The instructions are step by step, any particular reason why you skipped so many? :confused:
Do these steps are post your rgb highs and lows:
1) With the Display in Standby/Off: Press the POWER ON Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile (wait a few seconds for the Display to Power On).
2) Press the CALIBRATION ON Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.
3) Move the "A/V SELECTION" slider to the right 2 times until it reads 'A/V Selection 3' (AV Selection: Movie).
4) Press the SEND button next to the "A/V SELECTION" slider.
5) Move the "PURE CINEMA" slider to 0 (Off).
6) Press the SEND button next to the "PURE CINEMA" slider.
7) Press Mute on the Display's Remote Control until you see the menu called "Panel Factory (+).
8) Press Enter on the Display's Remote Control.
9) Use the up or down arrow to navigate until you see "Panel-2 ADJ (+).
10) Press Enter on the Display's Remote Control.
11) Write down (AND SAVE THESE SETTINGS IN A SAFE PLACE) the Factory Set values for: R-HIGH, G-HIGH, B-HIGH, R-LOW, G-LOW, B-LOW.
12) Press the CALIBRATION OFF Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.
13) Press the POWER OFF Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.
I really didn't mean to skip any of them. I didn't do the 1080i thing because I figured it was for a full on calibration, where I was just going to do the offsets. The reason I didn't select movie mode and pure cinema off on the control cal menu is because I had tried it earlier and got "error received from display" when I tried to do it. I didn't know the program wasn't working exactly right because it didn't say in the intructions that when you hit "calibration on" that text appears on the screen. It screwed up the first time for me because no text appeared, but I was none the wiser and tried to keep going and kept getting errors. I figured because the tv was already in movie mode with pure cinema off, that's why I was getting an error.
So the next time I didn't bother using the slider for movie mode or pure cinema and just put in the new values, hitting send after each one. Then I hit save and powered off the display.
That's when I started to get nervous that I should have hit send next to the movie mode and pure cinema sliders. So I used control cal to turn the tv back on, did everything exactly the same, just changing the values back to what they were earlier and hitting send next to each one. I got nervous though because I saw after I did that, that the slider for mode was on 1 which is optimum. I did not hit send next to that, so I'm assuming at this point I successfully reversed everything I had done before....do you agree?
I then went back in and did everything by the book including hitting send while in mode 3 and pure cinema 0.
What's strange to me is that almost all of my default values were 500. I think only one or two were different than that and only by a few numbers.
Thank you for all your help...I'm just making sure I didn't screw up something that I can't fix without paying a professional. The picture looked fine to me this morning so I'm hoping.
stedmakr
03-05-2009, 05:16 PM
I just attempted to calibrate the gray scale on a 5020. I got my original settings and then attempted the calibration. I am using the settings that Turbe sent (settings early in this email string.
I thought I did everything step by step. After I hit save on controlcal I turned off the display. When I turned the display back on I realized that the wasn't an instruction to turn off calibration.
I finished the process step by step including setting the picture modes (movie). I turned off the TV. When I turned the TV back on there was too much red on peoples faces. I checked picture mode and found that I was in standard mode. I re-input the movie mode settings. The picture now looks like shit - fuzzy (worse than SD), there is a line across the bottom of the screen and the picture itself is an odd size.
So what do I do now. Do I attempt again or do I revert back to original settings? When in the process do I attempt turn off calibration.
Again - help
KCDoug
03-05-2009, 07:08 PM
Just a note of thanks to Turbe for quickly getting me the right profile info. for my 5020FD on a Saturday morning.
And my kind thanks to D-Nice for his generosity in freely sharing his expertise and calibration settings for the non-elite Kuros. Doing so provides a welcome option to have a pretty nice picture, as close as possible to an individual professional calibration which helps me further enjoy the privilege of being able to acquire a great plasma. (Can't help but feel a little bad for those consumers who buy one and use Pioneer's recommended settings. :devil: )
I'm happy to report that taking the extra time to read through D-Nice's instructions and organizing my papers and set up stuff up so that I could conveniently record my baseline settings and pre-calculate my new settings to easily input & save them seems to have paid off. I used my own DB9 cable and adaptors, and an IBM laptop w/docking station that provided the right connectivity.
All in all it went pretty smoothly. My only improvement suggestion to Turbe would be to remove the old instructions (that you say to ignore) included with the profile download and replace with D-Nice's step by step info.
Really appreciate the service - much as I'd love to have a professional calibration, budget priorities are preventing that from happening anytime soon (2nd daughter getting married this spring and recovering from recent layoff). My hat's off to Turbe and D-Nice as well as many others who have contributed constructive insights here and at AVS.
*Okay, now that I think of it, one minor gripe: My 1080i HD cable channels sometime appear a little grainy; it's more noticeable on some scenes than others. Conversely it's not noticeable on the same cable content on my older 720p Pioneer 5060, nor is it as noticeable with my Oppo 971 DVD player that is upscaling to 720p on the 5020. (I'm waiting for a replacement remote for the OPPO so that I can try to upscale to 1080 to see how that looks.) I hope to add BD in late summer or fall.)
Cheers,
-Doug
DisplayHarmony
03-05-2009, 09:05 PM
when you power off with the master switch, that would automatically end calibration mode.
What settings did you use including offsets?
I didn't think turbe had settings or sent them out, but here is D-Nice's:
You can either go back to original settings or go directly to D-Nice's settings and offsets based from your original settings. When you power off and then back on, you have to reset all the user menu settings including setting the AV Selection to Movie.
stedmakr
03-06-2009, 08:17 AM
DisplayHarmony,
Thanks - I redid the calibration and everything works fine. I think that the whites are whiter. The image is beautiful.
Keith
h2guy
03-08-2009, 08:55 PM
I don't think you want Contrast set > 40....
D-Nice recommends 40, yet 45 is too high? What's the rationale?
RichB
03-09-2009, 06:01 AM
D-Nice recommends 40, yet 45 is too high? What's the rationale?
After 40, white get crushed and you lose detail.
I am not sure why Pioneer implemented it this way.
- Rich
squire23
03-10-2009, 06:17 AM
I purchased the ControlCal bundle and am very pleased with the entire experience. :thumbup:The cables were received from Turbe in just a couple days and I was able to input D-Nice's offsets fairly easily. The whole process took about 20 minutes. The whites have been cleaned up and movie mode has a little more "pop" to it. It's nothing drastic (which it really shouldn't be because the picture was already great) but there are noticable improvements to the picture. What was great now seems just about perfect.
The only suggestion I have is to maybe have a little more instruction on opening the ControlCal software and profile. I was able to figure it out, but had some minor problems. First, the software defaulted to COM1. I needed to change it to COM8 per the port I used on my laptop. Also, it seems like common sense, but once I opened ControlCal, it took me a couple minutes to realize I needed open the profile for my 5020 using File/open from within ControlCal. For some reason I thought the profile would open automatically once I put in my activation key. Finally, after inputing the offsets and powering off the monitor, I was not sure if I should unplug the cables at that point and close out of ControlCal while the monitor was off, or if it should have been done after the monitor was turned back on. I'm guessing it did not matter either way.
All in all these were minor I was able to work through them. Great experience overall.
Thanks to Turbe and D-Nice for enabling me to do this!
corpfan1
03-10-2009, 08:29 AM
I agree with all your points...
Maybe someone can write up a "more detailed" step by step for the person who is afraid of doing something wrong the first time...
I was - but after playing around and realizing how things really work - it is a piece of cake.
There is really NOTHING to worry about - you can even plug in the cables while your tv is on, etc...but I understand the warnings.
I purchased the ControlCal bundle and am very pleased with the entire experience. :thumbup:The cables were received from Turbe in just a couple days and I was able to input D-Nice's offsets fairly easily. The whole process took about 20 minutes. The whites have been cleaned up and movie mode has a little more "pop" to it. It's nothing drastic (which it really shouldn't be because the picture was already great) but there are noticable improvements to the picture. What was great now seems just about perfect.
The only suggestion I have is to maybe have a little more instruction on opening the ControlCal software and profile. I was able to figure it out, but had some minor problems. First, the software defaulted to COM1. I needed to change it to COM8 per the port I used on my laptop. Also, it seems like common sense, but once I opened ControlCal, it took me a couple minutes to realize I needed open the profile for my 5020 using File/open from within ControlCal. For some reason I thought the profile would open automatically once I put in my activation key. Finally, after inputing the offsets and powering off the monitor, I was not sure if I should unplug the cables at that point and close out of ControlCal while the monitor was off, or if it should have been done after the monitor was turned back on. I'm guessing it did not matter either way.
All in all these were minor I was able to work through them. Great experience overall.
Thanks to Turbe and D-Nice for enabling me to do this!
DisplayHarmony
03-10-2009, 11:53 AM
DisplayHarmony,
Thanks - I redid the calibration and everything works fine. I think that the whites are whiter. The image is beautiful.
Keith
beautiful:thumbup:
DisplayHarmony
03-10-2009, 11:55 AM
D-Nice recommends 40, yet 45 is too high? What's the rationale?
After 40, white get crushed and you lose detail.
I am not sure why Pioneer implemented it this way.
- Rich
check to see if you are crushing white which you should be at Contrast 45 :lesson:
how's the gamma look when it's set at 45?
ballenjr
03-10-2009, 03:17 PM
Has everyone who has calibrated their display taken measurements outside of ControlCal/service menu to confirm their settings are the same? The image looks different to me after saving, turning the power off, and putting the movie settings back in. There is still a noticeable change when switching from PC off to advanced, but the changes just don't match up with what I'm seeing in the service menu. I don't have the equipment to measure it myself so I was wondering if others could confirm this.
Today while attempting to calibrate my 6020 I came across this same problem.
When navigating to the DVE HD Basics Blu-ray test patterns, I noticed that the pluge pattern changed dramatically once 'calibration on' was pressed. None of the outer three rectangles were visible (two were visible before 'calibration on' was pressed).
Sending the controlcal commands to set "AV Selection=3" and "Pure Cinema=0" does change the image (evidenced by a change in center pattern of the pluge) but does not bring back any of the outer three rectangles.
I question whether I would be able to calibrate correctly if I can't get the image in the service menu to match the image outside the service menu.
I believe I am following all instructions correctly. Output on my player is at 1080i, all menu settings are set as per the instructions at the beginning of the thread.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
ballenjr
hidef hearing
03-10-2009, 04:16 PM
I would like to calibrate my 5020FD using ControlCAL with my laptop. I want to make adjustments to the grayscale as might be needed and also balance the RGB. Isn't some kind of metering device or grayscale and color standards/templates required as well?
Thanks in advance for your responses.
Turbe
03-10-2009, 05:00 PM
Greetings hidef hearing, :hiya:
If you do want to do a actual calibration, then yes, you need a meter and additional software. For the Kuros, it is recommended to use a Chroma 5 or EyeOne Pro minimum.
For software, you can use ColorHCFR and CalMAN. :devil:
Our Members get the best prices on the CalMAN / Meter Bundles. See: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/announcement.php?f=12&a=11 :thumbup:
Here at CalibrationForums.com, we will have EyeOne Pro's available for rental (currently 2, but only 1 in the rental pool). ColorHCFR will need to be used on the rental EyeOne Pro's. More info soon. :thumbsup:
I've started a Step-by-Step for ColorHCFR and the EyeOne Pro (though it will initially focus on the Elites)... you can see the Thread here: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=212
:clap:
ballenjr
03-10-2009, 05:57 PM
Has everyone who has calibrated their display taken measurements outside of ControlCal/service menu to confirm their settings are the same? The image looks different to me after saving, turning the power off, and putting the movie settings back in. There is still a noticeable change when switching from PC off to advanced, but the changes just don't match up with what I'm seeing in the service menu. I don't have the equipment to measure it myself so I was wondering if others could confirm this.
Today while attempting to calibrate my 6020 I came across this same problem.
When navigating to the DVE HD Basics Blu-ray test patterns, I noticed that the pluge pattern changed dramatically once 'calibration on' was pressed. None of the outer three rectangles were visible (two were visible before 'calibration on' was pressed).
Sending the controlcal commands to set "AV Selection=3" and "Pure Cinema=0" does change the image (evidenced by a change in center pattern of the pluge) but does not bring back any of the outer three rectangles.
I question whether I would be able to calibrate correctly if I can't get the image in the service menu to match the image outside the service menu.
I believe I am following all instructions correctly. Output on my player is at 1080i, all menu settings are set as per the instructions at the beginning of the thread.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
ballenjr
Turbe
Will you please help with the above issue. I obviously am not the only one who has noticed this problem.
Thanks
ballenjr
hidef hearing
03-10-2009, 08:26 PM
Thanks for your reply Turbe!
The hardware and programming will have to wait as a possible future buy. So for now I'm interested in working with ControlCAL alone. Does the key that is issued when ControlCAL is purchased have any kind of limits on it such as time or usage? Can the original purchaser use it many times over several years on his/her own displays? Aren't there codes that are required to gain access to the service menu of a 5020FD and if so, how can they be acquired?
nmcnair
03-15-2009, 09:14 PM
I did my calibration using D-Nices offsets at AVS. I followed all the steps, but when I turned my TV back on it didn't ask me if I wanted to select "home" or not.
Did I do something wrong?
I also can't really see a difference in the before/after when I switch to advance mode.. Should I do the first steps to see what my offsets are currently set to on my TV?
nmcnair
03-15-2009, 09:29 PM
never mind, I can see the difference in white areas. It isn't dramatic, but flesh tones are a bit better and white is certainly more white.
I guess a Pixar movie wasn't the best thing to try out the new settings on.
DisplayHarmony
03-15-2009, 09:40 PM
nmcnair, I would repeat the steps from the beginning (including reading your currently set RGB Highs/Lows, write these down but don't get them mixed with your factory set values you wrote down in the very beginning).
You should get that Menu. Just re-enter the new values (factory set values -/+ offsets). Use the Master Power Swith on the very back of your display.
nmcnair
03-16-2009, 06:18 AM
Maybe that was my mistake, where is the master power switch? I couldn't find anything other than the on/standby button on the side panel.
nmcnair
03-16-2009, 06:20 AM
dp
D-Nice
03-16-2009, 10:40 AM
Today while attempting to calibrate my 6020 I came across this same problem.
When navigating to the DVE HD Basics Blu-ray test patterns, I noticed that the pluge pattern changed dramatically once 'calibration on' was pressed. None of the outer three rectangles were visible (two were visible before 'calibration on' was pressed).
Sending the controlcal commands to set "AV Selection=3" and "Pure Cinema=0" does change the image (evidenced by a change in center pattern of the pluge) but does not bring back any of the outer three rectangles.
I question whether I would be able to calibrate correctly if I can't get the image in the service menu to match the image outside the service menu.
I believe I am following all instructions correctly. Output on my player is at 1080i, all menu settings are set as per the instructions at the beginning of the thread.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
ballenjrYou only use the SM to make the grayscale adjustments. Do all of your measurements outside of the SM.
DisplayHarmony
03-16-2009, 11:02 AM
Maybe that was my mistake, where is the master power switch? I couldn't find anything other than the on/standby button on the side panel.
I had a white glove delivery via amazon, so they did the hookup for me so I never knew it was there.
I'm glad to hear it, because honestly the differences I thought I saw after the calibration were so slight I was thinking it was purely placebo effect. Guess I was right :D
I'll play with it when I get home.
nmcnair
03-16-2009, 09:00 PM
I think something permanent is screwed up now. :(
When I went to check the defaults again, the changes I made before saved and the defaults were the offsets I put in, but switching between advanced and off on PC doesn't show any change at all.
Really wish I had known about that power button last night.
edit: ok, can certainly see differences now, everything has less red slightly bluer, is that what I was going for?
Ok, after watching a movie, white is white now. I didn't notice it before, but white is redish when watching in advanced mode. It makes the whites pop off the screen more than they did before, and gives a more natural look to everything.
Jeff_DML
03-17-2009, 08:27 AM
I think something permanent is screwed up now. :(
When I went to check the defaults again, the changes I made before saved and the defaults were the offsets I put in, but switching between advanced and off on PC doesn't show any change at all.
Really wish I had known about that power button last night.
edit: ok, can certainly see differences now, everything has less red slightly bluer, is that what I was going for?
Ok, after watching a movie, white is white now. I didn't notice it before, but white is redish when watching in advanced mode. It makes the whites pop off the screen more than they did before, and gives a more natural look to everything.
yep that is what you want, congrats:)
nmcnair
03-17-2009, 10:08 AM
Thanks,
I am very happy with the picture now.
I upgraded from a very bad TV (a 4 year old 720p Panasonic RPTV) with very muddy grays posing as black, undefeatable EE, 2:3 pulldown was broken, and really really bad color reproduction and on top of all that the overscan was horrible (6% on the botton, 5% on top, 4% on both sides).
The upgrade to the 5020FD was such an enormous improvement in everything that the more subtle change of fixing the grayscale pales in comparison. I did some extensive A/B'ing late into the night on several movies. Skin tones look less flushed, clouds look like clouds, light bloom looks white, and small things like the sink at the beginning of 'no country for old men' looks like a porceilein sink now. It's subtle but everything looks much more natural and refined than it did prior to the adjustment.
I have to say, seeing the difference between a good black level and high contrast ratio vs. more accurate color tells me that Black level and contrast are king when it comes to IQ.
donaldkwong
04-24-2009, 12:15 PM
Is anyone actively working on a solution to get the 5020/6020 sets to use the calibrated grayscale in 72Hz mode?
DisplayHarmony
04-24-2009, 01:25 PM
72Hz will still work for 1080p24 sources when you set Pure Cinema to "Off".
Set to PC to OFF for 1080p/24.
DisplayHarmony
04-24-2009, 01:26 PM
Thanks,
I am very happy with the picture now.
I have to say, seeing the difference between a good black level and high contrast ratio vs. more accurate color tells me that Black level and contrast are king when it comes to IQ.
:clap:
donaldkwong
04-28-2009, 10:28 AM
Set to PC to OFF for 1080p/24.
I guess that means no, then. It's pretty obvious to my eyes that my set does not use 72Hz when PC mode is set to OFF, so I'm in the camp that doesn't think PC OFF uses 72Hz. Let me rephrase the question then -- is anyone actively working on a solution to get the 5020/6020 sets to use the calibrated grayscale in PC Advanced mode?
humble_t
05-04-2009, 05:06 PM
I've been reading through these posts for about 3 weeks now in anticipation of my Kuro 5020's delivery. The panel came in and I ran break-in images on a thumbdrive with d-nice's settings for +or- 200hrs. On Saturday I made a contribution for controlcal and on Sunday turbe quickly sent out the registration info and the profile.(thanks turbe!:thumbup:) Setup was pretty straight-foward as was inputing the settings. Printing the instructions and reading them over a few times before the process made things very clear.
I must say that the panel looks great. Whites most definitely look more natural. Reading these posts and following these instructions have allowed me (a total novice) to approach a PQ seemingly reserved for those who can afford a professional calibration or the expensive gear and the knowledge to use it. I sincerely thank everyone who has and will continue to contribute to this topic. Looking forward to learning more.:thumbsup:
wrinklefree
05-13-2009, 09:08 AM
I guess that means no, then. It's pretty obvious to my eyes that my set does not use 72Hz when PC mode is set to OFF, so I'm in the camp that doesn't think PC OFF uses 72Hz. Let me rephrase the question then -- is anyone actively working on a solution to get the 5020/6020 sets to use the calibrated grayscale in PC Advanced mode?
I'm experiencing the same thing. Camera pans seem slightly smoother during action sequences when PC mode is set to Standard rather than OFF when watching blu rays. I bugs me to death that I can't get my adjusted greyscale in this mode.
Surely someone has come up with a way around this yet?!
donaldkwong
05-13-2009, 03:43 PM
There's an ongoing discussion about this topic on avsforum (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=16444006#post16444006). It would be nice if someone figured out how to get both 72Hz mode and calibrated grayscale at the same time.
muty
05-16-2009, 02:02 PM
Seems like someone figure out how to calibrate PC modes for the 9GNE a few days ago. Any ideas when a new display profile and updated procedure will be available ?
DisplayHarmony
05-17-2009, 11:09 AM
thread for new version of profile (supporting all PC Modes) here: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300
mkaye
06-16-2009, 05:41 PM
does anyone know if the calibration settings will survive an extended power failure?
mark
Turbe
06-16-2009, 10:06 PM
Yes, they will
wrinklefree
07-13-2009, 11:52 PM
If anyone wants to part with their light meter, please PM me.
fpapp
08-05-2009, 11:53 AM
Hi all!
I received the bundle for my PDP-5020FD last week and used it to apply D-Nice's RGB offsets.
I'm fairly happy with the results, and as I've seen mentioned in other posts, Movie mode seems to have more punch, and whites are a lot cleaner. Skin tones seem to have a lot less red and look more natural, although at times seem to be a little too yellow for my tastes. It may have to do with the input source since sometimes skin tones look spot on!
I've noticed that Standard, Performance, and Optimum modes seem to look better as well! (I usually prefer Standard for watching cable and Movie when watching DVD/Blu-Ray).
Do the RGB offsets affect the Pure Cinema modes? I've switched between Off, Standard & Advance and don't notice any difference in color.
At this point I'm still undecided if I will have the set professionally calibrated. I'm quite happy with the picture, and it's hard for me to imagine it could be even better!
Thanks,
Frank
poormxdad
08-15-2009, 03:53 PM
Thanks for a great forum. I bought a new-in-the-box 5020 a couple of weeks ago. Build date Aug 08. I hope you guys are still listening...
I received my ControlCal bundle a few days ago. I haven't done anything with it yet, still going through all the threads.
Through an interesting twist of fate, I also have SpyderTV and the Spyder sensor. I've heard not-so-great things about it, but it didn't cost me anything. Should I use the Spyder to do a DIY calibration, or just use D-Nice's settings till I can get a better meter?
Thanks,
poormxdad
Turbe
08-15-2009, 04:48 PM
try both :D
wrinklefree
08-19-2009, 05:04 PM
Hi all!
I received the bundle for my PDP-5020FD last week and used it to apply D-Nice's RGB offsets.
I'm fairly happy with the results, and as I've seen mentioned in other posts, Movie mode seems to have more punch, and whites are a lot cleaner. Skin tones seem to have a lot less red and look more natural, although at times seem to be a little too yellow for my tastes. It may have to do with the input source since sometimes skin tones look spot on!
I've noticed that Standard, Performance, and Optimum modes seem to look better as well! (I usually prefer Standard for watching cable and Movie when watching DVD/Blu-Ray).
Do the RGB offsets affect the Pure Cinema modes? I've switched between Off, Standard & Advance and don't notice any difference in color.
At this point I'm still undecided if I will have the set professionally calibrated. I'm quite happy with the picture, and it's hard for me to imagine it could be even better!
Thanks,
Frank
Try bumping the B high by +10 and see if you prefer its slightly cooler picture.
fpapp
08-22-2009, 01:51 PM
Try bumping the B high by +10 and see if you prefer its slightly cooler picture.
Thanks for the reply, I'll give that a try, maybe +5 first and see how it looks.
Do the RBG offsets only affect movie mode, or all modes?
Thanks,
Frank
poormxdad
08-24-2009, 05:41 AM
Folks,
This is not a "whatdidIdowrong" post. I know what I did wrong--skipped a step--but it got me a little confused and curious.
I'm using ControlCAL, ColorHCFR and a Spyder2 sensor. I made a single adjustment to Red but still input and hit send for all three of the high values. Instead of "Save", I hit "End Calibration". I knew right away I'd skipped a step, but when I went back to check the values per the instructions, all three were in there, including the Red adjustment I just made. What would have happened if I had continued without going back through the process to hit "Save"?
Thanks,
poormxdad
DisplayHarmony
08-24-2009, 09:08 AM
Your probably wouldn't be too happy after a master power cycle ;)
poormxdad
08-24-2009, 09:37 AM
Does that mean the results would not have stuck but I thought they had, or that something even more heinous would have occurred?
poormxdad
poormxdad
08-24-2009, 09:50 AM
Another question. I'm still learning the software and procedure, not to mention the 5020 itself...
I've read you can't calibrate while in the SM. Can I run the SM on say, Input 5, and calibrate on Input 4 simultaneously, or is the SM on everywhere if activated? I wanted to ask before I switched inputs with the SM up. If not, is there another way that would allow me to view the SM changes to the RGB sliders on HCFR as I make them?
Thanks for a great forum,
poormxdad
DisplayHarmony
08-24-2009, 10:26 AM
With Controlcal you do actually calibrate while in the sm including while in Movie. Since the adjustments are global, you just calibrate to one Input but it will be valid for the others.
poormxdad
08-24-2009, 10:56 AM
You only use the SM to make the grayscale adjustments. Do all of your measurements outside of the SM.
I did a search of posts by D-Nice in this thread and that was the first one to come up--top o'the list. D-Nice's post was obviously in response to another.
My experience is the numbers I get from from HCFR don't jive when I turn off the SM and measure again. So, I've been following D-Nice's advice. It's sure slow going. Make a measurement, turn off the 5020, start ControlCAL, turn on the 5020 with ControlCAL, make a guess at the changes, hit SEND, hit SAVE, turn off the TV with ControlCAL, turn off the main switch, have another beer, turn on the main switch, change all the parameters back from the reset, make another measurement with HCFR, turn off the 5020, have another beer, turn the 5020 back on with ControlCAL...
There has to be an easier way.
Thanks,
poormxdad
DisplayHarmony
08-24-2009, 11:42 AM
Not sure what you are doing but it doesn't look like you are following the step by step.. the 9G non elites are the easiest 9G Pioneers to calibrate..
You do you grayscale calibration (all stimuli) in the sm before pressing the save button - in this step:
Begin calibration (adjust the RGB-Highs/RGB-Lows using the sliders, remember to press the SEND button next to each slider when you want to send a value to the display). NOTE: You can enable Auto Send (MENU/SETTINGS) so each time the slider is moved the new value will be sent to the display automatically.
You do a check outside the SM after save and master power off - do touch up if needed inside.
poormxdad
08-24-2009, 12:11 PM
Based on similar findings as the poster to which D-Nice replied (that I quoted), I adjusted the instructions.
When I manipulated the SM RGB sliders in Input 4 and got the readings right in HFCR, they were way off when I measured again with the SM off in Input 4 Movie, etc. Way off. There are others who experienced the same thing. Hence, I suppose, the reason for the D-Nice posting.
Could it be my firmware? I have an older version, but don't use the tuner so I have been hesitant about the upgrade. If it ain't broke...
Thanks much,
poormxdad
DisplayHarmony
08-24-2009, 01:59 PM
exactly, you do your grayscale adjustments/calibration inside the SM (same as his quote and what I posted right above your post above)...
What Contrast setting are you using (in fact give the other settings that are using in the user menu).
poormxdad
08-24-2009, 03:03 PM
You only use the SM to make the grayscale adjustments. Do all of your measurements outside of the SM.
That's not how I read the quote above. It says "Do all of your measurements outside of the SM". Sooooooooo, I can't manipulate the sliders while in the SM with HFCR in Continuous Read mode till I get 100% across the board because it's way off when I check it with the SM off. We may be talking past each other.
When you said "exactly", what were you referring to?
Thanks,
poormxdad
wrinklefree
09-08-2009, 11:11 AM
That's not how I read the quote above. It says "Do all of your measurements outside of the SM". Sooooooooo, I can't manipulate the sliders while in the SM with HFCR in Continuous Read mode till I get 100% across the board because it's way off when I check it with the SM off. We may be talking past each other.
When you said "exactly", what were you referring to?
Thanks,
poormxdad
Yeah unfortunately there's no way around this. I've noticed the measurements look different outside of the service menu, but only slightly. I've had to go back and touch it up a new notches here and there to get it perfect.
Also you might have to do additional touchups between 60hz and 72hz modes since they theoretically use diff RGB values.
I was previously running a modified version of D-nice's offsets based on my own eye. To my surprise it was pretty close with Delta E's hovering around 3 mostly due to slightly higher reds.
Turns out my contrast of 39 was a bit high. Lowering it 36 put me around 36 Ft/L which is perfect for my environment.
My previous color saturation was also too high (+3). Taking 21% of the Y from a 75% IRE put my color at -2.
Overall picture is stunning. The best word to describe it is "balanced". No single color stands out and images look more lifelike. I'm thrilled!
If you're on the shelf about doing a calibration I say do it! :)
stedmakr
09-13-2009, 01:46 PM
I've calibrated the gray scale using control cal and dialed in the movie mode settings recommended by D-Nice. Are the recommended settings for the sports mode?
Thanks,
Keith
ocZZZZ
09-13-2009, 03:50 PM
I just finished applying the v10 5020 profile and I'm impressed to say the least. Maybe it's a placebo effect but I feel that the picture is more defined/better whites vs. the .8 profile. Also, the profile now takes effect with advanced enabled. I got a white screen when applying the freq but all was good after saving and "rebooting" the TV.
ttdrums
10-09-2009, 11:22 AM
Well, my experience at the top of the television mountain has come to an abrupt end. My 5020 was stolen on Monday (along with most of my other electronics). Wouldn't be so bad if I could actually replace it with the same thing. Insurance is covering the loss, but since I bought it for a ridiculously low price from Amazon in February, they will only cover that cost and not the current going rate of $3500. Bummer. I know that I could get a 500M, but it doesn't come with the stand and the speakers. Anyone know how much extra those are? Can't seem to find them.
wrinklefree
10-10-2009, 04:26 PM
Well, my experience at the top of the television mountain has come to an abrupt end. My 5020 was stolen on Monday (along with most of my other electronics). Wouldn't be so bad if I could actually replace it with the same thing. Insurance is covering the loss, but since I bought it for a ridiculously low price from Amazon in February, they will only cover that cost and not the current going rate of $3500. Bummer. I know that I could get a 500M, but it doesn't come with the stand and the speakers. Anyone know how much extra those are? Can't seem to find them.
Sorry to hear that. I believe Value Electronics was selling the 500M with stand for $1800 shipped.
Also Best Buy still has new 5020's on their web site. Check the outlet section.
If I were to do it all over again, I would get the 500M in a heartbeat for the calibration options.
ttdrums
10-12-2009, 03:08 PM
Sorry to hear that. I believe Value Electronics was selling the 500M with stand for $1800 shipped.
Unfortunately I don't live within 200 miles of Scarsdale, NY. I would go for this in a second.
Traxion
10-20-2009, 09:03 AM
Can anyone confirm the factory RGB offsets for a 5020FD starting with serial number HJMN? Are D Nice's settings of R. HIGH -13 and B. HIGH +49 correct for these panels, or are those meant for a different serial number range? Also, I have the latest firmware from pioneer's website (wasn't sure if that mattered, but figured I'd mention it). Also, wrinkle free, what serial number panel do you have? What were your RGB settings in your latest calibration? I am curious because I found the exact same thing as you did with the contrast being too high and ended up at the exact same number as you did (36), and think that maybe your settings will be pretty close to what mine needs. Thanks so much,
David
wrinklefree
10-20-2009, 05:15 PM
Can anyone confirm the factory RGB offsets for a 5020FD starting with serial number HJMN? Are D Nice's settings of R. HIGH -13 and B. HIGH +49 correct for these panels, or are those meant for a different serial number range? Also, I have the latest firmware from pioneer's website (wasn't sure if that mattered, but figured I'd mention it). Also, wrinkle free, what serial number panel do you have? What were your RGB settings in your latest calibration? I am curious because I found the exact same thing as you did with the contrast being too high and ended up at the exact same number as you did (36), and think that maybe your settings will be pretty close to what mine needs. Thanks so much,
David
Mine is a HIPM but the offsets are the same for all 5020's. The D-nice settings will get you closer if not perfect. The thing that bothered me was not knowing for certain, so I ended up getting my hands on a meter.
Pioneer BDP-51FD settings:
Gamma -1 (boost from 2.1 to 2.2)
Traxion
10-20-2009, 05:56 PM
Thanks so much! Although I'm confused on one thing; I heard that the RGB offsets don't carry over to anything other than standard mode. Are you using V.10 of the control cal panel display? I heard that changed this and made the RGB offsets apply to everything, but I don't know that much about the specifics. In any case, where do you download this newer panel profile, because Turbe only sent me a link to the .08 download when I bought my key?
Traxion
10-20-2009, 06:17 PM
Also, I'm curious about your B. HIGH settings, because they are really high compared with D Nice's settings. With D Nice's settings, I've noticed that my reds and blues (imparticular the blues) are a little intense, but I'm not sure how much of an effect the RGB offsets even make to this because they are more for adjusting the grayscale of the colors than the color points, hues, and saturation characteristics (from my understanding, at least). I am at -7 color, and it looks pretty darn good. Anything higher and it looks overly vivid (again, imparticular with the reds and blues). Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Turbe
10-20-2009, 06:35 PM
Traxion, v0.08 caries over to Off, Standard and Smooth.
If you want v0.10, email me.
:)
Traxion
10-20-2009, 08:35 PM
emailed!
nmcnair
10-30-2009, 10:34 PM
Turbe,
The new profile worked great and I *love* being able to get the correct white with 24p content. I know the word is that "off" process 24p content properly, but blind tests (involving a very annoyed girlfriend) had me picking out "advanced" every time for smoother pans.
In any case, you make a great product and I'm as happy as I think I can be with my Kuro as a resul.t
1killerolds
11-04-2009, 06:51 AM
First time user of ControlCAL. It worked like a charm! I had no problems entering the SM and adjusting the RGB offsets. But then again, I am used to following directions to a t since I use a much more complicated calibration program for calibrating automotive engine management systems at my job.
using offsets posted by D-nice of:
R-hi:-13
G-hi:0
B-hi:+49
User SM settings:
AV mode:Movie
Contrast:40
Brightness:0
Color:+1
Tint:R1
Sharpness:-15
PC: off
Text Optimization:off
Orbiter: mode2
Room light sensor:off
A bid thanks to Turbe and D-nice for the settings and controlCAL.
cpalcott
12-03-2009, 07:32 PM
There has been a lot of talk here and at AVS about using contolcal on a 5020 and calibrating 60hz to the Standard AV mode (for cable viewing) and 72hz to the Movie AV mode (Blu-ray viewing). I have used D-Nice's offsets for Movie mode, but does anybody have any offsets for Standard AV mode? I am assuming they would be different for Standard AV mode vs Movie AV mode.
Hobiedude
12-16-2009, 06:57 AM
I have noticed that everyone's factory RGB Hi settings are slightly different. Does Pioneer "calibrate" each panel to some "Pioneer standard" before they leave the factory?
Turbe
12-16-2009, 03:19 PM
Yes, this is why 9G NE High/Low settings are represented as offsets...
wwoodring
01-15-2010, 07:56 PM
Edited, figured it out
wwoodring
01-15-2010, 10:31 PM
There has been a lot of talk here and at AVS about using contolcal on a 5020 and calibrating 60hz to the Standard AV mode (for cable viewing) and 72hz to the Movie AV mode (Blu-ray viewing). I have used D-Nice's offsets for Movie mode, but does anybody have any offsets for Standard AV mode? I am assuming they would be different for Standard AV mode vs Movie AV mode.
+1
dark1x
01-30-2010, 12:00 PM
I've been messing around again with some settings and one thing that continues to strike me is how DIM the movie mode appears next to any other mode. Movie mode is the only mode in which all dynamic settings are disabled, of course, but it just appears very dim even after adjustment.
edit - OK, well, it still feels rather dim compared to the other modes, but part of the problem was simply that, after a restart, the light sensor would enable itself again. Leaving that on does dim the picture and it seems to be disabled while in the service menu.
smeg36
02-01-2010, 01:03 PM
I'm planning on using D-Nice's sm offsets, and after reading here and at AVS I'm more confused than ever about calibrating and the Pure Cinema modes. I want to get the calibrated grayscale, and 72hz from blu-rays. I've read conflicting reports about setting PC to off and getting 72hz. So what's the final word on this issue? It seems the more I read the more conflicting the reports are.
Turbe
02-01-2010, 02:12 PM
You can make adjustments and save for all Pure Cinema Modes with ControlCAL... ;)
jkcheng122
03-01-2010, 02:15 PM
Question regarding adjusting gamma. With only RGB highs and lows to tweak, how can I adjust the gamma on my 5020FD? I noticed on my calibration the gamma is above 2.2 at 10 to 40 IRE and below 2.2 from 60 to 90 IRE but on D-Nice's calibration it's a straight horizontal line.
PS: I'm using Chroma 5 with CalMAN for calibration.
DeBo
03-02-2010, 06:01 AM
Posting all your settings would help us analyze. What gamma setting are you using, contrast and brightness settings, AV selection?
jkcheng122
03-02-2010, 06:18 AM
Posting all your settings would help us analyze. What gamma setting are you using, contrast and brightness settings, AV selection?
The ususal:
A/V: Movie
Contrast: 39
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: R1
Sharpness: -15
PureCinema: Off
DeBo
03-03-2010, 08:17 AM
Two more questions for you
What gamma setting are your using because your report shows a average of 2.5 which is to high.
What color temp have you selected because the color gamut under saturated but your luminance is high.
jkcheng122
03-03-2010, 10:29 AM
Two more questions for you
What gamma setting are your using because your report shows a average of 2.5 which is to high.
What color temp have you selected because the color gamut under saturated but your luminance is high.
I believe at the time I wasn't as familiar with CalMAN as I am now when I did that calibration. I will do a more recent one and post results with questions. Color temp is on Movie.
jkcheng122
03-03-2010, 09:44 PM
Redid my calibrations tonight (forgot to do the gamut on pre-calibration), not sure why red got so high in the pre-calibration report. Does the grayscale deviate over time?
DeBo
03-04-2010, 07:53 AM
Looks better, the gamma target for the 5020 is close to 2.1 so if you want to increase contrast by 1 that would set the 100 IRE a little flatter then recheck the brightness. After that check to see if the grayscale needs tweaked. Your color luminance is a touch high might want adjust color down one click.
jkcheng122
03-04-2010, 09:29 AM
Looks better, the gamma target for the 5020 is close to 2.1 so if you want to increase contrast by 1 that would set the 100 IRE a little flatter then recheck the brightness. After that check to see if the grayscale needs tweaked. Your color luminance is a touch high might want adjust color down one click.
Ideally where do i want luminance for the colors to be? I had mine set at -3 since that seemed to yield the lowest delta E across all colors. As for upping the contrast a notch, reason I had it set at 39 is b/c it was suggested to have 30 to 40 ftL so I settled on 35~36. When you said a little flatter you're talking about gamma?
DeBo
03-05-2010, 05:21 AM
I usually see better results with luminance just a touch low than on the heavy side but that's me. Just for the heck of it go to the picture controls in calman and select adjust color and see where that ends up and the same with adjust tint. Watch some reference material to determine if you really see a difference.
As for contrast I don't know your viewing environment or viewing habits to set a number. I just suggested this to flatten gamma that was your major concern for this post since D Nice was so much flatter.
Play around and see what your eyes tell you what is the best settings.
jkcheng122
03-05-2010, 07:42 AM
I usually see better results with luminance just a touch low than on the heavy side but that's me. Just for the heck of it go to the picture controls in calman and select adjust color and see where that ends up and the same with adjust tint. Watch some reference material to determine if you really see a difference.
As for contrast I don't know your viewing environment or viewing habits to set a number. I just suggested this to flatten gamma that was your major concern for this post since D Nice was so much flatter.
Play around and see what your eyes tell you what is the best settings.
I'm gonna try setting the gamma target to 2.1 and see if that alone flattens the gamma. Will also play with the color/tint controls some more and see if i can get some diff results. One CalMAN question. How do I add the Bullseye Color Chart? I can't seem to find it in the left column selections under design mode.
jkcheng122
03-05-2010, 11:58 AM
Think I figured it out on the Bullseye Color Chart. It's named CIE Target on my CalMAN under Color Charts -> Single Point Charts -> Target. This chart only covers 1 point at at time. Is there a Bullseye chart that is an average of all the colors?
jkcheng122
03-05-2010, 08:18 PM
The gamma curve looks much smoother now just by switching the target gamma from 2.2 to 2.1. I believe D-Nice mentioned something about the gamma curve for the non-Elites being at 2.1 and not adjustable.
Attached is the updated report.
mike_chic
03-09-2010, 02:06 PM
I just got my pdp 6020fd calibrated by a friend. I am going to get my own meter and software, already have ControlCal and profile v0.08 which we did
use and it works better than great. :) Here is pre and post any suggestions.
precal: factory settings
rh 447
gh 516
bh 500
rl 500
gl 500
bl 500
movie
contr 40
br 0
color +1
tint R1
sharp -15
purecinema: off
text mode: off
power control:
energy save off
option:
auto size wide zoom
orbiter mode 2
room light sensor off
postcal:
rh 400
gh 516
bh 516
rl 537
gl 500
bl 571
movie
contr 40
br -1
color -5
tint R1
sharp -15
purecinema: off
text mode: off
power control:
energy save off
option:
auto size wide zoom
orbiter mode 2
room light sensor off
Thanks
Mike
jkcheng122
03-09-2010, 02:29 PM
I just got my pdp 6020fd calibrated by a friend. I am going to get my own meter and software, already have ControlCal and profile v0.08 which we did
use and it works better than great. :) Here is pre and post any suggestions.
precal: factory settings
rh 447
gh 516
bh 500
rl 500
gl 500
bl 500
movie
contr 40
br 0
color +1
tint R1
sharp -15
purecinema: off
text mode: off
power control:
energy save off
option:
auto size wide zoom
orbiter mode 2
room light sensor off
postcal:
rh 400
gh 516
bh 516
rl 537
gl 500
bl 571
movie
contr 40
br -1
color -5
tint R1
sharp -15
purecinema: off
text mode: off
power control:
energy save off
option:
auto size wide zoom
orbiter mode 2
room light sensor off
Thanks
Mike
Hmmm why is the color temperature so high? Should be able to get that down to a horizontal line across 6500K. Also surprised to see RGB-Lows being tweaked, most everyone's calibration results had those at default 500.
mike_chic
03-20-2010, 09:34 AM
I just bought a Pioneer Kuro pdp-6020fp, CalMan Home Edition with a EyeOne Pro meter
and ControlCal. When Calibrating I can get the upper 80% right on but when it comes to the lower 30% I can’t seem to move it much using the RGBlows. From reading the Chroma 5 is much better for the lower registers. Can I get them closer using the eyeone pro? This is my first time doing this and I know it takes time and dedication to get it. but would deeply appreciate any direction.
The TV looks much better than when they took it out of the box. BUT, I have a hard time seeing other charts that are closer to prefect.
jkcheng122
03-20-2010, 10:44 AM
I just bought a Pioneer Kuro pdp-6020fp, CalMan Home Edition with a EyeOne Pro meter
and ControlCal. When Calibrating I can get the upper 80% right on but when it comes to the lower 30% I can’t seem to move it much using the RGBlows. From reading the Chroma 5 is much better for the lower registers. Can I get them closer using the eyeone pro? This is my first time doing this and I know it takes time and dedication to get it. but would deeply appreciate any direction.
The TV looks much better than when they took it out of the box. BUT, I have a hard time seeing other charts that are closer to prefect.
Did you break in the TV yet? Supposed to get about 150 to 200 hours on it before calibrating, though you could do it now and just do it again later if you're not going the run-the-slides route. As for calibrating the low 30%, use the Highs instead of the lows, you should find a combination that works for both the bright and dark whites on this display, put the Lows back to default and leave them be. Use only the RGB Highs for your grayscale calibration.
If you're using CalMAN for this you can post your reports to better help us help you. You should be able to achieve results like the attached pdf and pic shows. Set your target gamma to 2.1 for a straighter gamma curve.
Did you break in the TV yet? Supposed to get about 150 to 200 hours on it before calibrating, though you could do it now and just do it again later if you're not going the run-the-slides route. As for calibrating the low 30%, use the Highs instead of the lows, you should find a combination that works for both the bright and dark whites on this display, put the Lows back to default and leave them be. Use only the RGB Highs for your grayscale calibration.
If you're using CalMAN for this you can post your reports to better help us help you. You should be able to achieve results like the attached pdf and pic shows. Set your target gamma to 2.1 for a straighter gamma curve.
Thank You for your help. Yes I did the break in. I gave it another go at it, with your advice, I did get it closer to the target but not there yet. Here is my first attempt at a chart.
Mike
jkcheng122
03-20-2010, 10:37 PM
Thank You for your help. Yes I did the break in. I gave it another go at it, with your advice, I did get it closer to the target but not there yet. Here is my first attempt at a chart.
Mike
Are you using 30% and 80% to calibrate? Seems both are a bit off. Red is pretty much low across the board so maybe up it a couple and see what that does. Get 80% to show a deltaE of below 1 and see how the rest look from there.
mike_chic
03-21-2010, 03:27 PM
Are you using 30% and 80% to calibrate? Seems both are a bit off. Red is pretty much low across the board so maybe up it a couple and see what that does. Get 80% to show a deltaE of below 1 and see how the rest look from there.
Move the red up two then brought 80% to show a deltaE of below 1
1st post
Then when I started to bring in 30% the high ends change and the
luminance y started to get out of wack.
Second post
I am having a hard time balancing the 30% and 80% but I know it can be done by looking at yours an other charts. I will keep trying.
jkcheng122
03-21-2010, 08:48 PM
I am having a hard time balancing the 30% and 80% but I know it can be done by looking at yours an other charts. I will keep trying.
Looking better. One more suggestion, find some space and include a gamma chart, gamma is very important to keep a constant throughout the grayscale measurements. Set target to 2.1.
phinsfan
07-06-2010, 04:45 AM
Calibrated my 6020 this past weekend. I just used d-nice offsets. Calibration was straightforward. I noticed a little better picture in movie mode and better blacks( could be my imagination). I also calibrated PC advance using ver. 0.10. When I switch b/w PC off and Advance I really can't tell any difference. So i guess that mean it worked.
My factory offsets:
Rh: 458
Gh: 507
Bh: 500
After adjustments:
Rh: 483
Gh: 502
Bh: 551
Reading this forum helps.
Thanks to all,
ABurk
09-11-2010, 10:02 AM
Here are offsets for plus green panels (serial numbers starting with HEPM):
R High: +13
G High: 0
B High: +63
R Low: 0
B Low: 0
G Low: 0
I was going to have ChadB calibrate my set, but after i noticed the streaky screen problem on light vertical pans I decided I didn't want to sink the extra money into it until I figure out how much the streaks bug me. (They still do but less than at first) I bought control cal mainly to check the hours on the set since I bought it used. Turned out to have about 1800 hours on it. My serial number begins with HGPM. I tried the D--Nice settings on my July 2008 build 6020 and it made it look worse. Red was way overhyped. It already is a bit overhyped at factory settings, and he calls for ADDING red. My original factory gains are R 477, G 539 and B 500. Update: Right after I posted this I tried H2guys offsets from post # 227, and they made my set look better, at least on quality material like a blu-ray. But many cable shows ended up with excess greenish cast. So I ended up with about minus 30 on red, even on green, and plus 55 on blue. Looks more natural, and reds are now under control. Before I also did the 72hz mode, it was easy to switch back and forth and see the difference it made. I can see why tv makers dial in red push..the quality of cable shows is all over the map and 'sunburned' faces are preferable to greenish ones. I am probably back in a slight red push mode, but given the crappy quality of cable shows it is the best I can do for now as an overall compromise.
azjazz
03-16-2011, 11:03 AM
I am trying to calibrate my Pioneer 6020FD with ControlCal and CalMan 4.2, with a Chroma5 colorimeter.
I followed the directions at the beginning of this posting, and I see a huge difference between my starting settings and end results.
I see the screen change significantly when I use ControlCal to set the screen to "Movie Mode" (Mode = 3).
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks,
AzJazz
Turbe
03-16-2011, 12:19 PM
Is this for the v0.08 Profile?
Are you in Movie Mode in the User Menu now?
After the Home / Retail Menu, you need to re-do you User Settings.
Also, what Input Signal did you use when adjusting in ControlCAL.
azjazz
03-16-2011, 12:57 PM
Is this for the v0.08 Profile?
Are you in Movie Mode in the User Menu now?
After the Home / Retail Menu, you need to re-do you User Settings.
Also, what Input Signal did you use when adjusting in ControlCAL.
I am using the v0.10 Profile.
I am in Movie Mode during calibration and in normal operation. I have reapplied my settings after returning to normal operation, but the readings are messed up either way.
I am using Get Gray for my signal source, through a Sony BluRay player.
Turbe
03-16-2011, 06:24 PM
no no, first you should be using v0.08 for the actually calibration..
2nd, use AVS HD 709, Get Gray's windows are too large.
You would have to set it to Movie Mode in the UM after the Home / Retail Menu. Might as well set the other settings.
azjazz
03-17-2011, 04:09 PM
no no, first you should be using v0.08 for the actually calibration..
2nd, use AVS HD 709, Get Gray's windows are too large.
You would have to set it to Movie Mode in the UM after the Home / Retail Menu. Might as well set the other settings.
Thanks, Turbe!
For some reason, changing back to profile v0.08 helped. I was able to save my settings after calibration and use them when the TV rebooted.
Would I use the v0.10 Profile for anything? Such as Pure Cinema calibration?
I also created an AVS HD 709 DVD, which I used during the calibration process. I'm not sure if they provided a better result, though. While my RGB balance looks OK, my green and red luminance values are out of whack.
How do people get such good readings on their 6020FD? I'm a bit stumped.
Thanks,
AzJazz
Turbe
03-18-2011, 05:56 PM
.10 is for saving for PC Advance and 1080p24, just follow the instructions you were emailed for that - it's an optional step and Profile option.
