
This is one of the Feb 2009 TVs with weird gamma. I've had the TV for about six weeks and have calibrated it about 10 times. I have had better gray scale than this, better luminance tracking, but always the weird gamma. I had not messed with the gamma controls until yesterday. TV has 240 hours on it.
I was always unhappy with the picture. Flesh tones varied too much from scene to scene, many commercials had a varying yellow/brown sepia tone. Dark reds looked like brown. I just couldn't stand it. So last night, I spent four hours learning how the 2009 PRO-151FD gamma adjustment is made and its importance on the picture.
My original Gamma was 2.4+ at 10%, then dropped to 2.2 at 50%, with a pronounced dip at 50% that wasn't at 40% or 60%, then dropped to about 2.0 at 90%. This crushed blacks and washed out whites and the funky dip at 50 really bothered me.
I first used the 9 point gamma control at the top, trying to fix the 50 percent dip on up. The problem is that once you start making changes, it continues to affect the next higher intensity level. Adjusting the gamma above 50% is tough with the controls. Red, Green and Blue tend to diverge in gamma significantly and affect RGB tracking and the luminance curves. I gave up on using the gamma controls at the upper end of the stimulus scale.
I created a gamma spreadsheet and looked at calculated numbers from 10 to 90 for gamma from 2.0 to 2.45. I noticed that in all cases, as the gamma number goes up, the Y (luminance) value at the point goes down. So looking at my original gamma curve, I had to push the gamma up from 50% to 90%, which meant that I had to darken the readings from 50% to 90% relative to 100%.
Since the RGB gamma controls were too coarse and increasing gamma mid scale had major impact on the end scale, I looked at the luminance curve and decided that if I could increase the slope above 50%, the gamma would go up. I decided to increase Rhigh, GHigh, and Bhigh until the upper gamma scale was flat. It took about three attempts, but the RGB High Controls listed above are about 2 each higher than my original calibration. That is why my contrast is lower than you might expect, as I boosted contrast by adjusting the high controls.
Note that you can get side-tracked by the RGB tracking chart. All it does is normalize each color's relative intensity level against each other for a particular stimulus level. It does nothing to tell you that the correct light output levels are being achieved. You need the gamma chart for that. The luminance curve can be misleading because of the logarithmic nature of the curve, especially at low stimulus levels, large errors in gamma will track the lower luminance curve quite well.
The nice side effect of raising RGB High controls was that the dip at 50% seemed to disappear. So I only had to worry about lowering the gamma number (increasing brightness) from 10% to 40% stimulus. Boosting the low controls did not have quite the same effect as the high controls. However, it did help make red and blue tracks more stable below 30 percent. At lower levels, the red and blue tracks tended to jump around at the slightest change in the high/low controls.
I suppose I could have tried increasing brightness, but I wanted to keep the Kuro Black. So I went back to the Gamma Controls. As you see above, a 0 for 10%, 20% and 30% percent flattened (brightened) the 10% to 50% stimulus part of the curve and created a virtually flat gamma curve.
End Result: I finally have the picture that I wanted. I am seeing fantastic detail, especially in shadows, the colors are great and I am not annoyed with the overall color shifts that I was seeing (on the same channel, during commercials, etc.) and I am not seeing washed out whites and bright colors.
After getting gamma flat, I rechecked the gray scale and color gamut and made minor tweaks. I rechecked the gamma and left it as it was.
Anyway, I hope this helps. The pros will probably criticize my techniques and rationale, but there hasn't been many (if any) 2009 calibration reports for the PRO-151FD.