Calibrating a 5020/6020 (Pioneer 9G Non-Elite - PDP-5020FD / PDP-6020FD)

[DFul4d]

Will there be any info coming out on calibrating a 9G non-elite kuro?

[DisplayHarmony]

WARNING!!!! ONLY USE THIS DISPLAY PROFILE ON A PIONEER PDP-5020FD OR PDP-6020FD.

This ControlCAL Display Profile does require ControlCAL to be Registered or greater. You can get a Registered Activation Key HERE (http://www.controlcal.com/register.html).

Make sure you specify your Pioneer Display Model Number in the Comments Field or by using the Contact Form (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/sendmessage.php).

You will need a DB9 Female to DB9 Female serial cable (straight-through) and possibly a Keyspan USB to serial adapter. More information HERE (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29).
NOW AVAILABLE: ControlCAL Bundled with the ControlCAL USB to Serial Adapter and Serial Cable (Configured for 8G and 9G Pioneers). Click Here for more information (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=173).

Many recommend using an X-Rite I1 Pro (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25) and either ColorHCFR (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=983943) or CalMAN (http://www.spectracal.com/).


FAQ:
72Hz will still work for 1080p24 sources when you set Pure Cinema to "Off".

The panel doesn't run @ 72Hz while Pure Cinema is set to "Standard".

Use Pure Cinema "Standard" for 1080p60/1080i/720p/480i/p and use Pure Cinema "Off" for 1080p24 sources.
Your panel will display a 1080p/24 signal @ 72Hz (3:3 pulldown) when you set Pure Cinema to Off or Advance. Setting Pure Cinema to Standard will show every single input signal @ 60Hz with 3:2 pulldown. Pure Cinema Smooth will present every single input signal @ 60Hz with frame interpolation (zero pulldown and a "soap opera" effect like 120Hz LCDs).
IF you send your Kuro a 1080p/24 signal, it WILL display it @ 72Hz (with 3:3 pull down) in Pure Cinema OFF and Advance. The ONLY difference between Pure Cinema OFF and Advance is that Advance will extract 24fps material out of 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i signals. AGAIN Pure Cinema OFF and Pure Cinema Advance are IDENTICAL when it comes to a 1080p/24 signal.

IF you use Pure Cinema Standard with a 1080p/24 signal, it WILL display it @ 60Hz with 3:2 pulldown.

IF you use Pure Cinema Smooth with a 1080p/24 signal, it WILL display it @ 60Hz and frame interpolation with ZERO pulldown. That's right ZERO pulldown.



IMPORTANT: USE THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW IN THIS POST AND IGNORE THE INSTRUCTIONS WITHIN THE ZIP (PDF and README)!

---> INSTRUCTIONS PROVIDED BY KCinWhitby CAN BE DOWNLOADED AT THE END OF THIS POST <---

FIRST STEP: YOU SHOULD WRITE DOWN YOUR DISPLAY'S INDIVIDUAL FACTORY SET CUTS/GAINS VALUES (FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE BELOW):

NOTE 1: This Display Profile defaults the RGB Highs/Lows Controls to 500 each, THESE ARE NOT YOUR FACTORY SET VALUES!!!!

NOTE 2: The REFRESH Button on this Display Profile will not Read/Get the currently set/factory set RGB Highs/Lows (or INPUT, AV SELECTION, PURE CINEMA), follow the procedure below to Read/Get the currently set/factory set RGB Hishs/Lows!

1) With the Display in Standby/Off: Press the POWER ON Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile (wait a few seconds for the Display to Power On).
2) Press the CALIBRATION ON Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.
3) Move the "A/V SELECTION" slider to the right 2 times until it reads 'A/V Selection 3' (AV Selection: Movie).
4) Press the SEND button next to the "A/V SELECTION" slider.
5) Move the "PURE CINEMA" slider to 0 (Off).
6) Press the SEND button next to the "PURE CINEMA" slider.
7) Press Mute on the Display's Remote Control until you see the menu called "Panel Factory (+).
8) Press Enter on the Display's Remote Control.
9) Use the up or down arrow to navigate until you see "Panel-2 ADJ (+).
10) Press Enter on the Display's Remote Control.
11) Write down (AND SAVE THESE SETTINGS IN A SAFE PLACE) the Factory Set values for: R-HIGH, G-HIGH, B-HIGH, R-LOW, G-LOW, B-LOW.
12) Press the CALIBRATION OFF Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.
13) Press the POWER OFF Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.

Follow the Instructions below and do start the calibration procedure with the Display in Standby/Off.

---> Some step-by-step instructions and a few settings by D-Nice below (originally posted here (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2045&postcount=56)).

Step-by-Step Instructions by D-Nice:

DON'T SKIP ----> WRITE DOWN YOUR FACTORY SET RGB HIGHS/LOWS (FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE ABOVE)!!!!



Turn the panel on
Set the A/V Selection to Movie with the following settings:

Picture:
AV Selection: Movie <--- DO THIS
Contrast: 40
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: R1
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema:
Film Mode: Off <--- DO THIS
Text Optimization: Off

Power Save Mode: Off <--- DO THIS
Orbiter: Mode 2
Room Light Sensor: Off <--- DO THIS


Set you BD player (PS3???) to output a 1080i signal <--- DO THIS
Load the BD DVE Hd Basics disc (or your pattern source) and navigate to the appropriate test patterns.
Open ControlCAL and load the NE 9G display profile.
Under ControlCAL's Settings tab (MENU/SETTINGS), uncheck "Auto Send" and check off "Error Dialogs".
DID YOU WRITE DOWN YOUR FACTORY SET RGB HIGHS/LOWS BY FOLLOWING THE PROCEDURE ABOVE?

Press the "CALIBRATION ON" button.
Move the "A/V SELECTION" slider to the right 2 times until it reads 'A/V Selection 3' (AV Selection: Movie).
Press the SEND button next to the "A/V SELECTION" slider. <--- DO THIS
Move the "PURE CINEMA" slider to 0 (Off).
Press the SEND button next to the "PURE CINEMA" slider. <--- DO THIS
With your owner's remote, press the Mute button twice which should display "Panel Factory (+)" in the lower display bar on your 5020's screen.
Press the Enter button on your display's Remote Control.
Press the up arrow on the navigation control (in the center of the remote) until you see "PANEL-2 ADJ (+)".
Write down your original factory set gains/cuts (instructions above) or if needed, reset all RGB control to the orginal factory settings (511,511,500???) and begin calibration (verify that you are still in Movie mode by pressing the SEND button next to "A/V SELECTION" slider (lower bar on the display will read "S03" if you are in Movie mode.
Begin calibration (adjust the RGB-Highs/RGB-Lows using the sliders, remember to press the SEND button next to each slider when you want to send a value to the display). NOTE: You can enable Auto Send (MENU/SETTINGS) so each time the slider is moved the new value will be sent to the display automatically.
Once you are satisfied with your calibration, write down your adjusted RGB values and press the "SAVE" button on the ControlCAL utility.
Your display will flicker and you be prompted to power off the display
Power off the display per the Main Power Switch on the back of your 5020/6020. <--- SEE PIC BELOW FOR LOCATION
Wait 1 minute and power back on your display.
You will be greeted with a menu asking to select 'Home" or "Retail". Choose "Home".
Reselect your input per the remote.
Re-enter the following settings:

Picture:
AV Selection: Movie
Contrast: 40
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: R1
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema:
Film Mode: Off
Text Optimization: Off

Power Save Mode: Off
Orbiter: Mode 2
Room Light Sensor: Off


Make sure the room light is set to off!!!!!
Take measurements of Movie mode and post the results.
IMPORTANT: USE THE INSTRUCTIONS ABOVE IN THIS POST AND IGNORE THE INSTRUCTIONS WITHIN THE ZIP (PDF and README)!


Please, no permission is given to host the Display Profile anywhere else!
DOWNLOAD:
Download ControlCAL (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1)
Display Profile Attached Below

Thanks to D-Nice for making this possible. ;)

9G Pioneer Master Power Switch Location Picture Courtesy of Chadmark09:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm71/chadmak09/015-3.jpg?t=1231342412


9G Non-Elite Display Profile Pics:
http://i37.tinypic.com/2qitl08.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/1zl9hyc.jpg

Please, no permission is given to host the Display Profile anywhere else!

Can't download the file? Register to view/download attachments. It's free! (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/register.php)

[DFul4d]

Thanks for posting this!

[baya-N78]

This is great news for us who own a 6020! What else will I be needing to do a calibration my self? I have the DVE HD Basics, can I use this with the controlcal as a test pattern?

[Rabid1]

I'm excited to calibrate my 6020FD! I will be purchasing the software in a couple of days when my Keyspan arrives.

Quick question: After loading the profile, do you make any changes, or just send all the parameters as loaded?

Thanks,

Rick

Edit: I've since learned from Turbe, there are no parameters in the profile. These may be coming from D-Nice in the future.

[Dahlsim]

I have question about the global effect of calibrating the XX20 Grayscale for a single A/V mode such as the movie mode.

1) Is it accurate to say a grayscale calibration to D65 for the Kuro Non-Elite movie mode would likely result in a slightly cooler but more 'accurate' grayscale for the non-movie A/V modes?

In other words if you end up moving the whitepoint from from say 6350 to 6504 along with calibrating each window do you then move the other A/V modes by the exact same relative amount ( +154) ?

2) Would the "automatic" A/V modes, Optimum & Dynamic, be unaffected by global change to grayscale since they makes their own adjustments dynamically or would those modes also be operating from the same global grayscale?

[DisplayHarmony]

2) Would the "automatic" A/V modes, Optimum & Dynamic, be unaffected by global change to grayscale since they makes their own adjustments dynamically or would those modes also be operating from the same global grayscale?

It's global, just like the 8G Non-Elites.
All modes would be affected as the SM RGB controls are global.
The RGB controls on the 9Gs are just like the 8Gs....global. So when you calibrate, say, Movie mode to D65, All of the other A/V modes grayscale will be affected. Game mode's grayscale will be higher than the default which is up there anyway (8500K+).

[Dahlsim]

It's global, just like the 8G Non-Elites.

Thanks for the reply and quotes. That part sounds pretty cut and dry then.

From what I can gather you should end up with a cooler but more accurate grayscale on ALL av modes including the non-adjustable modes. What made me question a bit if global was all modes was watching the performance monitor settings of Optimum mode and how it adjusts individual RGB dynamically along with several other settings not all of which are the user adjustible settings.

The other thing was D-Nice's quote (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14465409#post14465409) that adjusting the movie mode grayscale would "distort" the grayscale of the other A/V modes which raises the question of the whether the end result would still be a more accurate grayscale for all mode

It would distort the other mode's stock grayscale
Thanks a lot for replying D-Nice, but I have a question, for example if I did this:

- Calibrated Movie Mode to an almost perfect gray-scale (using controlcal to access the SM and the required calibration hardware)


What would happen to the rest of the modes gray-scale and settings ? (i.e Game, Sport..etc)

Because from what I understand, unlike the Elite 9Gs, you can calibrate only 1 mode in the Non-Elites, so I'm not sure how it would effect the rest of the modes.


The use of the word "distort" implies that all of the other A/V modes maybe somewhat worse while the movie mode would of course be improved. That's the 2nd part of my question.

Would we expect the new global grayscale to be simply cooler wrt to the non-movie A/V modes but overlaying a more accurate grayscale in general or would they also be "distorted" to a somewhat worse state because the grayscale was not calibrated in relation to that A/V mode?

Cooler and but a bit better or cooler and a bit worse?

[D-Nice]

Look at it like this:

Each mode is hardcoded with a specific color temp mode which means each mode was setup with an offset to the global RGB controls in the SM. We know that Movie is the only mode that uses the Low color temp. So if you calibrate Movie mode with the global RGB controls, all other modes would be distorted from their original hardcoded offsets because the global RGB controls have been modified. On an 8G NE this really would not be a problem as you could just set each mode to use a Low color temp. However, on the 9G NEs you do not have that ability.

No to speak specifically on the term "distort", yes they would be distorted. I never checked to see if they became bluer, greener, or reder, but they probably would be more blue than anything else.


Thanks for the reply and quotes. That part sounds pretty cut and dry then.

From what I can gather you should end up with a cooler but more accurate grayscale on ALL av modes including the non-adjustable modes. What made me question a bit if global was all modes was watching the performance monitor settings of Optimum mode and how it adjusts individual RGB dynamically along with several other settings not all of which are the user adjustible settings.

The other thing was D-Nice's quote (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14465409#post14465409) that adjusting the movie mode grayscale would "distort" the grayscale of the other A/V modes which raises the question of the whether the end result would still be a more accurate grayscale for all mode



The use of the word "distort" implies that all of the other A/V modes maybe somewhat worse while the movie mode would of course be improved. That's the 2nd part of my question.

Would we expect the new global grayscale to be simply cooler wrt to the non-movie A/V modes but overlaying a more accurate grayscale in general or would they also be "distorted" to a somewhat worse state because the grayscale was not calibrated in relation to that A/V mode?

Cooler and but a bit better or cooler and a bit worse?

[Dahlsim]

Look at it like this:

Each mode is hardcoded with a specific color temp mode which means each mode was setup with an offset to the global RGB controls in the SM. We know that Movie is the only mode that uses the Low color temp. So if you calibrate Movie mode with the global RGB controls, all other modes would be distorted from their original hardcoded offsets because the global RGB controls have been modified. On an 8G NE this really would not be a problem as you could just set each mode to use a Low color temp. However, on the 9G NEs you do not have that ability.

No to speak specifically on the term "distort", yes they would be distorted. I never checked to see if they became bluer, greener, or reder, but they probably would be more blue than anything else.

Your explanation in terms of offsets clears it up some for me, appreciate the reply. If the offsets remain the same for each A/V mode then it would seem that they would be offset against a more accurate global grayscale.

Of course I can see how the net result could be sort of "potluck" as to whether it represents an improvement or not for each mode since we don't really know how accurate each modes offsets were to begin with in terms of achieving good Mid to High tempatures.

Then again if the grayscale is not too far off to begin with the net change could be minimal. Your Mid could become a little more Mid-high etc. but we should be looking at relatively modest tempature change it appears. Good thing the instructions tell us to write down the original settings so the calibration could always be rolled back in the worst case.

This is great news for us who own a 6020! What else will I be needing to do a calibration my self? I have the DVE HD Basics, can I use this with the controlcal as a test pattern?

You can adjust by eye against the pattern and get better, but for the most precision you would need the light meters and one of the calibration software apps listed above.

[hifi_hound]

I just picked up ControlCal and CalMAN + i1pro. I've been trying to calibrate my panel, and was able to calibrate very accurately down to 30%, but I can't seem to balance out the 20% value. The red and blue channels are about 5% high, but no matter how far I adjust there values, they don't seem to move much. Beyond this problem the bigger problem I'm running into is that the color temperature in the calibration setting screen is different than the color temperature when not in calibration mode. Yes, I have sent the command in the calibration mode to change to movie mode (3) and visually watch as the gray window changes to a warmer color. So, everything seems to work as intended, and the gray balance looks beautiful and reads around 6500 accross the scale when I'm through calibrating. The problem comes after I save the settings and power off as instructed, when I power back up and select movie mode and put up the same grayscale patterns the color temperature and settings are out of balance. The color temperature reads much closer to 6100 and not 6500 as it reads in calibration mode. I've checked my settings in the service menu, and they are all there and saved. The color temperature just seems to be different in calibration mode vs. regular mode. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong, but with the shifts going on in and out of the service menu, I'm not sure how to accurately calibrate my panel. Has anyone else run into anything like this?

[DisplayHarmony]

hifi_hound,

Do you have auto send enabled? If not, when you move AV Selection and Pure Cinema Sliders to the setting you want, are you pressing the send button next to the slider?

What Pure Cinema value are you using? What Input are you calibrating and what signal are you inputting (1080p/60, 1080p/24, 1080i etc.)? What did you select when the Home / Retail Menu came up?

Can you post your exact step by step with values used and ControlCAL config setup (i.e. 1, 2, 3 etc.)?

[hifi_hound]

Hi, thanks for the response. I'm using DVE HD DVD version through a Toshiba A35. It is set to output up to 1080/24. I'm not sure what it is actually outputting, but it is the same test pattern both in and out of the service menu. My A35 is hooked up to an Onkyo 905 with the video set to pass through. All hook-ups are HDMI.

Now, as far as the calibrating goes, I'm starting with the TV off, and turning it on through the ControlCAL software. I then hit the calibration button and the service menu pops up. I'm not using Autosend as I do not know how that works or if I should be using it. I then move the AV slider to number 3 and hit send. The gray pattern visibly changes to a much warmer color which seems to coincide with movie mode, so all seems to be working correctly. I then move to the calMAN software and take a reading of the 80% Gray window. My initial settings were R-HIGH=462, G-HIGH=518, B-HIGH=500, R-LOW=500, G-LOW=500, B-LOW=500. I then adjust the R-HIGH and B-HIGH until the colors are balanced. After adjusting the HIGH settings I move to the 20% window and try to adjust the R-LOW and the B-LOW which both read at 105% to approximately 90% for the G-LOW. I've tried moving the sliders up and down to see how the graph reacts, and either way it seems I have to put the colors way out of whack just to get the point into the outer circle. I am pressing send after each move.

I seemed to have it close with low settings at R-LOW=778, G-LOW=500, B-LOW=727. This seems like a fairly extreme move. When I get it close, it is usually time to reinitialize the i1Pro, and then it seems to read differently, and I have to start over. In the end I was able to get a pretty even reading right in the bullseye from 80% to 30%, but not at the 20% window.

My calibrated settings read R-HIGH=467, G-HIGH=518, B-HIGH=573, R-LOW=500, G-LOW=500, B-LOW=500. I ended up leaving the low settings because I couldn't really see much changing with all the different moves. Okay, so now that I'm through calibrating I hit the save button and the the TV says it is saving and then tells me to power off the TV. I use the power off button within ControlCAL to turn off the TV.

When I turn the TV back on it asks me whether to run Retail or Home power settings. I select Home and then it wants me to program the tuner which I am not using so I exit out and select input 4 which is the input I've been trying to calibrate. When I run the exact same gray pattern windows they are all much dimmer and the color temp reads around 6100 across the different grayscale percentages. These same patterns read 6500 in the service menu. I can see a noticeable shift in the grayscale when I go in and out of the service menu.

Anyway when I go back in the service menu and scroll to the panel 2 settings, all of the settings I saved appear in the menu, so everything seems to have worked the way it was supposed to, but it is not translating to the screen out of calibration mode. If I go back in the service menu and take readings in the movie mode it reads 6500 and in balance. I'm not sure what to do at this point.

Admin EDIT: Post layout changed since it was too hard to read as one large paragraph.

[DisplayHarmony]

You left out an important step. What did you select for PURE CINEMA?

To enable Auto Send, check it under Edit in the Top Menu. When Auto Send is enabled, you don't have to press the Send Button next to the control and it makes calibration faster when moving the rgb-highs/lows - you can even use your keyboard's right and left arrow keys after selecting the control with your mouse. Even with Auto Send enabled, you can also use the Send Buttons to 're-send' the value/setting if you want.

Try this:

AV SELECTION: 3 (Movie)
PURE CINEMA: 1 (Standard)

Set your A35 to output 1080p/60 for this run (make sure to disable 1080p/24) for this test.

Also, when posting about your calibrated rgb-highs/lows, please get in the habit of posting them as offsets to your factory set values

i.e.


R-HIGH Factory Settings: 468, new calibrated setting: 480, post this as R-HIGH: +12.

B-HIGH Factory Settings: 492, new calibrated setting: 484, post this as B-HIGH: -8.

[hifi_hound]

Okay, thanks. This is my first time calibrating, so I'm just learning the ropes. I'll try what you said and report back. Just out of curiosity how does the Pure Cinema affect the grayscale? I believe mine was set to 0.

[Rabid1]

OK, my keyspan has arrived, and I've purchased a laptop (under guise that it's for my wife).

Now I'm ready for ControlCal!!!

Are there any offsets available for the novice owner of a 6020?

Thanks,

Rick

[DisplayHarmony]

Here are offsets for plus green panels (serial numbers starting with HEPM):

R High: +13
G High: 0
B High: +63


R Low: 0
B Low: 0
G Low: 0

[DisplayHarmony]

Information - fyi
You can only calibrate Movie mode to use Pure Cinema Off/Standard/Smooth or Advance by itself. You cannot calibrate to use all Pure Cinema modes. If you choose to go the Pure Cinema Advance route, you have to send the panel a 1080p/24 signal to properly calibrate and save your work.

[davewolfs]

Information - fyi

Can you reference where this was originally posted. Also, what is the ideal pure cinema mode?

Thank you,

Dave

[glenned]

Okay, thanks. This is my first time calibrating, so I'm just learning the ropes. I'll try what you said and report back. Just out of curiosity how does the Pure Cinema affect the grayscale? I believe mine was set to 0.

I don't know if this applies to the 8G and 9G NE Kuro's, but the NE Pio. plasmas prior to them had the same problem. Greyscale patterns were a different color temp when measured while in the Service Menu, as compared to outside of it.

The solution was to take into account the difference when adjusting cuts and gains in the service menu. It takes a couple of cycles of adjusting in the service menu, then exiting the SM to read the results before you get the greyscale calibrated.

No one was ever able to explain to me why they functioned this way. The paradigm I used to explain it to myself was that there was a color caste to the service menu and it colored the greyscale patterns.

Your display is not accurately calibrated unless it is at D65 in the normal user mode. The Pio plasmas are the only displays I have seen that behave this way.

From your post, it sounds like the 8G and 9G work the same way.

As to your question about PUre Cinema, Pure Cinema controls how the video processing does deinterlacing. Deinterlacing has nothing to do with greyscale and in itself has no affect on the greyscale calibration.

However, some displays have different memories for different scan rates and resolutions. The deinterlacing controls and other video processing functions determine the scan rate and resolution. In those displays, calibrating the display for a 480P signal will create a memory that the display will only use when it receives a a 480P signal. In those displays you must create a seperate calibration for each resolution that you wish to send to that particular input.

It sounds as if the 9Gs are saving the calibration/user settings based on the setting of the Pure Cinema controls. If this is so, then this aspect of its performance is very odd and very flawed.

So I wonder, if you have to calibrate with a test pattern sent at 24P (when the Pio is set to Pure Cinema Advanced) then what happens when you send the plasma a 1080i signal that originated from video while watching normal TV? Is the set not going to be calibrated? What happens if you switch to a different Pure Cinema mode? Is the sent no longer going to be calibrated, also? It is hard for me to understand how this set could be designed to function this way.

Glenn

[jkcheng122]

if i have a 5020, can i simply change the file name to read 5020 instead of 6020?

[ad5]

I have a 6020 set to Movie mode and use the settings posted by D-Nice. I am happy with the results.
But I wonder, what improvements would I notice if I installed ControlCAL and calibrated my set following the guidelines posted in this thread? What specific improvements would I notice in image quality, if any?
Thanks in advance for any answer.

[DisplayHarmony]

if i have a 5020, can i simply change the file name to read 5020 instead of 6020?

You could rename the filename but the profiles title would'nt be changed.

I have a 6020 set to Movie mode and use the settings posted by D-Nice. I am happy with the results.
But I wonder, what improvements would I notice if I installed ControlCAL and calibrated my set following the guidelines posted in this thread? What specific improvements would I notice in image quality, if any?
Thanks in advance for any answer.

As Dnice said, "you will be able to achieve an identical grayscale compared to the Elite.". Does your set have any hint of green or red etc. in the whites. This can be corrected easily.

[jkcheng122]

what user settings should be used while doing the grayscale/color calibration? do i need to bump user settings to default?

anyone know if the test patterns in DVE blu-ray is in 24fps?

[jkcheng122]

please include the fact that a DB9 female-to-female serial cable is needed to use ControlCAL with pioneer TVs since this is a Pioneer TV thread. i was half way through the Calibration for Dummies page before i realized i both the keyspan adapter and the pio have male serial connections. now i gotta run to the store tomorrow and fetch a cable and do the grayscale calibration.

[jkcheng122]

what user settings should be used while doing the grayscale/color calibration? do i need to bump user settings to default?

anyone know if the test patterns in DVE blu-ray is in 24fps?

would like someone to chime in on this one. as i've just ran the calibration. while the deltaE under hcfr grayscale all came to be 3 or under for 20IRE to 100IRE while in service menu, the numbers did not hold up as well when i went back out of service menu using either the default user settings nor my original settings.

[Dahlsim]

jkcheng122,

I think right now the ControlCal Kuro Non-Elite users that were calibrating have settled on their solution (finished their DIY or scheduled a pro) and are not actively watching the boards.

The calibrators such as D-Nice, David Abrams and others are doing these professionally and it appears staying pretty busy so it may be best to email or PM people and point them to this thread. In addition to D-nice and Turbe you might try a few of users in this board that have successfully done their calibrations (I never finished since I scheduled David Abrams) such as LBDiver.

[jkcheng122]

Here are some pics from my before and after calibration via HCFR/Eye-One LT/ControlCAL.

It's rather odd, while my deltaE had decreased, color temperature and gamma are farther from reference than before calibration.

DeltaE before:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/fubzbbcirp.jpg

DeltaE after:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/eqlliasqjs.jpg

RGB Levels
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/ykcpkquzlw.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/ykcpkquzlw.jpg)

Luminance
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/gelciuroql.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/gelciuroql.jpg)

Gamma
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/adxjgbujmy.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/adxjgbujmy.jpg)

Color Temperature
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/qbngfexigp.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/qbngfexigp.jpg)

CIE Chart
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/ddvlidmije.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/ddvlidmije.jpg)

[jkcheng122]

since red is looking a little high and blue a little low, what i intend to do is calibrate red to about 95-97% and blue to 100-102% to compensate for the difference coming out of SM.

really have no explanation why gamma went down the way it did, dropping from an avg of 2.19 to 2.10.

color temperature also seems to be lower and further away from 6500k =(

[jkcheng122]

calibrated some more tonight and came out with these results after compensating for the differences between Service Menu and Normal viewing.

deltaE before:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/fubzbbcirp.jpg

deltaE after 2:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/eqlliasqjs.jpg

deltaE after 3:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/rjyazxzezi.jpg

RGB Levels:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/hmhopejzyc.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/hmhopejzyc.jpg)

Luminance:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/jsafpjowal.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/jsafpjowal.jpg)

Gamma:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/lmadlqhska.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/lmadlqhska.jpg)

Color Temperature:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/xidhqqmngu.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/xidhqqmngu.jpg)

CIE Chart:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/jmkrarzcff.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/jmkrarzcff.jpg)

the deltaE's are closer to zero now, but still having issues with the gamma being lower.

[D-Nice]

I hate to tell you this, but the Display LT isn't a very reliable meter when it comes to taking measurement over a period of a few days.

Since you are using that meter, I recommend that you let it warm up on your display for at least 1 hour before attempting to take any measurements. Also make sure you are doing the initial setup of the dark measurement on a opaque black surface after the one hour warm up.

[jkcheng122]

I hate to tell you this, but the Display LT isn't a very reliable meter when it comes to taking measurement over a period of a few days.

Since you are using that meter, I recommend that you let it warm up on your display for at least 1 hour before attempting to take any measurements. Also make sure you are doing the initial setup of the dark measurement on a opaque black surface after the one hour warm up.

can you give me some examples of opaque black surfaces? currently i lay it on top of my black cd player. as for warming up, i leave the meter on the screen for at least 30min before calibration.

eyeone pro is too expensive. are there any other consumer level meters you can suggest if the LT isn't adequate.

[D-Nice]

can you give me some examples of opaque black surfaces? currently i lay it on top of my black cd player. as for warming up, i leave the meter on the screen for at least 30min before calibration.Inside of a DVD case. And you need to leave it on the screen for an hour.

eyeone pro is too expensive. are there any other consumer level meters you can suggest if the LT isn't adequate.The only others I would recommend would be the Chroma5 or DTP-94 with the latter being extremely hard to find.

[Turbe]

You may want to consider the X-Rite Chroma 5. Check the Notices Section above each Forum Page for a Special CalMAN / Chroma 5 / ControlCAL Bundle. Since you already have ControlCAL, you would receive a $25 Rebate back (takes up to 30 days) - best price anywhere. :thumbsup:

[jkcheng122]

thanks for the info guys. money is a bit tight right now so i'll make do with what i have so far. will try leaving the meter on the plasma for an hour before calibration next time. is putting it in the lower corner of the display enough to warm it up?

[D-Nice]

thanks for the info guys. money is a bit tight right now so i'll make do with what i have so far. will try leaving the meter on the plasma for an hour before calibration next time. is putting it in the lower corner of the display enough to warm it up?Place it in the center of the screen.

[jkcheng122]

Place it in the center of the screen.

say i do all that, and still end up with low gamma, what do i need to tweak to bring gamma up across all IREs?

[jkcheng122]

how do i find out how many hours the display has logged?

[D-Nice]

say i do all that, and still end up with low gamma, what do i need to tweak to bring gamma up across all IREs?
The gamma on the 6020 will not get any better than 2.1. A variance of +-0.3 between IREs is perfectly fine.

[D-Nice]

how do i find out how many hours the display has logged?Second page of the panel factory menu.

[jkcheng122]

The gamma on the 6020 will not get any better than 2.1. A variance of +-0.3 between IREs is perfectly fine.

i see. thanks, i think i'm pretty good on my calibrations then for now.

i will run calibrations again once the set's break-in period is complete.

one more question regarding controlcal settings.

say i saved the following settings to achieve the numbers shown in deltaE 3:
R-High: +35 (535)
G-High: 0 (500)
B-High: +25 (525)
RGB-Low: all 0

the next time i go into service menu, the numbers show 500 for all settings. does this mean the settings have reverted to default or those 500 are in reference to the previous saved numbers. meaning if i add another 25 to R-High, am i in essence setting R-High to 560 or at 525 relative to original settings?

[D-Nice]

So you are saying that your RGB settings have defaulted back to their original numbers or the SM automatically set them all to 500?

i see. thanks, i think i'm pretty good on my calibrations then for now.

i will run calibrations again once the set's break-in period is complete.

one more question regarding controlcal settings.

say i saved the following settings to achieve the numbers shown in deltaE 3:
R-High: +35 (535)
G-High: 0 (500)
B-High: +25 (525)
RGB-Low: all 0

the next time i go into service menu, the numbers show 500 for all settings. does this mean the settings have reverted to default or those 500 are in reference to the previous saved numbers. meaning if i add another 25 to R-High, am i in essence setting R-High to 560 or at 525 relative to original settings?

[jkcheng122]

So you are saying that your RGB settings have defaulted back to their original numbers or the SM automatically set them all to 500?

that is what i'm wondering, i will need to check the settings again via going to the SM w/o going through ControlCAL to verify.

controlcal will read 500 for all settings each time it turns on the panel and calibration on is clicked. i just don't know if the 500 meant having gone back to default or the 500s now represent my previous saved settings.

[jkcheng122]

after several hours of calibration last night, i found out the following:

1. ControlCAL does not remember last saved settings and will always start off at 500 for each RGB-High setting. The display however remains at last saved setting, so it is important to write down the gains/cuts before you SAVE so you know what settings you are currently at if you want to go from current saved settings instead of starting over from 500 across the board.

2. Grayscale settings does not effect Movie mode... even when i set red to 300 (-200) and blue to 700 (+200), i still get the same 103% red, 99% green, and 95% blue across the IREs when checking grayscales under Movie mode. by chance i flipped through the other settings and noticed they were extremely blue. that's when i realized the settings weren't effecting Movie mode.

all this time we had thought grayscales were different in SM and normal viewing, turns out the reason for this is b/c once you come out of SM Movie mode grayscale goes back to default. the results seem right as my tv's original settings for RGB-High were 515/511/500 (+15/+11/+0), conforming to the extra % seen.

it looks like the reviewers might be right in saying even in the service menu you can't calibrate grayscale, tho it only applies to Movie mode and PC=Standard/Advance.

3. the calibrated results also does not carry over to other PureCinema settings. after i calibrated for Standard (results below), my results can only be seen when PC is set to OFF. when i go to Advanced or Standard it goes back to the default blueish look. Smooth seems to retain the new settings.

Very odd finds imo. i hope others who had a chance to calibrate the 9G non-elites can share their experiences. i wrote down my current settings for Standard mode on a paper but dont have it with me, will post the settings later.

Here are the results after calibration:

deltaE Movie mode (PC=Advance):
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/kerbekhxrf.jpg

deltaE Standard mode (PC=Off):
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/uyyuvdchqm.jpg

RGB Levels Movie:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/hpoblnalsi.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/hpoblnalsi.jpg)

RGB Levels Standard:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/nofjmylvvo.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/nofjmylvvo.jpg)

Luminance Movie:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/cakxvremug.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/cakxvremug.jpg)

Luminance Standard:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/nzuzjrgksf.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/nzuzjrgksf.jpg)

Gamma Movie:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/xyzyslwmjn.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/xyzyslwmjn.jpg)

Gamma Standard:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/ebugfgfqen.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/ebugfgfqen.jpg)

Color Temperature Movie:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/nioyekeppg.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/nioyekeppg.jpg)

Color Temperature Standard:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/socdjpnzkk.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/socdjpnzkk.jpg)

[jkcheng122]

Limited to 10 images, so here're the CIE charts

CIE Chart Movie:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/hzsvrmurde.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/hzsvrmurde.jpg)

CIE Chart Standard:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/ietgtzatqe.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/ietgtzatqe.jpg)

Under Standard my color temperature and RGB Levels are closer to reference than Movie mode, but Gamma (way off!) and Luminance are off. Not exactly sure how to read the CIE chart, looks like i have to zoom in a lot more to get a good read, but seems pretty similar between the two modes.

[DisplayHarmony]

after several hours of calibration last night, i found out the following:

1. ControlCAL does not remember last saved settings and will always start off at 500 for each RGB-High setting. The display however remains at last saved setting, so it is important to write down the gains/cuts before you SAVE so you know what settings you are currently at if you want to go from current saved settings instead of starting over from 500 across the board.

2. Grayscale settings does not effect Movie mode... even when i set red to 300 (-200) and blue to 700 (+200), i still get the same 103% red, 99% green, and 95% blue across the IREs when checking grayscales under Movie mode. by chance i flipped through the other settings and noticed they were extremely blue. that's when i realized the settings weren't effecting Movie mode.

all this time we had thought grayscales were different in SM and normal viewing, turns out the reason for this is b/c once you come out of SM Movie mode grayscale goes back to default. the results seem right as my tv's original settings for RGB-High were 515/511/500 (+15/+11/+0), conforming to the extra % seen.

it looks like the reviewers might be right in saying even in the service menu you can't calibrate grayscale, tho it only applies to Movie mode and PC=Standard/Advance.

3. the calibrated results also does not carry over to other PureCinema settings. after i calibrated for Standard (results below), my results can only be seen when PC is set to OFF. when i go to Advanced or Standard it goes back to the default blueish look. Smooth seems to retain the new settings.

Controlcal doesn't remember settings even in the ISF Interface on the Elites. What Controlcal can do is read/get the current settings from the display using the Refresh buttons for the Elites. The '500' values are just the control's default values in the profile.

However:
It doesn't sound like you read the instructions and readme enclosed with the display profile. It clearly states that you cannot use the Refresh buttons for the 9g non-elite display profile to read/get the current cuts/gains settings from the display (including initially getting the factory set values). I posted the steps in Post #2 (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1602&postcount=2) on how to get the current values/factory set values. It's easy to do.

Also, the grayscale does save outside the sm as many are doing it. Again, I don't think you read the instructions or through this Thread. You must choose if you are going to use Pure Cinema Off/Standard/Smooth or Pure Cinema Advance, you cannot calibrate for all Pure Cinema Modes. :nono:

If you decide to use Pure Cinema Advance, you must input a 1080p/24 signal. Most choose AV Selection Movie and Pure Cinema Standard.


http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1752&postcount=18
You can only calibrate Movie mode to use Pure Cinema Off/Standard/Smooth or Advance by itself. You cannot calibrate to use all Pure Cinema modes. If you choose to go the Pure Cinema Advance route, you have to send the panel a 1080p/24 signal to properly calibrate and save your work.

[jkcheng122]

Controlcal doesn't remember settings even in the ISF Interface on the Elites. What Controlcal can do is read/get the current settings from the display using the Refresh buttons for the Elites. The '500' values are just the control's default values in the profile.

However:
It doesn't sound like you read the instructions and readme enclosed with the display profile. It clearly states that you cannot use the Refresh buttons for the 9g non-elite display profile to read/get the current cuts/gains settings from the display (including initially getting the factory set values). I posted the steps in Post #2 (http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1602&postcount=2) on how to get the current values/factory set values. It's easy to do.

Also, the grayscale does save outside the sm as many are doing it. Again, I don't think you read the instructions or through this Thread. You must choose if you are going to use Pure Cinema Off/Standard/Smooth or Pure Cinema Advance, you cannot calibrate for all Pure Cinema Modes. :nono:

If you decide to use Pure Cinema Advance, you must input a 1080p/24 signal. Most choose AV Selection Movie and Pure Cinema Standard.

http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1752&postcount=18

i read the readme clearly and never used the Refresh button as i was told not to. i didnt state the controlcal not saving settings as a problem, i'm simply stating what i found for others who may be interested in knowing.

i did choose purecinema advance while calibrating for AV Selection Standard, and the results only carried over to Standard with PC Off. PC on Standard also did not have the saved settings. i used DVE HD Basics on blu-ray, if the patterns on the disc arent sent via 1080p/24, then where would i be able to find a 1080p/24 pattern to use?

maybe it's a problem with my panel, but i can say from experience that the grayscale setting changes made in SM were not carried over to normal viewing. this only applies to Movie mode. calibration results clearly show this to be the case at least for my particular display.

again, i read the instructions, in fact i read them each time i did the calibrations. what i listed were simply what my experiences were from hours of calibration last night coming in and out of SM and rechecking grayscales time and time again.

[D-Nice]

The problem isn't your 6020FD or ControlCAL. The problem is you failing to read and follow instructions.

When you press the "Calibration On" button, you are in the SM with a A/V selection set to Factory. Factory = Standard Mode = Performance Mode. So if you want to calibrate Movie mode, you HAVE to change the A/V mode which is defined in bullet 8 on the PDF to 3 and press the Send button next to that slider (or do what it says in bullet 11).

Once you are in Movie mode, within the SM, then you go about using the RGB sliders to adjust the grayscale. Your final task after you have properly calibrated Movie mode is to hit the "Save" button (which is bullet 12).

Anyone can calibrate Movie mode....IF they follow directions.
after several hours of calibration last night, i found out the following:

1. ControlCAL does not remember last saved settings and will always start off at 500 for each RGB-High setting. The display however remains at last saved setting, so it is important to write down the gains/cuts before you SAVE so you know what settings you are currently at if you want to go from current saved settings instead of starting over from 500 across the board.

2. Grayscale settings does not effect Movie mode... even when i set red to 300 (-200) and blue to 700 (+200), i still get the same 103% red, 99% green, and 95% blue across the IREs when checking grayscales under Movie mode. by chance i flipped through the other settings and noticed they were extremely blue. that's when i realized the settings weren't effecting Movie mode.

all this time we had thought grayscales were different in SM and normal viewing, turns out the reason for this is b/c once you come out of SM Movie mode grayscale goes back to default. the results seem right as my tv's original settings for RGB-High were 515/511/500 (+15/+11/+0), conforming to the extra % seen.

it looks like the reviewers might be right in saying even in the service menu you can't calibrate grayscale, tho it only applies to Movie mode and PC=Standard/Advance.

3. the calibrated results also does not carry over to other PureCinema settings. after i calibrated for Standard (results below), my results can only be seen when PC is set to OFF. when i go to Advanced or Standard it goes back to the default blueish look. Smooth seems to retain the new settings.

Very odd finds imo. i hope others who had a chance to calibrate the 9G non-elites can share their experiences. i wrote down my current settings for Standard mode on a paper but dont have it with me, will post the settings later.

[jkcheng122]

The problem isn't your 6020FD or ControlCAL. The problem is you failing to read and follow instructions.

When you press the "Calibration On" button, you are in the SM with a A/V selection set to Factory. Factory = Standard Mode = Performance Mode. So if you want to calibrate Movie mode, you HAVE to change the A/V mode which is defined in bullet 8 on the PDF to 3 and press the Send button next to that slider (or do what it says in bullet 11).

Once you are in Movie mode, within the SM, then you go about using the RGB sliders to adjust the grayscale. Your final task after you have properly calibrated Movie mode is to hit the "Save" button (which is bullet 12).

Anyone can calibrate Movie mode....IF they follow directions.

sigh guys, you really think i'm that dumb?

i did go to Movie mode via ControlCAL after hitting Calibration On and i'm saying by doing that the calibrated results did not carry over to normal viewing. i did read somewhere that the grayscale settings are universal and would effect all AV selections, which is true for me to an extent since Movie mode was not effected. if i had a camcorder i'd post a video.

even when i took 200pts off red and added 200pts to blue, while in 3 of the AV Selection bar, Movie mode remained the same white with 104% red and 95% blue. meanwhile every other AV selection setting are exhibiting bluish white.

i can understand if i misinterpreted the instructions, what you guys believe i failed to do i did not. what you guys have mentioned are pretty easy to follow instructions.

[D-Nice]

Ok, so tell me, what happens after you press the Save button? Specifically what happens on your panel?

sigh guys, you really think i'm that dumb?

i did go to Movie mode via ControlCAL after hitting Calibration On and i'm saying by doing that the calibrated results did not carry over to normal viewing. i did read somewhere that the grayscale settings are universal and would effect all AV selections, which is true for me to an extent since Movie mode was not effected. if i had a camcorder i'd post a video.

even when i took 200pts off red and added 200pts to blue, while in 3 of the AV Selection bar, Movie mode remained the same white with 104% red and 95% blue. meanwhile every other AV selection setting are exhibiting bluish white.

[jkcheng122]

Ok, so tell me, what happens after you press the Save button? Specifically what happens on your panel?

a screen pops up saying something to the tune of saving settings, please turn panel off.

when i see this message i use the remote to turn the tv off. i wait about 10 to 20 seconds before turning it back on again to check the results.

[D-Nice]

a screen pops up saying something to the tune of saving settings, please turn panel off.

when i see this message i use the remote to turn the tv off. i wait about 10 to 20 seconds before turning it back on again to check the results.And when you are in Movie mode, within the SM, When you select A/V selection 3 and press the "Send" button beside it, what is the code that populates at the botton of the screen?

[DisplayHarmony]

Please use these settings and post results (after pressing Calibration On):


Select Input and press the small send button next to the Input control. For now, input a 1080p/60 or 1080i signal.

Select AV Selection 3 (movie) and press the small send button next to the AV Selection control.

Select Pure Cinema 1 (standard) and press the small send button next to the Pure Cinema control.

Adjust cuts/gains controls (pressing the small send button next to each control).

Press the Save button and power off the display using the displays remote control.


Please post results.

[jkcheng122]

And when you are in Movie mode, within the SM, When you select A/V selection 3 and press the "Send" button beside it, what is the code that populates at the botton of the screen?

the code is s03.

[jkcheng122]

Please use these settings and post results (after pressing Calibration On):

Please post results.

i will turn 1080p/24 mode off on the ps3 and try this tonight.

heh probably wont get a chance to do this, actually wanna watch some movies tonight =)

[D-Nice]

i will turn 1080p/24 mode off on the ps3 and try this tonight.Actually try these instructions:


Turn the panel on
Set the A/V to Movie with the following settings:
Picture:
AV Selection: Movie
Contrast: 40
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: R1
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Off
Text Optimization: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: Mode 2

Room Light Sensor: Off
Set you BD player (PS3???) to output a 1080i signal
Load the BD DVE Hd Basics disc and navigate to the appropriate test patterns
Open ControlCAL and load the NE 9G display profile
Under the Settings tab, uncheck "Auto Send" and check off "Error Dialogs"
Press the "Calibration On" button
Move the "A/V Selection" slider to the right 2 times until it reads 'A/V Selection 3'
Press the send button next to the "A/V Selection" slider
With your owner's remote, press the Mute button twice which should display "Panel Factory (+)" in the lower display bar on your 5020's screen
Press the Enter button on your remote
Press the up arrow on the navigation control (in the center of the remote) until you see "PANEL-2 ADJ (+)"
Reset all RGB control to the orginal settings (511,511,500???) and begin calibration (verify that you are still in Movie mode by pressing the Send button next to "A/V Selection" slider (lower bar on the display will read "S03" if you are in Movie mode
Begin calibration
Once you are satisfied with your calibration, write down your adjusted RGB values and press the "save" button on the ControlCAL utility.
Your display will flicker and you be prompted to power off the display
Power off the display per the main switch on the back of you 5020
Wait 1 minute and power back on your display
You will be greeted with a menu asking to select 'Home" or "Retail". Choose "Home"
Reslect your input per the remote
Re-enter the following settings:
Picture:
AV Selection: Movie
Contrast: 40
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: R1
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Off
Text Optimization: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: Mode 2

Room Light Sensor: Off
Make sure the room light is set to off!!!!!
Take measurements of Movie mode and post the results

[jkcheng122]

Actually try these instructions:


Turn the panel on
Set the A/V to Movie with the following settings:
Picture:
AV Selection: Movie
Contrast: 40
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: R1
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Off
Text Optimization: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: Mode 2

Room Light Sensor: Off
Set you BD player (PS3???) to output a 1080i signal
Load the BD DVE Hd Basics disc and navigate to the appropriate test patterns
Open ControlCAL and load the NE 9G display profile
Under the Settings tab, uncheck "Auto Send" and check off "Error Dialogs"
Press the "Calibration On" button
Move the "A/V Selection" slider to the right 2 times until it reads 'A/V Selection 3'
Press the send button next to the "A/V Selection" slider
With your owner's remote, press the Mute button twice which should display "Panel Factory (+)" in the lower display bar on your 5020's screen
Press the Enter button on your remote
Press the up arrow on the navigation control (in the center of the remote) until you see "PANEL-2 ADJ (+)"
Reset all RGB control to the orginal settings (511,511,500???) and begin calibration (verify that you are still in Movie mode by pressing the Send button next to "A/V Selection" slider (lower bar on the display will read "S03" if you are in Movie mode
Begin calibration
Once you are satisfied with your calibration, write down your adjusted RGB values and press the "save" button on the ControlCAL utility.
Your display will flicker and you be prompted to power off the display
Power off the display per the main switch on the back of you 5020
Wait 1 minute and power back on your display
You will be greeted with a menu asking to select 'Home" or "Retail". Choose "Home"
Reslect your input per the remote
Re-enter the following settings:
Picture:
AV Selection: Movie
Contrast: 40
Brightness: 0
Color: +1
Tint: R1
Sharpness: -15

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Off
Text Optimization: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: Mode 2

Room Light Sensor: Off
Make sure the room light is set to off!!!!!
Take measurements of Movie mode and post the results

will do when i get a chance, probably sometime over the weekend. thank you for all your help.

you mention putting the ps3 on 1080i, by this you mean i should check off 1080p in the ps3 video settings? will i still choose 1080p under advanced video test patterns in DVE HD Basics?

[D-Nice]

will do when i get a chance, probably sometime over the weekend. thank you for all your help.

you mention putting the ps3 on 1080i, by this you mean i should check off 1080p in the ps3 video settings?Set the PS3 to output 1080i (I don't know where the setting is, but I do know it's there).

will i still choose 1080p under advanced video test patterns in DVE HD Basics?Yes, choose the 1080p patterns, although it really doesn't matter.

[jkcheng122]

if the changes made to grayscale is universal across all av selections, shouldnt Movie mode be effected regardless of whether i calibrated via Standard or Movie mode?

[jkcheng122]

when it says R1 for Tint, does not mean i move the middle block one notch to the Right? or does it mean 1 notch toward Red, which would be left?

[D-Nice]

if the changes made to grayscale is universal across all av selections, shouldnt Movie mode be effected regardless of whether i calibrated via Standard or Movie mode?No. You have to calibrate Movie mode as I've listed. If you miss any one of those sets you will NOT be successful.

[D-Nice]

when it says R1 for Tint, does not mean i move the middle block one notch to the Right? or does it mean 1 notch toward Red, which would be left?Towards Red 1 click

[jkcheng122]

Thanks D-Nice,

I followed your instructions and got things to work finally. I think what got me thinking the settings were stuck is b/c every time I re-checked my calibrated grayscales I set PC to Advance. My grayscales for Movie mode PC Off is looking very nice now. I will post results tomorrow. The ColorHCFR file can be found here (http://dodownload.filefront.com/12077440//c3ea2b84501d7b9f842ba307362e49babf75b2ccfcd7765149 c6f5422a5a8d2e26dee4d49d2d9614). Pictures and graphs will follow. I am very happy right now.

I need to mention tho. The new settings do not carry over to Standard and Advance PureCinema modes, I can see the grayscales shift toward red when I switch PC modes. I don't know why this is, but I will simply keep PC at the Off position for the forseeable future.

Again, thanks to all those who gave me the information for my DIY calibration.

Another question for D-Nice,
Should I keep my contrast/brightness/color/tint settings as per what you listed or use DVE disc to redo the settings? Also the Grayscale Calibration page by Kal mentioned setting contrast to 30ftL to 40ftL using the 100% pattern. With contrast set to 40 I'm looking at higher than 40ftL will I lose any white details if I lower contrast a bit to around 35ftL?

[DFul4d]

I think followed the instructions to the letter and everything was going as planned, but when I turned the panel back on after saving and powering off, I didn't see the select Home or Retail option? Is that normal?

[jkcheng122]

I think followed the instructions to the letter and everything was going as planned, but when I turned the panel back on after saving and powering off, I didn't see the select Home or Retail option? Is that normal?

happened to me also, as long as your new settings are saved it should be fine.

[jkcheng122]

Results from last night's calibration:

A/V: Movie
Pure Cinema: Off

deltaE:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/yjanliepvd.jpg

RGB Levels:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/lkwrnajqfh.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/lkwrnajqfh.jpg)

Color Temperature:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/zotztvmsjd.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/zotztvmsjd.jpg)

Gamma:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/pjkgxjuyhz.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/pjkgxjuyhz.jpg)

CIE Chart:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/iskddmknwl.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/iskddmknwl.jpg)

Luminance:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/awxlczemab.thumb250.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/151338/awxlczemab.jpg)

[DisplayHarmony]

jkcheng122
Okay, after some lecture from D-Nice and some more tweaking, I found out why I couldnt get settings to carry over to Movie mode.

The problem isn't that settings won't carry over to Movie mode, but they won't carry over to any mode with PureCinema set to Standard or Advance.

After calibrating tonight and rechecking the results under Movie mode with PC set to Off, I'm happy to say my grayscale are now very accurate. When I turn on PC to either Standard or Advance, I'd notice the whites shift toward Red as per the factory settings. Not really much of a problem, I'll simply keep PureCinema off.

Will post grayscale results tomorrow.

As I've said in the other forum, thanks again D-Nice and all the others that helped out.

D-Nice
You cannot use any of the PC modes beyond Off when sending the panel a 1080p/24 signal (although it really doesn't matter as the panel will still display it at 72Hz). Send it another other type of signal and you will be able to use PC Standard and Smooth without a "greener" or "redder" grayscale.

Question
So now for the ultimate question, was it worth it? Are you actually seeing more depth, detail etc. etc. having done this?

jkcheng122
actually yes. i did notice my whites were pushing red slightly before the calibration. since the calibrated settings didnt carry over to Pure Cinema Standard/Advance modes, i can easily see the before and after differences of my calibration.

so it is well worth it. and see those charts so close to reference numbers is a major plus also. it makes me feel i get more than i paid for, kind of like overclocking a cpu.

i also learned a lot about calibration, even with just entry level tools and software. i do also want to add that the set's grayscales are fairly accurate coming out of the box.

1. Eye-One LT: $119.99
2. ControlCAL: $25.00
3. ColorHCFR: Free
4. Serial Female-to-Female Cable: $3.00
5. Keyspan USB Serial Adapter: $28.29 (found out later not only did i not need this as i used the serial header port on the motherboard of my htpc, but a Bytecc adapter can be had for $10 :mad:)
6. learning experience and knowing your display is now more accurate than it was when you bought it: Priceless

[Turbe]

Those could have been quoted you know. :D

[Dahlsim]

Results from last night's calibration:

A/V: Movie
Pure Cinema: Off


Nice job and congrats jkcheng. You executed the gameplan from our PM's perfectly. ;)

Besides pulling off a nice DIY calibration you also managed to extract the most detailed instructions yet out of D-Nice. :clap:

[Dahlsim]

Set the PS3 to output 1080i (I don't know where the setting is, but I do know it's there).


Settings | Display Settings | HDMI (or other connection) | Custom | 1080i (uncheck 720p & 1080p)

[jkcheng122]

Settings | Display Settings | HDMI (or other connection) | Custom | 1080i (uncheck 720p & 1080p)

yeah got a confession to make on this one, i stuck with 1080p for the calibration :D

i did turn off the 1080p/24 function on the PS3 when i did the calibration.

[jkcheng122]

you also managed to extract the most detailed instructions yet out of D-Nice. :clap:

i'm patting myself on the back for that one hehe. i don't think D-Nice has anything to worry about tho. having done this calibration myself i'm actually more interested in having a pro do this since with their better equipment and expertise would do much more accurate job than i can.

i'm actually pretty certain if i run the grayscales again my Eye-One LT will give me different results. i dont want to spend another hour with the colorimeter attached to the middle of my screen while watching tv just to find out the results are different from last calibration even w/o touching any settings.

[jkcheng122]

before and after calibration shots taken from a Nikon D80

the calibrated pic has been rotated clockwise a few degrees to look straight.

Before:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/150017/hhrpjqszkm.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/150017/hhrpjqszkm.jpg)

After:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/150017/bdgjhujqnk.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/150017/bdgjhujqnk.jpg)

My previous TV, Samsung 720p DLP, not calibrated:
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/150017/skisekaixb.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/150017/skisekaixb.jpg)

there's definitely a difference in the pre and post calibrated shots for the 5020. still seems too red compared to the samsung tho, but i'm not sure how it's supposed to look originally.

[D-Nice]

i'm patting myself on the back for that one hehe. i don't think D-Nice has anything to worry about tho.I'm not your typical calibrator. I'm all for DIY calibration.

having done this calibration myself i'm actually more interested in having a pro do this since with their better equipment and expertise would do much more accurate job than i can.Based on what you just accomplished, you're better of getting a Chroma5 or i1pro with CalMAN. It's more cost effective to DIY as your display will require multiple calibrations during it's lifetime.

[luvnhatesony]

your display will require MULTIPLE calibrations during it's lifetime.

No kidding... So when is my panel due for another calibration? :D

[D-Nice]

No kidding... So when is my panel due for another calibration? :DDepends on how much you use it :) Probably somewhere between April and August of 2009.

[luvnhatesony]

Depends on how much you use it :) Probably somewhere between April and August of 2009.

Cool. I and my 111 will most certainly welcome you back for another session :)

[Turbe]

Based on what you just accomplished, you're better of getting a Chroma5 or i1pro with CalMAN. It's more cost effective to DIY as your display will require multiple calibrations during it's lifetime.

We have good CalMAN Bundles available now on this site.. you're get the best price right here as a calibrationforums.com member (even if you have ControlCAL now)... :thumbsup:

[jkcheng122]

We have good CalMAN Bundles available now on this site.. you're get the best price right here as a calibrationforums.com member (even if you have ControlCAL now)... :thumbsup:

it'll be a while before i can drop that kind of dough on calibration equipment/software. will most likely go with the Chroma 5. just bought a eD a3-300 sub :D

[DFul4d]

I have always enjoyed my 6020, but something about it just seemed a little off. The blacks are amazing and the picture is very nice, but it just seemed a little off. I tried to get adjusted to movie mode, thinking that maybe my previous viewing was the problem. Maybe I should have gotten the Elite?

Maybe I was the problem?

Well, after some calibration help from D-Nice (full calibration coming soon), I am completely in love with my 6020. Flesh tones finally look accurate (or close enough that it does not bother me.) The dim picture of the "stock" movie mode has been upgraded to a natural looking picture with much more pop. I had previously been substituting sharpness to enhance movie mode, but now I am able to back it almost all the way down. I am really happy with my 6020 now and I am glad I was able to save the money by not springing for the Elite.

If you find movie mode a little dim, I highly recommend getting your set calibrated, or at least purchase ControlCal and some inexpensive calibration equipment for yourself. The 6020 can produce the picture you want. Trust me, you are not the problem ;)

[jkcheng122]

I have always enjoyed my 6020, but something about it just seemed a little off. The blacks are amazing and the picture is very nice, but it just seemed a little off. I tried to get adjusted to movie mode, thinking that maybe my previous viewing was the problem. Maybe I should have gotten the Elite?

Maybe I was the problem?

Well, after some calibration help from D-Nice (full calibration coming soon), I am completely in love with my 6020. Flesh tones finally look accurate (or close enough that it does not bother me.) The dim picture of the "stock" movie mode has been upgraded to a natural looking picture with much more pop. I had previously been substituting sharpness to enhance movie mode, but now I am able to back it almost all the way down. I am really happy with my 6020 now and I am glad I was able to save the money by not springing for the Elite.

If you find movie mode a little dim, I highly recommend getting your set calibrated, or at least purchase ControlCal and some inexpensive calibration equipment for yourself. The 6020 can produce the picture you want. Trust me, you are not the problem ;)

congrats on your calibration Dful4d. i think anyone can clearly see a diff between the before and after calibration shots of my 5020fd. i just wish more ppl know more about standard whites, 6500k, and what not. but of course if i mention grayscale calibration to anyone it's just nerdtalk.

[RichB]

I am new to this.

I used some posted settings to just see if I could follow instructions.
I guess I can. Thank to DNice and Turbe for making this possible.

I could not get my ASUS MB serial port to work but my USB to serial converter works great. Not sure why, all the settings were the same :confused:

I would like to adjust Movie and Standard or Performance mode.
Movie obviously for critical viewing and Standard and Performance for daytime sports viewing. I sometimes find that this is a good idea.

Anyone know what APL does?

Thanks,

Rich

[jkcheng122]

my guess would be the serial port connector is connected to the wrong port on the motherboard. either that or something in the bios needs to be adjusted.

i don't believe you can make separate adjustments for each AV mode. the grayscale settings are universal across all modes.

[RichB]

my guess would be the serial port connector is connected to the wrong port on the motherboard. either that or something in the bios needs to be adjusted.

i don't believe you can make separate adjustments for each AV mode. the grayscale settings are universal across all modes.


That may be, D-Nice said you can calibrate Performance or Standard but I suppose that does not mean you can calibrate two settings independantly.

- Rich

[Dahlsim]

For those considering grayscale calibration I'm finding that the non-movie modes look better all the way around after the grayscale calibration based on movie mode.

They are of course cooler but only by a few hundred Kelvins but at the same time the flattend grayscale responses really seem to carry well to all of the other A/V modes. With a little adjustment to brightness and contrast detail resolution appears improved slightly across the board.

A nice advantage is being able to compare other modes such as Game, Standard and Performance to a well calibrated movie mode and then making user adjustments to color etc. using the A/B against the accurate move mode.

You can come out with clean looking, brighter (other modes brighter than movie mode) high tempature settings for alternatives to apply to your content. It really makes up for not having temperature settings.

Standard mode is also interesting if you want to apply a bit of visible edge enhancement to some content (yes some may want an occasional increase in apparent sharpness).

Alternatively you can use standard mode calibraton and bring the temperature down toward D65 for all your A/V mode. I'll examine that more later but right now I'd say the grayscale calibration for movie mode helps all the modes overall if you don't mind them getting somewhat cooler.

[Dahlsim]

That may be, D-Nice said you can calibrate Performance or Standard but I suppose that does not mean you can calibrate two settings independantly.

- Rich


You can if you don't mind using Control Cal to swap out Grayscale settings when you want to use the other mode.

I'm hoping Turbe will give an update to make this even easier. That would be fantasitic for Non-Elite owners. :thumbup:

[RichB]

I have been getting used to ControlCal and just making sure I understand the knobs and such.

I have been following D-Nice's instructions to the letter but an odd thing happens. When I begin a calibration, the colors are more saturated in PC mode 3 during the calibration than they are when I save the settings, Power Off, Power On, hit Home and reset all my settings?

I have ControlCal but how can I possibly calibrate if the settings change so much from those shown during the calibration?

Am I missing something?

Thanks,

Rich

[jkcheng122]

I have been getting used to ControlCal and just making sure I understand the knobs and such.

I have been following D-Nice's instructions to the letter but an odd thing happens. When I begin a calibration, the colors are more saturated in PC mode 3 during the calibration than they are when I save the settings, Power Off, Power On, hit Home and reset all my settings?

I have ControlCal but how can I possibly calibrate if the settings change so much from those shown during the calibration?

Am I missing something?

Thanks,

Rich

this is the trouble i ran into when i first started. i've come to realize i simply couldnt find the right combination to get grayscale settings to save for Advance. so i simply calibrated using the PC mode 0, which is off, and play my blu-ray movies using PC Off instead of Advance. i notice the grayscale change slightly switching between Off and Advance after calibration.

[RichB]

I have been getting used to ControlCal and just making sure I understand the knobs and such.

I have been following D-Nice's instructions to the letter but an odd thing happens. When I begin a calibration, the colors are more saturated in PC mode 3 during the calibration than they are when I save the settings, Power Off, Power On, hit Home and reset all my settings?

I have ControlCal but how can I possibly calibrate if the settings change so much from those shown during the calibration?


this is the trouble i ran into when i first started. i've come to realize i simply couldnt find the right combination to get grayscale settings to save for Advance. so i simply calibrated using the PC mode 0, which is off, and play my blu-ray movies using PC Off instead of Advance. i notice the grayscale change slightly switching between Off and Advance after calibration.

I saw that and that is not the problem I have.
Here is what I am doing:

Set all settings as D-Nice suggested including PC=0.
Set the to movie mode (3) and S03 on the screen.
The instant I turn calibration on the image gets much darker and the colors more saturated. Changing to Movie mode makes no difference.

Is there something wrong with the screen?
I do not think I inadvertently changed anything.
I even tried reseting my panel to the ones that I wrote done:

R-High: 503
G-High: 498
B-High: 500
R-Low: 500
G-Low: 501
B-Low: 500
ABL: 109

I am not sure how to proceed.

- Rich

[jkcheng122]

I saw that and that is not the problem I have.
Here is what I am doing:

Set all settings as D-Nice suggested including PC=0.
Set the to movie mode (3) and S03 on the screen.
The instant I turn calibration on the image gets much darker and the colors more saturated. Changing to Movie mode makes no difference.

Is there something wrong with the screen?
I do not think I inadvertently changed anything.
I even tried reseting my panel to the ones that I wrote done:

R-High: 103
G-High: 498
B-High: 500
R-Low: 500
G-Low: 501
B-Low: 500
ABL: 109

I am not sure how to proceed.

- Rich

R-High of 103 seems way off, those were neither my default settings nor my calibrated settings.

[RichB]

R-High of 103 seems way off, those were neither my default settings nor my calibrated settings.

That was a typo.
It is really 503.

Thanks,

Rich

[jkcheng122]

were you able to at least calibrate PC Off with no problems?

[DisplayHarmony]

I even tried reseting my panel to the ones that I wrote done:

R-High: 103
G-High: 498
B-High: 500
R-Low: 500
G-Low: 501
B-Low: 500
ABL: 109

I am not sure how to proceed.

- Rich


Wait a minute, did you change the ABL setting in the SM (you said you Reset to the ones your wrote down and you listed ABL 109). You should only follow the instructions to change the RGB Highs/Lows (or to check their values), check hours or change the side mask level. If you mess with other settings in the SM, you venture into unknown area and like using the profile itself, you do so at your own risk.

Anytime you change things in the SM it can be dangerous. The profile is probably as safe as it can get but you must follow the instructions - Curiosity of the SM killed the Cat. :devil:

I understand there is a desire to see what else is in there, so for anyone just starting, don't be a Columbus in the SM :please: there is nothing really useful and many things that can cause harm.

Now, back to helping with your problem:

Set all settings as D-Nice suggested including PC=0.
Set the to movie mode (3) and S03 on the screen.
The instant I turn calibration on the image gets much darker and the colors more saturated. Changing to Movie mode makes no difference.


It sounds like you are missing a couple steps. Right after you press the Calibration On button, select the Input in ControlCAL, Set AV Selection to 3 and Pure Cinema to 0.

You have to set these outside the SM in the standard User Menu and then right after you press Calibration On, you set them with ControlCAL.

[RichB]

Wait a minute, did you change the ABL setting in the SM (you said you Reset to the ones your wrote down and you listed ABL 109). You should only follow the instructions to change the RGB Highs/Lows (or to check their values), check hours or change the side mask level. If you mess with other settings in the SM, you venture into unknown area and like using the profile itself, you do so at your own risk.

Anytime you change things in the SM it can be dangerous. The profile is probably as safe as it can get but you must follow the instructions - Curiosity of the SM killed the Cat. :devil:

I understand there is a desire to see what else is in there, so for anyone just starting, don't be a Columbus in the SM :please: there is nothing really useful and many things that can cause harm.


I have not altered any other settings wittingly, anyway.


It sounds like you are missing a couple steps. Right after you press the Calibration On button, select the Input in ControlCAL, Set AV Selection to 3 and Pure Cinema to 0.

You have to set these outside the SM in the standard User Menu and then right after you press Calibration On, you set them with ControlCAL.

I have done those steps. I have set them in before entering the SM and then set them with ControlCal. The problem is that these that the image is more saturated and darker. It is not that I cannot make changes. The problem is that it is not WYSIWYG so how can you calibrate.

Strangely enough, I have accidentally not gone into Panel 2 + mode just changed the settings and saved once and the setting took. This panel is brand new, I wonder if it has different firmware so it does not behave like the others out there?


- Rich

[RichB]

I wonder if my Panel is different from others.
It will remember settings from ControlCal without going into Panel modes:



With your owner's remote, press the Mute button twice which should display "Panel Factory (+)" in the lower display bar on your 5020's screen.
Press the Enter button on your display's Remote Control.
Press the up arrow on the navigation control (in the center of the remote) until you see "PANEL-2 ADJ (+)".


The versions in the Technical Info are:

Software Version: 0901--201
Hardware Version: 0x351

Is this what you folks are running?

Also, I can make adjustments turn Calibration Off, measure, turn Calibration on. Is that the way others are doing it?

- Rich

[Jeff_DML]

here are my original offsets

on my 5020

R-High = 513

all the rest 500

[timothydog76]

Another big thanks to D-Nice for the offset settings. I finally tracked down a computer with a 9 pin COM port and applied the settings yesterday to my 5020. I didn't want to spend $40 on the USB to serial adapter.

After applying the changes, I popped in my Planet Earth Blu Ray and watched the Mountains episode. I noticed right away that the white snow was actually white and not as dull. The blue sky seemed much more vibrant as well. Very happy with the results!

Here were my original RGB High/Low settings for reference:
R-High = 518
G-High = 506
B-High = 500
R-Low = 500
G-Low = 500
B-Low = 500

[timothydog76]

Here's an update after a couple days of watching with the new gray scale:

I'm finding that the whites do look better but I'm noticing that color (especially red) seems a little oversaturated. I ended up pulling back Color in the Picture settings from D-Nice's suggested +1 to about -4 to -5 and now it seems a little more realistic.

Anyone else having the same issue?

[DFul4d]

My RGB high values were 437, 518, 500

[Patrick]

Hi guys I think I may have made a bit of a mistake :oops: When going to check my original RGB values I hit save before existing. Now my calibration settings seem like they don't wanna take and I get an error dialog when I try to save. Help!
Edit: NM got it, looks great :D

[DisplayHarmony]

Hi guys I think I may have made a bit of a mistake :oops: When going to check my original RGB values I hit save before existing. Now my calibration settings seem like they don't wanna take and I get an error dialog when I try to save. Help!


:lesson:

:oops: is right... the instructions are step-by-step :(

I think you will be fine, you did write down your settings, right (by following each step - of course before you decided to become a rebel..:devil:)?

Try turning the Display off with the master power switch on the back. Wait a minute and turn it back on. If you get the Menu where you choose Home or Retail, choose Home.

Recheck your settings and let us know...

[Patrick]

Yup I wrote down my settings and the TV just needed to be off for a bit longer with the master reset button and it worked :D Lesson learned!

[RichB]

Yup I wrote down my settings and the TV just needed to be off for a bit longer with the master reset button and it worked :D Lesson learned!

That makes sense. I wait for the little red light inside the back to go out.

- Rich

[BK24]

Hi guys, this is a total beginner question so if it's covered somewhere else, I apologize in advance. Is the DVE disc required to properly change the offsets, etc... or can I use any dvd/blu-ray or is a dvd even required for that? I have the laptop and serial cable ready to go. I haven't D/L'ed controlcal yet, but plan to sometime this weekend. I'm just trying to maximize my 6020, but don't have a clue what I'm doing. (scary, I know.) I plan to follow turbe's instructions to the "T."
Thanks

[jkcheng122]

Hi guys, this is a total beginner question so if it's covered somewhere else, I apologize in advance. Is the DVE disc required to properly change the offsets, etc... or can I use any dvd/blu-ray or is a dvd even required for that? I have the laptop and serial cable ready to go. I haven't D/L'ed controlcal yet, but plan to sometime this weekend. I'm just trying to maximize my 6020, but don't have a clue what I'm doing. (scary, I know.) I plan to follow turbe's instructions to the "T."
Thanks

if you watch mostly HD material, you'll want a blu-ray calibration disc as it'd provide the proper color space (not sure if the right term) for calibration. the best option is to get the equipment listed in this guide (http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457). if you dont have a meter tho then you wont need a DVE disc at all, just use controlcal and follow instructions to set your offsets according one posted here.

just make sure you first copy down the default offsets, you can access them according to the instruction given in the first post.

FIRST STEP: YOU SHOULD WRITE DOWN YOUR DISPLAY'S INDIVIDUAL FACTORY SET CUTS/GAINS VALUES (FOLLOW THE PROCEDURE BELOW):

NOTE 1: This Display Profile defaults the RGB Highs/Lows Controls to 500 each, THESE ARE NOT YOUR FACTORY SET VALUES!!!!

NOTE 2: The REFRESH Button on this Display Profile will not Read/Get the currently set/factory set RGB Highs/Lows (or INPUT, AV SELECTION, PURE CINEMA), follow the procedure below to Read/Get the currently set/factory set RGB Hishs/Lows!

1) With the Display in Standby/Off: Press the POWER ON Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile (wait a few seconds for the Display to Power On).
2) Press the CALIBRATION ON Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.
3) Move the "A/V SELECTION" slider to the right 2 times until it reads 'A/V Selection 3' (AV Selection: Movie).
4) Press the SEND button next to the "A/V SELECTION" slider.
5) Move the "PURE CINEMA" slider to 0 (Off).
6) Press the SEND button next to the "PURE CINEMA" slider.
7) Press Mute on the Display's Remote Control until you see the menu called "Panel Factory (+).
8) Press Enter on the Display's Remote Control.
9) Use the up or down arrow to navigate until you see "Panel-2 ADJ (+).
10) Press Enter on the Display's Remote Control.
11) Write down (AND SAVE THESE SETTINGS IN A SAFE PLACE) the Factory Set values for: R-HIGH, G-HIGH, B-HIGH, R-LOW, G-LOW, B-LOW.
12) Press the CALIBRATION OFF Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.
13) Press the POWER OFF Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.

[schmoely]

Hi guys,

I am (or will be, in 8 days when it gets delivered) the proud owner of a 6020.

I am stepping up from an ISF-calibrated Sony RPTV (KDS-60A2020).

I will almost definitely get a pro in to calibrate my new panel but I was wanting to give it a go myself. So I've ordered all the gear (null modem/USB->Serial cable and ControlCal) and I had one question:

Do the calibration settings apply to all inputs (I will have a receiver and a PS3 feeding the panel HDMI ports), or will I need to repeat the process for each input?

Many thanks + thanks also for a fantastic online resource.

[D-Nice]

Do the calibration settings apply to all inputsIf you set all inputs to use the Movie A/V mode, then yes.

[jkcheng122]

Hi guys,

I am (or will be, in 8 days when it gets delivered) the proud owner of a 6020.

I am stepping up from an ISF-calibrated Sony RPTV (KDS-60A2020).

I will almost definitely get a pro in to calibrate my new panel but I was wanting to give it a go myself. So I've ordered all the gear (null modem/USB->Serial cable and ControlCal) and I had one question:

Do the calibration settings apply to all inputs (I will have a receiver and a PS3 feeding the panel HDMI ports), or will I need to repeat the process for each input?

Many thanks + thanks also for a fantastic online resource.

you should also feed just the receiver to the panel and ps3 to the receiver to take advantage of receiver's audio.

[schmoely]

you should also feed just the receiver to the panel and ps3 to the receiver to take advantage of receiver's audio.

Actually... I'm out of HDMI spaces on my receiver so rather than buying an HDMI switch, I optical out of the PS3 into the receiver, in a spare slot, and have my Harmony remote do all the whack device mode switching.

(Wow - just checked how cheap HDMI switches have gotten - I might as well buy one now!)

[jkcheng122]

Actually... I'm out of HDMI spaces on my receiver so rather than buying an HDMI switch, I optical out of the PS3 into the receiver, in a spare slot, and have my Harmony remote do all the whack device mode switching.

(Wow - just checked how cheap HDMI switches have gotten - I might as well buy one now!)

same thing happened to my friend, ran out of hdmi ports when he decided to build a htpc. instead of buying a switch he moved his satellite box to component + optical.

if you have such options i'd go that route as well since going hdmi with the ps3 means lossless audio on blu-ray. with other devices it makes no difference as far as i know.

[suzooki]

ok, i have read for the last 2 days, and am still confused about using the settings after breakin. my 6020 is on its 2nd day of breakin. when i get to 150hrs, i will be using the posted settings. i am a little confused about the offsets. i know controlcals default is 500. so if the offset is +13 do i move the slider to 13, or 513, or if my factory setting is 450 do i add 13 so send 463 on the slider? i am very confused. i have searched for the answer, but would like to sure. thanks

[jkcheng122]

ok, i have read for the last 2 days, and am still confused about using the settings after breakin. my 6020 is on its 2nd day of breakin. when i get to 150hrs, i will be using the posted settings. i am a little confused about the offsets. i know controlcals default is 500. so if the offset is +13 do i move the slider to 13, or 513, or if my factory setting is 450 do i add 13 so send 463 on the slider? i am very confused. i have searched for the answer, but would like to sure. thanks

offset should be taken from your tv's default values. in your case 463.

[suzooki]

offset should be taken from your tv's default values. in your case 463.

so i should move the slider to 463?

[jkcheng122]

so i should move the slider to 463?

yep

[vud911]

Can't wait till I give this a whirl. :)

[RichB]

Can't wait till I give this a whirl. :)

Can you please post your original settings including ABL?

Thanks,

Rich

[vud911]

errr, what is ABL?

[RichB]

errr, what is ABL?


ABL (Auto Brightness Limiter).
I did not intentionally change mine.
It is located in the menu where you will writing down the original settings for red, green, blue levels.

- Rich

[vud911]

R High - 487
G High - 483
B High - 500
R Low - 500
G Low - 500
B Low - 500
ABL - 111

These are my original settings.

[RichB]

R High - 487
G High - 483
B High - 500
R Low - 500
G Low - 500
B Low - 500
ABL - 111

These are my original settings.

My ABL was 109 so it sounds like I am OK.

Thanks,

- Rich

[jkcheng122]

R High - 487
G High - 483
B High - 500
R Low - 500
G Low - 500
B Low - 500
ABL - 111

These are my original settings.

this is why i'm waiting to have enough money to buy the chroma 5 + calman package. original settings are so diff set to set it's hard to believe d-nice's settings apply to everyone's set.

my originals are:
R High: 515
G High: 511
B High: 500

[D-Nice]

this is why i'm waiting to have enough money to buy the chroma 5 + calman package. original settings are so diff set to set it's hard to believe d-nice's settings apply to everyone's set.

my originals are:
R High: 515
G High: 511
B High: 500
I might sell you my Chroma5 that includes a CalMAN standard license. PM me an offer :)

[D-Nice]

My ABL was 109 so it sounds like I am OK.

Thanks,

- RichWhatevel you do, please do not touch the ABL setting. You will screw up your display.

[suzooki]

i just want too thank d-nice for his knowledge and turbe for his wonderful program. i do have a question though. right now i cant afford to hire a pro for calibration, but am wondering about the yellows on my 6020 being a little too orange. the reds are slightly pink also. can anyone recomend which drive i should be adjusting, and what direction? thanks for any responses.

[jkcheng122]

hm, yellow looking orange sounds like red push, but doesnt red looking like pink mean the opposite? i could be wrong of course. d-nice will be able to help you much better on this issue. i dont recommend tweaking grayscale based on what you see tho, too inaccurate. either use the offsets provided or get yourself a colorimeter.

if you have controlcal you can try the settings posted on the first page by DisplayHarmony:
Here are offsets for plus green panels (serial numbers starting with HEPM):

R High: +13
G High: 0
B High: +63


R Low: 0
B Low: 0
G Low: 0

[suzooki]

the more reading i do, it seems to me, adjusting the rgb wont correct my color. it sounds as if i will have to live with the inaccurate colors.i am currently using the offsets posted on the avs thread. i tried the offsets used for the 5020, and i def saw a green in the whites, so went back to the 6020 offsets. the whites are very nice, and shadows look good also, but the yellow is def too orange. maybe i will try the offsets posted in this thread.d-nice, would you care to offer any thoughts or comments? thanks

[jkcheng122]

ah colors, i was thinking grayscale for a sec there but i think getting grayscale correct still helps the colors. there are no service menu or any other tweaks for colors on the 5020/6020, for that you need to spring for the elite.

but looking at the calibration reports posted by d-nice at avsforum (can i link the thread here?) the color points arent so off that you'd see yellow looking like orange. i know it doesnt look that way on my 5020.

[suzooki]

who knows, maybe i am used to watching inaccurate colors on my 50" panny 9uk plasma.

[suzooki]

well i went with the plus green settings from this thread, and colors(to my eye's) are spot on. its amazing how minor changes of the offsets control the way colors appear. the whites look fantastic also. now, time to watch all my blu ray titles all over again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[KCinWhitby]

I'm trying to figure all of this out and I think I am getting it. I now know what cables to by. I just have to find them in Canada at a reasonable price. Anyone in Canada?

All I want to do is adjust the greyscale. I think someone referred to it as using D-Nice RGB offsets but I can't find them. Where would they be? If I want to only use D-Nice offsets, do I need to buy DVE HD Basics?

Questions when using Control Cal:

1) When I select and Input, am I choosing the input for the Blu-Ray player or the HD box? If I am hooked up to Input 6 when I do the calibration, what happens if I later change inputs. Will they be calibrated?

2) Do I need to use DVE HD basics (asked above) if I only want to use someone elses offsets?

3) What does Purecinema do? Why do we Calibrate it with it OFF? Aren't there times we want to use it when watching TV or playing a Blu-Ray?

4) My serial number starts with HFPM. Where do i find RGB offsets?
(also asked above)

5) When I set and offset in Control Cal and press send, what happens? How would you choose the correct R-high for instance without having someone elses guideline?

If some of these questions don't make sense, I can try to clarify what I mean.

I'm afraid to get started when I see other posters saying they spent numerous hours doing a calibration. I can't have the TV down that long, wife would kill me. LOL.

[jkcheng122]

I'm trying to figure all of this out and I think I am getting it. I now know what cables to by. I just have to find them in Canada at a reasonable price. Anyone in Canada?

All I want to do is adjust the greyscale. I think someone referred to it as using D-Nice RGB offsets but I can't find them. Where would they be? If I want to only use D-Nice offsets, do I need to buy DVE HD Basics?

Questions when using Control Cal:

1) When I select and Input, am I choosing the input for the Blu-Ray player or the HD box? If I am hooked up to Input 6 when I do the calibration, what happens if I later change inputs. Will they be calibrated?
i dont know if grayscale settings carry across all inputs. i use only one input and everything else is connected to the receiver so it's not an issue for me. i do believe there's one RGB setting that applies to all inputs and all a/v modes.

2) Do I need to use DVE HD basics (asked above) if I only want to use someone elses offsets?
no, it's only for ppl with colorimeters doing their own calibrations.

3) What does Purecinema do? Why do we Calibrate it with it OFF? Aren't there times we want to use it when watching TV or playing a Blu-Ray?
it's the setting for 2:3 or 3:3 pulldown. unfortunately RGB settings will not carry to these PureCinema settings. when you switch from PureCinema Off to Standard/Advanced, you essentially switch the RGB settings back to default.

4) My serial number starts with HFPM. Where do i find RGB offsets?
(also asked above)
below has link to list of settings for all types of Pioneer plasmas.

5) When I set and offset in Control Cal and press send, what happens? How would you choose the correct R-high for instance without having someone elses guideline?
follow the instructions given on the first page, 2nd post i believe. in fact, read it 3 times before you even think about going into the service menu. first and most important priority is copying down your default settings. you then simply add/subtract them from the offsets D-Nice provided, and hit Send.

for example, if your default settings for RGB-High are R=515, G=511, B=500, and D-Nice's offsets show R=-13, G=0, B=+49. then you'd enter R=502, G=511, B=549. and hit send at all 3 settings. keep in mind when you enter ControlCal it will display 500 for all 3 settings rather than your TV's default settings. so you need to take the offsets from your defaults and not the 500 shown under ControlCal

If some of these questions don't make sense, I can try to clarify what I mean.

I'm afraid to get started when I see other posters saying they spent numerous hours doing a calibration. I can't have the TV down that long, wife would kill me. LOL.

D-Nice's offsets are listed here: http://www.controlcal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=49
not sure if you have 6020 or 5020.

Since you're not doing your own calibration running colorimeter and software, it is very quick. just go in, do the offsets, and come out. It won't take long.

[KCinWhitby]

Thanks so much jkcheng. I have the 5020. It seems to be sounding easier and easier. Just a couple more questions for anyone that can answer:

1) So do a calibrate all inputs?

2) When i look at D-Nice offsets at http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135

the Pure Cinema still confuses me. He has the Pure Cinema set to Standard. Aren't we supposed to calibrate it at off? Wouldn't Standard set thte RGB back to default?

3) Does anyone know another brand of High Speed USB Serial Adapter that can be used? I can't seem to find the Keyspan one in Canada?

Thanks again,

[KCinWhitby]

Here are offsets for plus green panels (serial numbers starting with HEPM):

R High: +13
G High: 0
B High: +63


R Low: 0
B Low: 0
G Low: 0


Are there different offsets for serial number HFPM?

[jkcheng122]

Are there different offsets for serial number HFPM?
for 5020 it's all the same i believe. the serial number only comes into play on 60" models.

[jkcheng122]

Thanks so much jkcheng. I have the 5020. It seems to be sounding easier and easier. Just a couple more questions for anyone that can answer:

1) So do a calibrate all inputs?
i believe all inputs are same, if not just use the same offsets for all inputs.

2) When i look at D-Nice offsets at http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135

the Pure Cinema still confuses me. He has the Pure Cinema set to Standard. Aren't we supposed to calibrate it at off? Wouldn't Standard set thte RGB back to default?
just leave it on off. someone can chime in here if i'm wrong.

3) Does anyone know another brand of High Speed USB Serial Adapter that can be used? I can't seem to find the Keyspan one in Canada?
try http://www.directron.com/sbtusc1m.html. i can't guarantee it will work, but in theory it's the exact same device as the Keyspan. Directron does delivery to Canada. i got my keyspan from amazon, not sure if amazon.ca has any.

Thanks again,

answers in red

[suzooki]

does anyone know of what kind High Speed USB Serial Adapter that can be used? I can't seem to find the Keyspan one in Canada?

Thanks again,


i used a belkin one, and it worked fine

[jayzfelon]

Im a proud owner of 6020fd and my question is. To all people that have calibrated their sets using controlcal. do you think its worth it ? and second question is does it affect all av modes settings when you calibrate movie mode? I apologize if the questions have been ask. im very interested in calibrating my set and would like to know if its worth it.

[jkcheng122]

Im a proud owner of 6020fd and my question is. To all people that have calibrated their sets using controlcal. do you think its worth it ? and second question is does it affect all av modes settings when you calibrate movie mode? I apologize if the questions have been ask. im very interested in calibrating my set and would like to know if its worth it.

first one i'm not sure on as the difference isnt very noticeable, to the untrained eye there will be no detectable difference. but if you already have a laptop or a pc with its own display close enough to hook up to the tv, the cost really isnt much at all.

2nd question, yes.

edit: want to add that for non-elites, there're only 3 items you need to adjust in the service menu, so there really is no chance of messing it up. the improvement may be slight, but there's not much cost.

[jayzfelon]

first one i'm not sure on as the difference isnt very noticeable, to the untrained eye there will be no detectable difference. but if you already have a laptop or a pc with its own display close enough to hook up to the tv, the cost really isnt much at all.

2nd question, yes.

edit: want to add that for non-elites, there're only 3 items you need to adjust in the service menu, so there really is no chance of messing it up. the improvement may be slight, but there's not much cost.

Im familiar with calibrating and can sure tell the difference. but my questions is for those of you that have calibrated your sets if there is a difference on retaining the factory grayscale vs calibrating it. if i will see a huge improvement. kind a dont feel comfortable going thru the service menu if its not gonna be a huge difference and affecting all of the av modes as well for i switch to game and optimum modes at time depending on what i watch and play video games. My other question is will it screw up some of the av modes or will it make it better. if someone could take a before and after picture of a calibrated sets on movie mode it will be great.

I had an lg plasma before which i did a calibration and were very pleased with the results.

[jkcheng122]

Im familiar with calibrating and can sure tell the difference. but my questions is for those of you that have calibrated your sets if there is a difference on retaining the factory grayscale vs calibrating it. if i will see a huge improvement. kind a dont feel comfortable going thru the service menu if its not gonna be a huge difference and affecting all of the av modes as well for i switch to game and optimum modes at time depending on what i watch and play video games. My other question is will it screw up some of the av modes or will it make it better. if someone could take a before and after picture of a calibrated sets on movie mode it will be great.

I had an lg plasma before which i did a calibration and were very pleased with the results.

heh, i cna't answer this one, i use Movie mode for everything.

[DisplayHarmony]

there is a difference on retaining the factory grayscale vs calibrating it.

If you do a proper calibration (DIY or Pro), you will see a difference. You will most likely see a difference using the user posted settings and offsets that are around.

[schmoely]

Using an Eye-One display 2 and ColorHCFR I was able to move my original settings from:

R-High: 448
G-High: 509
B-High: 500

To the following offsets:

R-High: -23
G-High: 0
B-High: -25

Delta E for corresponding %gray:

0: 661
10: 20.6
20: 3.4
30: 0.8
40: 0.4
50: 0.7
60: 0.6
70: 0.6
80: 0.8
90: 0.7
100: 0.6

Kept contrast, color and tiny as recommended (I saw no discernable difference).

I ran the grey scale test while the sensor had been hugging the screen front for close to an hour of random Comedy Central. I subsequently, much to the ire of my girlfriend, re-ran it twice later on and got similar results (interestingly enough IRE 40 and above always measured < 1).

In short: very happy. Thank you so much!

[jkcheng122]

calibration results from chroma 5 + calman, i still got lots to learn about making reports for calman.

i ended up with:
R-High: 481 (from 515)
G-High: 519 (from 511)
B-High: 543 (from 500)

looks like from the results i need to move G-High back to default.

[jkcheng122]

did some more calibrating and also spent some time getting to know CalMAN.

results attached.

still wondering how to get the CalMAN logo .bmp file to be the background of the design.

my new calibrated SM settings are in the pdf file at the bottom.

[jkcheng122]

here are some pictures for comparison of pre and post calibration i did on my 5020FD with Chroma 5 meter and CalMAN software.

the pre-calibration pictures were taken by switching PureCinema to Advanced and post-calibration pictures taken with PureCinema at Off. since calibrated settings dont carry over to Advanced this is the quickest way to take screenshots of pre and post calibration results.

Post01
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/lrrwbblute.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/lrrwbblute.jpg)

Pre01
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/lwcedvefpa.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/lwcedvefpa.jpg)

Post02
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/onulbwlhsk.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/onulbwlhsk.jpg)

Pre02
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/lcqgnlsydm.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/lcqgnlsydm.jpg)

Post03
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/clqkpvwyvq.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/clqkpvwyvq.jpg)

Pre03
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/enugdcafav.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/enugdcafav.jpg)

Post04
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/tgjcbfzihe.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/tgjcbfzihe.jpg)

Pre04
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/yiobylvdll.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/yiobylvdll.jpg)

Post05
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/lcbgfufzuc.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/lcbgfufzuc.jpg)

Pre05
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/rpbdzeaqoi.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/rpbdzeaqoi.jpg)

[jkcheng122]

round 2 of shots.

Post06
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/sgmisnwxwm.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/sgmisnwxwm.jpg)

Pre06
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/dwwiekmqym.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/dwwiekmqym.jpg)

Post07
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/heqhsfiqiu.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/heqhsfiqiu.jpg)

Pre07
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/qhgbovgocg.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/qhgbovgocg.jpg)

[jkcheng122]

it's pretty clear the pre calibration pictures exhibit a noticeable red push that the calibration process took care of.

very happy with the results, i can put my keyspan away for a while now and enjoy the movies.

[KCinWhitby]

I managed to do the service menu adjustments with D-Nice offsets and I have to admit it took some time to figure out how to do it. Thanks TURBE for all your patience over the Holidays. I originally had a Null Modem cable as I thought I read that is what was needed. Not sure where I read it. Let me assure you that it is a Straight Through DB-9 Female to DB-9 Female that is needed. I got it at a local computer supplies shop and bought the other cable one at The Source by Circuit City. I could not fond the Keyspan as quickly as I wanted it. With the $25.00 for the diplay profile, the total was about $65.00. As soon as I had the right equipment it was pretty simple when I followed instructions. I used D-Nice offsets. I can't say I notice a huge difference as I found it to be pretty great before, but I am more comfortable knowing it is done. I went BluRay shopping and bought all kinds on sale. We watched Terminator 2 and Fantastic 4 -Silver Surfer and both were amazing in Bluray. Here are my original settings:

R-High: 507
G-High: 502
B-High: 500
R-Low: 500
G-Low: 500
B-Low: 500
ABL - 110 (I realize we should never adjust the ABL)

So after D-Nice settings, I am at:
R-High: 494
G-High: 502
B-High: 548
R-Low: 500
G-Low: 500
B-Low: 500

I'd love to know if this sounds about right. I'd also love to see other peoples before and after, especially ones that were professionally calibrated.

Kevin

[jkcheng122]

I managed to do the service menu adjustments with D-Nice offsets and I have to admit it took some time to figure out how to do it. Thanks TURBE for all your patience over the Holidays. I originally had a Null Modem cable as I thought I read that is what was needed. Not sure where I read it. Let me assure you that it is a Straight Through DB-9 Female to DB-9 Female that is needed. I got it at a local computer supplies shop and bought the other cable one at The Source by Circuit City. I could not fond the Keyspan as quickly as I wanted it. With the $25.00 for the diplay profile, the total was about $65.00. As soon as I had the right equipment it was pretty simple when I followed instructions. I used D-Nice offsets. I can't say I notice a huge difference as I found it to be pretty great before, but I am more comfortable knowing it is done. I went BluRay shopping and bought all kinds on sale. We watched Terminator 2 and Fantastic 4 -Silver Surfer and both were amazing in Bluray. Here are my original settings:

R-High: 507
G-High: 502
B-High: 500
R-Low: 500
G-Low: 500
B-Low: 500
ABL - 110 (I realize we should never adjust the ABL)

So after D-Nice settings, I am at:
R-High: 494
G-High: 502
B-High: 548
R-Low: 500
G-Low: 500
B-Low: 500

I'd love to know if this sounds about right. I'd also love to see other peoples before and after, especially ones that were professionally calibrated.

Kevin

that looks about right as my original settings were:
R-High: 515
G-High: 511
B-High: 500

i posted some before and calibrated pics above. not a professional calibration tho, but you can notice the redness is gone.

settings after are:
R-High: 495
G-High: 513
B-High: 552

[jayzfelon]

round 2 of shots.

Post06
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/sgmisnwxwm.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/sgmisnwxwm.jpg)

Pre06
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/dwwiekmqym.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/dwwiekmqym.jpg)

Post07
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/heqhsfiqiu.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/heqhsfiqiu.jpg)

Pre07
http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/qhgbovgocg.thumb500.jpg (http://static1.filefront.com/images/personal/j/jkcheng122/157070/qhgbovgocg.jpg)

thanks for the before and after pics. i see a huge difference and would like that but one of my question is still havent been answered. I switch to optimum when watching animations and game mode when playing games. I understand that all av modes are affected when you do a calibration. Does it make the other av modes better or does it make it bad? dont want to sacrifice some of the av modes to get a perfect calibrated movie mode.

[jkcheng122]

thanks for the before and after pics. i see a huge difference and would like that but one of my question is still havent been answered. I switch to optimum when watching animations and game mode when playing games. I understand that all av modes are affected when you do a calibration. Does it make the other av modes better or does it make it bad? dont want to sacrifice some of the av modes to get a perfect calibrated movie mode.

judging by how overly blue the other modes are, my guess is calibrating movie mode will make them worse since you're enhancing blue even more. however, since advanced purecinema mode puts the grayscales back to default settings, you could just switch the PureCinema mode when using the other av modes if you dont like the calibrated look for those modes.

[jayzfelon]

judging by how overly blue the other modes are, my guess is calibrating movie mode will make them worse since you're enhancing blue even more. however, since advanced purecinema mode puts the grayscales back to default settings, you could just switch the PureCinema mode when using the other av modes if you dont like the calibrated look for those modes.

Thank you for this answer. guess there is a work around. I have the same equipment as yours. Thank you for your help. now have to find me a usb to db9 adaptor.

[KCinWhitby]

for 5020 it's all the same i believe. the serial number only comes into play on 60" models.


Going back to this, these offsets for HFPM serial numbers are different than D-Nice offsets.

His were:

R-High: - 14
G-High: 0
B-High: +48

Any reason they are so different and which do you think I should have used?

[KCinWhitby]

I ran the grey scale test while the sensor had been hugging the screen front for close to an hour of random Comedy Central. I subsequently, much to the ire of my girlfriend, re-ran it twice later on and got similar results (interestingly enough IRE 40 and above always measured < 1).

In short: very happy. Thank you so much!


Chicks don't understand. My wife would watch any picture. LOL.

[jkcheng122]

Chicks don't understand. My wife would watch any picture. LOL.

i don't have a chick, but i did show my mom the pre and post calibration pictures so she'd understand what the hell i was doing. really wished i could share some of these experiences with dad but he past away too early.

[jkcheng122]

Going back to this, these offsets for HFPM serial numbers are different than D-Nice offsets.

His were:

R-High: - 14
G-High: 0
B-High: +48

Any reason they are so different and which do you think I should have used?

those are his settings for the 50" models i believe. what screen size do you have?

[jkcheng122]

Using an Eye-One display 2 and ColorHCFR I was able to move my original settings from:

R-High: 448
G-High: 509
B-High: 500

To the following offsets:

R-High: -23
G-High: 0
B-High: -25

Delta E for corresponding %gray:

0: 661
10: 20.6
20: 3.4
30: 0.8
40: 0.4
50: 0.7
60: 0.6
70: 0.6
80: 0.8
90: 0.7
100: 0.6

Kept contrast, color and tiny as recommended (I saw no discernable difference).

I ran the grey scale test while the sensor had been hugging the screen front for close to an hour of random Comedy Central. I subsequently, much to the ire of my girlfriend, re-ran it twice later on and got similar results (interestingly enough IRE 40 and above always measured < 1).

In short: very happy. Thank you so much!

did you mean B=+25?

[schmoely]

did you mean B=+25?

Neg, definitely B=-25.

Interesting to note that I purchased the panel *used* and I suspect the prior owner may have tampered with the service menu settings. The reason I say this is coz the TV came with an unpackaged null modem cable :)

(I have an HHPM serial unit)

[jkcheng122]

Neg, definitely B=-25.

Interesting to note that I purchased the panel *used* and I suspect the prior owner may have tampered with the service menu settings. The reason I say this is coz the TV came with an unpackaged null modem cable :)

(I have an HHPM serial unit)

5020 or 6020? i'd suspect with a 5020 -25 in B-High would screw things up pretty bad.

[KCinWhitby]

those are his settings for the 50" models i believe. what screen size do you have?

I have the 5020. Below is the the settings I am referring to that were posted earlier. I'm wondering if I should try it. My serial number is HFPM.

Here are offsets for plus green panels (serial numbers starting with HEPM):

R High: +13
G High: 0
B High: +63


R Low: 0
B Low: 0
G Low: 0

[jkcheng122]

I have the 5020. Below is the the settings I am referring to that were posted earlier. I'm wondering if I should try it. My serial number is HFPM.

Here are offsets for plus green panels (serial numbers starting with HEPM):

R High: +13
G High: 0
B High: +63


R Low: 0
B Low: 0
G Low: 0

where are you seeing the offsets for plus green 50" panels. i think only 60" panels had plus green serials.

[KCinWhitby]

where are you seeing the offsets for plus green 50" panels. i think only 60" panels had plus green serials.


It was shown in post # 17. I'm not sure if it was for 50" or 60 ". I think you even sent it to someone to try and it worked well for them. Was that jsut for 60"?

Thanks,

[jkcheng122]

It was shown in post # 17. I'm not sure if it was for 50" or 60 ". I think you even sent it to someone to try and it worked well for them. Was that jsut for 60"?

Thanks,

that was from DisplayHarmony, and it should only apply to 60" models.

[Dahlsim]

ah colors, i was thinking grayscale for a sec there but i think getting grayscale correct still helps the colors. there are no service menu or any other tweaks for colors on the 5020/6020, for that you need to spring for the elite.

but looking at the calibration reports posted by d-nice at avsforum (can i link the thread here?) the color points arent so off that you'd see yellow looking like orange. i know it doesnt look that way on my 5020.

As I posted also on AVS, let's not forget that color can be adjusted in the User menu with Color and Tint Controls.

It's not the granular control over each Primary but it can be used to effectively get colors adjusted by averaging out any inaccuracies across the colors. Visually effective nontheless.

[Dahlsim]

thanks for the before and after pics. i see a huge difference and would like that but one of my question is still havent been answered. I switch to optimum when watching animations and game mode when playing games. I understand that all av modes are affected when you do a calibration. Does it make the other av modes better or does it make it bad? dont want to sacrifice some of the av modes to get a perfect calibrated movie mode.

My observation is that after calibration of Movie Mode the other modes get bluer but on the whole they are improved. I have used and adjusted the other A/V modes post pro-calibration fairly extensively although Movie Mode is the workhorse for most situations.

My guess is that the flatter grayscale relative to movie mode is also more flat relative to the other modes although I have not verified that since I have no meter equipment currently (mostly because I'm afraid I won't make time to use it yet). In addition Calibrating Movie mode only makes the grayscale a little bluer relatively because Movie Mode is already close to D65 out of the box. So the temp change to the other modes is relatively small.

In addition if you calibrate Standard Mode (I had both settings calibrated for comparision) I find a significant improvement in ALL of the A/V modes because all of the temps come down much closer to D65 and you can then adjust them. The only major issue left for each of the A/V modes appears to be gamma which I find can be compensated fairly well using brightness/contrast in your basic picture controls.

Problem is that Movie Mode is still the best mode overall by a good margin in terms of calibrated accuracy although Standard is not shabby at all IMHO. So switching between Movie Mode and Standard Mode calibrations is very inconvenient currently using ControlCAL.

If swapping grayscale settings (RGB) could be done easier, which is a discussion I have pending with Turbe currently, it would be a HUGE improvement for the adjustability of the 9G Non-Elite models. What's needed here is for some 9G NE owners to let Turbe know that there would be a strong interest in such a feature, at least that's the message I'm getting from him.

[jkcheng122]

As I posted also on AVS, let's not forget that color can be adjusted in the User menu with Color and Tint Controls.

It's not the granular control over each Primary but it can be used to effectively get colors adjusted by averaging out any inaccuracies across the colors. Visually effective nontheless.

for color adjustments via user menu i found d-nice's settings to be the best compromise to get all the colors within a certain range.

[Dahlsim]

for color adjustments via user menu i found d-nice's settings to be the best compromise to get all the colors within a certain range.

I'm sure they are quite accurate however if you are adjusting for an A/V mode that was not the basis of the grayscale then you're making compensatory adjustments to improve the color visually best as possible.

[schmoely]

5020 or 6020? I'd suspect with a 5020 -25 in b-high would screw things up pretty bad.

6020.

Got done with the other one yesterday morning and had very similar starting points and results.

[jkcheng122]

6020.

Got done with the other one yesterday morning and had very similar starting points and results.

ah okay that clears things up.

[rfisher983]

about to place an order on a usb to serial + female to female serial cable. My Serials begin with HFPM and I have a 6020. I can do this and I was wondering what would my offsets be?

[rfisher983]

why is orbiter mode 2 used? I thought that was for only dot by dot mode and not full screen?

[schmoely]

about to place an order on a usb to serial + female to female serial cable. My Serials begin with HFPM and I have a 6020. I can do this and I was wondering what would my offsets be?

I have two HFPM panels which, after calibration, had very similar offsets (see my post above).

why is orbiter mode 2 used? I thought that was for only dot by dot mode and not full screen?
Orbiter 1 is used in all modes except dot-by-dot. Orbiter 2 is used in all modes period.

[rfisher983]

my defaults:
R-445
G-520
B-500
Question:
Once I change these settings and save does it change the greyscale for all video modes (movie, standard, optical) or just movie?

[rfisher983]

Problem:

AV Selection: Movie, C: 40 / 0 / 1 / R1 / -15 / F/T off/ Power off / Orbital 2 / RLS off

Input 4: Directv via hdmi in 1080i

enter these settings in controlcal and press send on each one:

http://rob.team-affliction.com/PDP-6020.JPG

Image looks bright, vivid in the service menu on AV Section 3 (movie) seen below

http://rob.team-affliction.com/IMG_8316.JPG

Great looks good. I hit Save.. TV asks me to power off the set. I hit the button in the back of the TV and wait one minute. Power on the set and change input to 4 AV Selection: Movie, C: 40 / 0 / 1 / R1 / -15 / F/T off/ Power off / Orbital 2 / RLS off

and the image I get is:

http://rob.team-affliction.com/IMG_8318.JPG

Why does it look dull compared to what I saw in the Calibration mode? Any ideas to make it stick?

[DisplayHarmony]

Right after you pressed the Save button, did you power off your display with your displays remote control's power button or using the power off button with ControlCal?


edit: as posted below.. this is a trick question.. you use the power switch on the back of the display.

[rfisher983]

Right after you pressed the Save button, did you power off your display with your displays remote control's power button or using the power off button with ControlCal?

i hit the button on the back of the TV. Should I try the remote power off or the Control Cal power off button?

Step-by-Step Instructions by D-Nice:

# Your display will flicker and you be prompted to power off the display
# Power off the display per the main switch on the back of your 5020/6020.

[DisplayHarmony]

No, I asked a trick question.. you did it right...

I wanted to make sure you were using that power switch.

I would do everything again step by step, I will go over your post one more time too

===> Check your light sensor settings and power save options... what are they?

[DisplayHarmony]

===> Check your light sensor settings and power save options... what are they?

Also, did you see S03 onscreen when you moved the slider to 3 (Movie)?

[rfisher983]

Room Light Senssor: Off
Power Control > Energy Save: Off

[rfisher983]

shows:

PAV : S03

[DisplayHarmony]

When you are doing all this, make sure you have a 1080i signal being input live... don't do those adjustments without a signal... don't use 1080p/60 or 1080p/24

If this doesn't help, then redo all entire procedure but use Pure Cinema set to Off for all steps (still Inputting a 1080i signal) and report back. Try the first sentence above first.

[rfisher983]

After I find the settings I like in the Service Menu mode / Calibration mode I hit save on Control Cal.

On my TV screen it says:

Final Setup is complete.
Please Power Off.

Immediately once it says the information above the AV Selection turns from Movie Mode to Dynamic. I switch the mode back to Movie mode and notice the picture looks the same as it did prior to service menu mode / calibration mode.

For shits and giggles I set the H-Green setting to 700 and saved the setting. I power cycled the TV and noticed all AV selections had a greenish tint. This concluded that Control Cal was saving the settings in the service menu. However, for some reason when I'm in the service menu / Calibration mode the screen appears more vivid and colorful then when I'm not in the service menu /calibration mode. This happens in all of the AV Selections.

[DisplayHarmony]

maybe I didn't understand, are you saying your highs and lows (rgb) changes did not stick outside the SM? :confused:

[rfisher983]

Hook up the Serial cable to TV and laptop.

Step 1: execute ControlCAL v1-41 RC4 b23.exe
Step 2: open Pio PDP-6020FD Calibration BASIC v0.08.cdp in ControlCal Big Screen
Step 3: uncheck auto send and error dialogs in the settings tab in ControlCAL Big Screen
Step 4: Power on the TV
Step 5: Put the TV in input mode 4
Step 6: AV Selection: Movie, C: 40 / 0 / 1 / R1 / -15 / F/T off/ Power off / Orbital 2 / RLS off
Step 7: Looked over previous steps to find the default settings.
Step 8: Recorded defaults from previous instructions: R445 G520 B500

Lets Calibrate!

Step 9: Press Calibration On in the small ControlCal - Profile Extras Screen
**** Noticed the screen looks more vibrant, colors looks great and noticed it's probably on Standard or Dynamic.
Step 10: Move AV Selection to AV Selection: 3 and press Send in ControlCal Big Screen
*** Noticed the screen still looks more vibrant, colors looks awesome and i know its on Movie mode. (PAV :S03 on the tv screen)
Step 11: Move Pure Cinema slider to 0 and hit send in the ControlCal Big screen
(*** PUC : S00 on the tv screen)
Step 12: Press mute twice on the remote. See Panel Factor (+). Hit Enter on the remote. Press up six times. See Panel - 2 Adj (+). Hit enter on the remote. See the values for RGB.
Step 13: Press Send in ControlCal Big Screen on AV Section 3 (movie) confirm: (PAC :S03) on the tv screen
Step 14: R-High set to 470. G-High 515, B-High 551. Press send on each and get the Proper code on the tv screen of (PBH and the #)
Step 15: Hit Save in the Control Cal Profile Extras
Screen says final setup is in process for a second.
Colors look the same as they did w/ Calibration on
Screen says Final setup is complete. Please power off.
*The screen looks bright, over saturated and ugly* (mode Dynamic)
Step 16: I press the power switch on the back of the panel.
Step 17: Wait one minute for the TV to recycle
Step 18: Turn on TV
Step 19: Select Home
Step 20: Press Input 4 on the remote
Step 21: AV Selection: Movie, C: 40 / 0 / 1 / R1 / -15 / F/T off/ Power off / Orbital 2 / RLS off
Step 22: Noticed Movie mode doesn't look the same as it did in the calibration mode. The colors look dull.
Step 23: Press Calibration On in the ControlCal Extras Menu
Step 24: AV Selection 3 and press send
*(Confirm PAV: S03)*
Colors look good and the way I want them to look.
Step 25: Press ControlCal off in the ControlCal Extras Menu
*Colors look dull in movie mode*
Step 26: Repeated step 13 and verified the settings are what I inputted in Step 15.
Step 27: Made a movie on step 23-25

The movie shows a little difference between the color differences but it’s a big difference with your own eyes.

http://rob.team-affliction.com/MVI_8320.AVI

Any suggestions on why calibration on looks totally different then calibration off even with the same mode and following the directions above?

[max49]

When you are doing all this, make sure you have a 1080i signal being input live... don't do those adjustments without a signal... don't use 1080p/60 or 1080p/24...

Hi DisplayHarmony,

I just got my 5020 after Christmas and have completed my break in, now I'm looking to do the calibration.

Can you explain why you need an interlaced signal for calibration? What will happen if you send a progressive signal?

Secondly has anyone taken colorimiter readings of the D-nice ControlCal standard adjustments vs an HCFR calibration? I'm curious to see the results.
Thanks!

[bd1]

Thank you for a very easy to use program. i just wanted to plug in D-Nice's offsets so it didn't take long at all, longest part was getting the correct cable hooked up, then reading the instructions, and re-reading them a couple of times. haven't had time to really compare the difference yet, just want to thank Shawn for the sw, D-Nice for all your generous info, and jkcheng for your before & after pics.
my original values:
Red high: 500
Green high: 491
the rest were all 500.

[jkcheng122]

Thank you for a very easy to use program. i just wanted to plug in D-Nice's offsets so it didn't take long at all, longest part was getting the correct cable hooked up, then reading the instructions, and re-reading them a couple of times. haven't had time to really compare the difference yet, just want to thank Shawn for the sw, D-Nice for all your generous info, and jkcheng for your before & after pics.
my original values:
Red high: 500
Green high: 491
the rest were all 500.

try flipping the purecinema between Off and Advanced to see the difference between default settings and D-Nice's settings.

[sheedoe]

Hello everyone! My first post here. My 6020 has serial number starting with HKPM (mnfc date Nov, 2008). I've looked everwhere but cannot find the specific offset value for this serial. Should I just use the values that D-nice has on the 6020 settings page (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1034208)? Thanks.

[DisplayHarmony]

Can you explain why you need an interlaced signal for calibration? What will happen if you send a progressive signal?



This is from D-Nice and he recommended steps.

I would go with his step by step first. After, you can try 1080p/60 if you like.. I know a few others that do...

Hello everyone! My first post here. My 6020 has serial number starting with HKPM (mnfc date Nov, 2008). I've looked everwhere but cannot find the specific offset value for this serial. Should I just use the values that D-nice has on the 6020 settings page (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1034208)? Thanks.

yes

[sheedoe]

yes

Thanks. Just one more question...should I set pure cinema to "off" or "standard" when calibrating to input those offset values? I see D-nice's reference setting as "standard", but some other places I see its "off"...I'm a little confused :confused:!

[DisplayHarmony]

When setting them using Controlcal set pure cinema to OFF as in the instructions. Input a 1080i signal.

After you are done with Controlcal, if you have 1080i sources that you use, simply switch Pure cinema to STANDARD for 1080i sources, use Pure cinema OFF for 1080p/60 or 1080/24 sources (set/switch Pure cinema in the standard User Menu for every day viewing).

If you don't have 1080i sources that you watch, just use OFF for pure cinema all the time. If you do have 1080i sources and you don't want to mess with switching between OFF and STANDARD, don't use a 1080p/24 source (i.e. set your Bluray player to 1080p/60) and just keep Pure cinema on STANDARD.

[jkcheng122]

i should take some pics to see if calibrated settings carried over to STANDARD mode.

[Devildog151]

So, basically there is no way possible to calibrate the grayscale and have pure cinema set to advanced? It kinda defeats the whole purpose of watching blu-rays in 24fps with the display's 72hz 3:3 pulldown. I'm really unhappy with the yellow tint on the whites on movie mode but extremely happy with the shadow detail over all the other modes. I'm looking to calibrate my 5020 in a few weeks once I get pass the 150 hours and get all the cables I need.

[DisplayHarmony]

It kinda defeats the whole purpose of watching blu-rays in 24fps with the display's 72hz 3:3 pulldown.

:confused:


Pure cinema set to OFF handles 1080p/24 fine (displays at 72) using the adjusted/calibrated rgb highs and lows you set with Controlcal... Use AV Selection Movie.

There is no need to use Pure cinema ADVANCE on the 9G NEs..

This is posted in post 2 (D-Nice's quote) and my previous post above (#191, which spells out your options depending on Input Signal/Source).

The best way for those with Cable/Sat boxes (outputting 1080i) and a BR Player (outputting 1080p/24) it to switch** between STANDARD (watching Cable/Sat at 1080i) and OFF (watching a movie on BR with the BR player set to 1080p/24) for Pure cinema. Some people don't like to switch, but it's getting the most from the Display if you do. Many people with the Elites do the same thing with the isf memories.

When you set those rgb highs/lows with Controlcal, don't Input a 1080p/24 signal, use 1080i.

** when I mean switch, I mean switch the Pure cinema setting in the standard User Menu using your remote control, not Controlcal.

[Devildog151]

Ok, thanks for the reply. I was misinformed and thought that the only way to get 72hz was to have it set to advance. Now I'm really excited to calibrate my 5020 and get movie mode right to where I wanted. You guys are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for all your guys help.

[sheedoe]

When you set those rgb highs/lows with Controlcal, don't Input a 1080p/24 signal, use 1080i.


Thank you sooo much for clarifying that. When you say to input a 1080i signal when setting rgb values, how is that necessary since the only thing being used is your PC and the TV?? I mean I am not using the DVE HD calibration disc with a BD player, in which case it would play a role. I just want to set the rgb value according to D-nice's reference setting. Could you please explain that? Sorry if this is a stupid question. Thanks :).

Edit: Also, post calibration, I was wondering if the pure cinema setting (i.e. standard, off) can be saved for each hdmi input. In other words, for 1080i content that I get from cable, would I be able to (permanently until changed by user) set that input on pure cinema to "standard", and have my BD player (PS3) hdmi input as pure cinema "off" for 1080/24P content? Or do I need to change the pure cinema settings every time regardless of which hdmi inputs??

[bd1]

try flipping the purecinema between Off and Advanced to see the difference between default settings and D-Nice's settings.

i didn't really notice diff when i switch between Pure Cinema modes, maybe slight decrease in red/yellow on some content, but very slight, not as obvious as your pics - could be my 1080i hddvr source vs 1080p bd input on yours ?
i did notice less yellow in movie mode, though still has haze so i still use performance & standard for most content. one big improvement i noticed was an overall higher brightness and bluer pic on ALL av modes, so i can now get more details w/o raising contrast/brightness, actually had to lower them a bit and increase color now (from - 12 before to between -7 and 0 now depending on content.)

[rfisher983]

Whats the best way to calibrate the grey scale with out purchasing a meter? I just received the DVE disk and with the filter (the G, R, B) all all fine except the Green.

[lostconsumer]

Apparently I'm missing something.
When I hit the power on in ControlCal with the pio profile load button nothing happens (TV is in standby, red power light).
I've verified the baud is set to 9600 in the integrator menu.
I've verified the cable works by connecting two PCs together and using putty on either end with the same 9600 8,N,1,N settings.
Straight through means, as it sounds, each of the holes on either end of the serial is labelled with the same number, correct?
Control cal's window seems to think it is sending commands.

Anyone have any thoughts?
It's not likely the serial port on the TV is bad is it?

Thanks!

[DisplayHarmony]

I've verified the cable works by connecting two PCs together and using putty on either end with the same 9600 8,N,1,N settings.


you have a null modem configured cable (the wrong cable) since that what you use to connect two computers. You need a straight-through serial cable to connect your computer to your Pioneer.

[cfryer]

Plan to use D-NICEs offsets this evening. My factory defaults are as follows:

PDP-5050FD
Serial #HKPM********
Manufactured Date: Nov 2008

r-high 500
g-high 494
b-high 500
r-low 500
g-low 500
b-low 500
abl 109

Hoping others will post their defaults and manufacture date.

With Offsets will be at:

r-high 487
g-high 494
b-high 549

Still hope to have a professional calibration in the next month.

Some newbie advice: one of the main problems I had using ControlCal was that I was sitting too close to the panel while using the remote to get consistent IR hits. Sit 4-5 feet back and I believe the IR sensor is on the right side of the TV. Very easy to use procedure and software otherwise.

[warrenmr]

Thought I had this straight ...

When setting them using Controlcal set pure cinema to OFF as in the instructions. Input a 1080i signal.

After you are done with Controlcal, if you have 1080i sources that you use, simply switch Pure cinema to STANDARD for 1080i sources, use Pure cinema OFF for 1080p/60 or 1080/24 sources (set/switch Pure cinema in the standard User Menu for every day viewing).

If you don't have 1080i sources that you watch, just use OFF for pure cinema all the time. If you do have 1080i sources and you don't want to mess with switching between OFF and STANDARD, don't use a 1080p/24 source (i.e. set your Bluray player to 1080p/60) and just keep Pure cinema on STANDARD.

... but then I re-read the instructions from the first page

Originally Posted by D-Nice
72Hz will still work for 1080p24 sources when you set Pure Cinema to "Off".

The panel doesn't run @ 72Hz while Pure Cinema is set to "Standard".

Use Pure Cinema "Standard" for 1080p60/1080i/720p/480i/p and use Pure Cinema "Off" for 1080p24 sources.

The consistent advice is to use PC=OFF for 1080p24

For 1080p60, D-Nice recommends STANDARD and the second paragraph of the DisplayHarmony post recommends OFF. The third paragraph of DisplayHarmony's post indicates advice similar to D-Nice: use STANDARD for everything except 1080p24.

For all other modes, D-Nice recommends STANDARD, with no recommendation from DisplayHarmony.

Comments? Is the second paragraph of the DisplayHarmony post regarding 1080p60 in error?

[DisplayHarmony]

here :)

Pure Cinema set to Off or Advance on a none Elite will process a 1080p24 signal @ 72Hz with 3:3 pulldown. Pure Cinema Off will not extract 24fps from any other 1080 signal (1080p60/1080i60). It will present those types of signals at 60Hz with no pulldown.

Smooth does frame interpolation regardless of signal type and presents it at 60Hz.

Standard will do 3:2 pulldown on any film based signal type.

[warrenmr]

here :)

Thanks DisplayHarmony. I more confused now, however! I thought that the PureCinema setting recommendations were to obtain the correct (service menu modified) grayscale when switching between input resolutions. Are you implying that the PureCinema settings only affect pulldown?

[datrumole]

OK Here is my Serial: HIPM Sept 2008:

And i did NOT get my reference out of box settings....:mad:

Can anyone with HIPM serial post their Original Settings please!!!! i have been collecting every one's settings and recording them in a spread sheet, here are the averages of the FACTORY DISPLAY OFFSETS:

R-High = 490.7
G-High = 502.9
All Others 500

I was looking for some before and after calibrations for those who have a HIPM.....

[datrumole]

also, my ABL was 100....i bumped it to 109....is that bad????

[DisplayHarmony]

also, my ABL was 100....i bumped it to 109....is that bad????

yes

:oops:

:lesson:
what????? you shouldn't touch any other controls except what's in the instructions... you are changing controls you don't know about and are putting your display at risk. I don't understand how anyone could not follow (and only follow) the instructions, line by line.

[datrumole]

simple, everyone elses ABL settings were at 109....why would mine be at risk puttin them at your value....as a corollary; why wouldn't thinking 100 was worse for my panel

and ever since i did that my whites have shot up through the roof and look phenomenal!!!!

heres the best part....you have no idea what ABL does, nor does anyone on here know why not to mess with it...so dont just be a sheep cuz d-nice said not to touch...

doing some research it looks to be an Automatic Brightness Limiter...which would explain my muddy/dull whites....since popping this up i have much sharper and clearer whites....perhaps you should put yours to 100 and see what i was dealing with

[bmwolf]

To be honest when thousands of dollars are involved, I'm quite content being sheepish! But good luck with that! :thumbup:














PS. Have you changed your mind now that D-nice has explained things over at AVS? Just curious.

[max49]

Here's my results of the post calibration. I have definitely noticed improved highlights and a slight less red push. I'm sure I can probably get the delta E's closer to zero with more tinkering but I'm very pleased with my picture as it is now.

http://www.greatscott.ca/images/deltae_post_calib.jpg

http://www.greatscott.ca/images/kungFuPanda1_1024.jpg

http://www.greatscott.ca/images/kungfupanda3_1024.jpg

http://www.greatscott.ca/images/kungfupanda4_1024.jpg

http://www.greatscott.ca/images/kungfupanda5_1024.jpg

http://www.greatscott.ca/images/kungfupanda6_1024.jpg

I am selling my EyeOne Display2, F2F Serial cable for the Kuro and ControlCal bundle if ayone's interested. PM me.

[bmwolf]

Doesn't the display need calibrated multiple times throughout it's life? Why are you selling your equipment?

[petmic10]

Doesn't the display need calibrated multiple times throughout it's life? Why are you selling your equipment?

He may be buying better equipment.

[bmwolf]

True.

[eyelobes]

Will a Prolific chip adapter work? and where can i get a f-f straight serial locally?

[max49]

Doesn't the display need calibrated multiple times throughout it's life? Why are you selling your equipment?

Yeah just got my hands on a pro model so don't really need the D2 anymore. However I have since calibrated with the eyeone pro and found my results to be the same. I got it more to use with my printer profiling.

[SumSuperman]

I just got done adjusting the RGB settings on my 5020 and I can't say enough how pleased I am. The process was straight-forward and the step-by-step directions were very helpful. I can already tell the improved picture greyscale by switching between Advance and Standard in the Pure Cinema settings. Everything now looks more natural as it should. Thanks for a great product and all the contributors on this forum! :thumbup:

[Blueste]

Hey fellow Buckeyes,

D-Nice is willing to make a calibration trip to Ohio if there are six of us. I have a Pioneer 5020 and I'm in. Anyone else?

He will calibrate any brand plasma or LCD. If interested, please PM D-Nice.

Thanks, Blue

[bmwolf]

Yeah just got my hands on a pro model so don't really need the D2 anymore. However I have since calibrated with the eyeone pro and found my results to be the same. I got it more to use with my printer profiling.

Makes sense.

[led2112]

I have a 5020 and used ControlCAL to adjust my RGB offsets and the picture is excellent! When I switch between PC: off and PC:advance, I don't see any difference between them. This is while displaying a white background. When I adjust my RGB offsets while in ControlCAL, I can definitely see the difference while displaying the same white background. Since PC:advance uses the original greyscale, can I use ControlCAL to verify that my original greyscale settings are being used while using PC:advance? I think the answer is no but I thought I would ask. I DID write down my original settings so I could always go back to them to see the difference. I'm just wondering if I somehow changed the greyscale for PC:advance as well as PC: off.

[DisplayHarmony]

led, after you pressed the Save Button, did you get the message on the Display to Power Off the Display? If so, did you use the Master Power Button on the back of the Display? If so, after powering your display back on, did you get the Message/Menu asking for Home or Retail (where you select Home)?

Now, if so for all the above, after you selected Home, you must re-enter all the settings again in the User Menu (not Controlcal) including selecting Movie?

[led2112]

Wow! I can really tell now! That must have been it. I needed to select movie and re-enter all my settings. I can switch back and forth now and see a big difference. The white is just so much whiter after using ControlCAL! Very impressive! Thank you!

Does it matter if you use the master power button or the remote to turn the display off after saving your settings? The first time I entered my RGB offsets using D-Nice's settings from AVS, I DID get the message to power off the display but I DIDN"T use the Master Power Button. I just used the remote. When I turned my display back on, I did get the Message asking me to select Home or Retail and I picked Home. I was using some instructions I found called "Pioneer PDP-5020/6020 White Balance calibration procedures". These instructions didn't have you using the master power button to turn the display off. Just the remote.

Then I found the instructions posted by D-Nice on these forums which were slightly different. So I used ControlCAL a second time following these instructions and I did use the master power button to turn the display off. I then waited a minute, powered it back up and selected home.

[DisplayHarmony]

Does it matter if you use the master power button or the remote to turn the display off after saving your settings? The first time I entered my RGB offsets using D-Nice's settings from AVS, I DID get the message to power off the display but I DIDN"T use the Master Power Button. I just used the remote. When I turned my display back on, I did get the Message asking me to select Home or Retail and I picked Home. I was using some instructions I found called "Pioneer PDP-5020/6020 White Balance calibration procedures". These instructions didn't have you using the master power button to turn the display off. Just the remote.


:confused::confused:

This is what it says in Post #2 with the instructions I posted..

Power off the display per the main switch on the back of your 5020/6020.

:clap:

" I was using some instructions I found called "Pioneer PDP-5020/6020 White Balance calibration procedures".

Didn't the email you get sent tell you to use the instructions in my Post?

You got it anyways, the master power switch is the preferred method.


Wow! I can really tell now! That must have been it. I needed to select movie and re-enter all my settings. I can switch back and forth now and see a big difference. The white is just so much whiter after using ControlCAL! Very impressive! Thank you!

[ChicagoSCP]

Some info...

I have a 5020FD with HGPM serial and a July 2008 manufacture date. I did not perform a true calibration, but merely adjusted my RGB High/Lows per D-Nice's post-breakin offsets, as found on AVSForum.

My original Factory Set Settings were:

R High: 513
G High: 501
B High: 500
R Low: 500
G Low: 500
B Low: 500

After adjusting using the D-Nice offsets, I have:

R High: 500
G High: 501
B High: 549
R Low: 500
G Low: 500
B Low: 500

[bmwolf]

Has everyone who has calibrated their display taken measurements outside of ControlCal/service menu to confirm their settings are the same? The image looks different to me after saving, turning the power off, and putting the movie settings back in. There is still a noticeable change when switching from PC off to advanced, but the changes just don't match up with what I'm seeing in the service menu. I don't have the equipment to measure it myself so I was wondering if others could confirm this.

[led2112]

:confused::confused:

This is what it says in Post #2 with the instructions I posted..



:clap:

" I was using some instructions I found called "Pioneer PDP-5020/6020 White Balance calibration procedures".

Didn't the email you get sent tell you to use the instructions in my Post?

You got it anyways, the master power switch is the preferred method.

The first time I used ControlCAL I used the instructions contained in one of the zip files I downloaded from here. The second time I used the instructions that you posted in post #2.(I said earlier that I used instructions posted by D-Nice but that was wrong. They were the instructions you posted) Thank you for the help!

[FlashJordan]

New ControlCal user. Big thanks to turbe for the software and the support from the forum.

Received my 6020 a week and a half ago and followed D-Nice's break-in strictly.

It is the 6020 and serial starts with ICBM (Mfr Feb 2009!)
My original values were:

R High 474
G High 517
B High 500
ABL 123

I applied the D-Nice offsets on Saturday and now I'm at:

R High 499 (+25)
G High 512 (-5)
B High 551 (+51)


Some questions/observations:

I settled on using the offset #'s posted by D-Nice in the AVS thread. I have also seen another set of offsets posted here by Display Harmony, apparently also for the 6020 "green plus panels" of:
R High: +13
G High: 0
B High: +63

Did I use the best offsets for my set? (short of actual calibration of course which I plan to pursue in the future)

During calibration, I could not get the sliders to end up where I wanted them using either a mouse or the trackpad on the laptop. It would jump like +/-3 points at a time right around where I wanted them to be. I ended up typing the exact numbers in the box to the right and that worked. Probably something weird with the laptop as I haven't seen this posted anywhere.

In reference to the post above about using the master power switch upon saving calibration: I did not do this. I used the power button on the TV remote as instructed by the PDF instructions included with the display profile zip for the non-elite 9G's. If using the master switch is important, that pdf should probably be updated. The offsets definitely "took" just using the remote power button but if there is a reason I should go back a redo it with the master power button, please let me know.

Another thing I observed (and made me think I had done something wrong at first) was that ProCinema set to Standard reverts back to the original grayscale when fed a *24P* signal. I was switching between ProCinema settings admiring "my work" vs the original grayscale maintained by the Advanced setting...only I found Standard was matching the look of Advanced on my Baraka blu ray being fed 24P from my PS3. Off was maintaining the grayscale adjustments but Standard was not. So I went back and re-verified all my offsets again...but they were fine. Then yesterday, I saw this post which matched the behavior I am seeing:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15891567#post15891567
This would seem to make it imperative to use OFF for 24P to use the adjusted grayscale. Prior to this I was thinking of using Standard as my "set it and forget it" ProCinema setting. Thoughts?

I have to say I think the picture looks fantastic after applying the offsets with natural skintones and colors, more accurate whites (cooler) than stock Movie mode, and great contrast.

[h2guy]

This is my first ControlCal calibration. Thanks to all whom have contributed to this thread. A special thanks to D-Nice and DisplayHarmony for their patience with all the questions.

Notes:
Broke-in using D-Nice settings and USB thumb drive.
Follow the instructions carefully and you will be successful. I had no issues during calibration getting the settings to take.
Pre-calibration my 6020 had a noticeable red push; my suspicions were confirmed by the amount of Rhi offset needed to get on target. I've seen others recently that have also indicated red push; older models exhibited green push?
Used 18% coverage patterns, generated from PC's HDMI connection.
Placed Spyder in center of screen and allowed 1 hour for warmup.

Equipment:
* PDP6020 HLPM (Manf: Dec 08, applied January firmware 0904-0401) - BTW, their 2008 codification is HxPM, where x=month (A=Jan, B=Feb, ..., L=Dec)
* ControlCal w/ USB-serial/RS323 bundle (shipped fast, thank you!)
* Spyder3 Colorimeter Transducer
* HCFR Colorimeter Software
* CalMan Pattern Generator
* Two laptops (one dedicated to pattern generation)

Original/+-Offset RGB:

Rhi: 464/-94
Ghi: 503/+3
Bhi: 500/+25
Rlo: 500/0
Glo: 500/0
Blo: 500/0

After first calibration run, set the following picture settings:
AV Selection: Movie
Contrast: 45
Brightness: +2 (wife acceptance factor at play here)
Color: +1
Tint: R1
Sharpness: -15
Purecinema: Off

Results:
Excellent skins tones and overall picture 'depth'. I watched a BD movie last night (the new Indiana Jones) and the picture looked great! Also, my cable box looks nice on HD (1080i) channels. As an amateur calibrator I'm more than happy with the results. :thumbup:

Here are the graphs:

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii215/mccaskey/PDP6020%20Calibration/6020-grayscale.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii215/mccaskey/PDP6020%20Calibration/6020rgb.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii215/mccaskey/PDP6020%20Calibration/6020-lum.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii215/mccaskey/PDP6020%20Calibration/6020-gamma.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii215/mccaskey/PDP6020%20Calibration/6020-colortemp.jpg

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii215/mccaskey/PDP6020%20Calibration/6020-cie.jpg

[morphotik]

Alright, so it looks like I messed up...I had previously calibrated my panel last week. I decided today that red needed to be corrected so I loaded up ControlCal and went in to change red high by three clicks. I did this and this only, I didn't switch the a/v selection or pure cinema...I just didn't touch them. On top of that I did it while I had my computer screen up. So...my question is...what did I do? How did having the screen set to a 1080p output computer display effect my calibration...as well as not having switched the a/v?

[FlashJordan]

Alright, so it looks like I messed up...I had previously calibrated my panel last week. I decided today that red needed to be corrected so I loaded up ControlCal and went in to change red high by three clicks. I did this and this only, I didn't switch the a/v selection or pure cinema...I just didn't touch them. On top of that I did it while I had my computer screen up. So...my question is...what did I do? How did having the screen set to a 1080p output computer display effect my calibration...as well as not having switched the a/v?

I am not an expert by any means so you may want to wait for a response from someone with more experience. Having said that, as long as you have your original rgb values, just start over and redo everything the correct way as per the instructions and I think that should straighten out any issue you may have created. Good luck.

[knarlyd]

I walked thru the instructions for the 5020 step by step and I think it all worked. Only difference is at the end, I powered off with the "standby" on the back of the panel (just found the "master off").
After powering on the set, I didn't receive the message about Home or Retail.

So, I went thru all the steps again, but this time, when I hit "save" on ControlCal, the CC dialog box said "received error code" and the power button went red but the panel remained on.
Walked thru it two more times, starting from step 1 (reading the default values on the display, down to the end) but when I hit save, it always says received error code.

Now, when I look at the settings, all appears to have saved (all values say 500.) So I think they took but I'm not certain.

Any idea why i cant save settings anymore should I want to alter them or redo them in a few months?

[knarlyd]

OK, it does appear the settings saved because now the picture looks like CRAP (sorry!)
The picture show massive "pixelation" and the colors are not good at all because Im seeing colors all washed together. Flesh tones are a mixture of yellow red and greenish hues.
From the attached photo, even tho the camera phone doesnt take good pics, hopefully one can see the actual pixelation I'm referring to.

So, if I want to go back to my original settings before tweaking, which looked pretty good, how do I go about doing that since the "save" in ControlCal doesn't appear to be working for me after the initial save?
384

[DisplayHarmony]

Did you power off the display with the master power switch yet? If not, do so, wait a few minutes then power back on. Repeat the process (step by step including the input signal of 1080i) and enter your factory settings you wrote down first thing. You may have to repeat the entire process (each step) a couple times including using the Master Power switch.
When you say the settings are 500, did you use the first steps (below too) and your remote control to navigate to the screen where you actually read the current highs and lows (RGB) on the screen (not Controlcal's sliders which default to 500).. this is how you check the current highs and lows (and the same procedure you do in the very beginning to get your factory set settings).

1) With the Display in Standby/Off: Press the POWER ON Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile (wait a few seconds for the Display to Power On).
2) Press the CALIBRATION ON Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.
3) Move the "A/V SELECTION" slider to the right 2 times until it reads 'A/V Selection 3' (AV Selection: Movie).
4) Press the SEND button next to the "A/V SELECTION" slider.
5) Move the "PURE CINEMA" slider to 0 (Off).
6) Press the SEND button next to the "PURE CINEMA" slider.
7) Press Mute on the Display's Remote Control until you see the menu called "Panel Factory (+).
8) Press Enter on the Display's Remote Control.
9) Use the up or down arrow to navigate until you see "Panel-2 ADJ (+).
10) Press Enter on the Display's Remote Control.
11) Write down (AND SAVE THESE SETTINGS IN A SAFE PLACE) the Factory Set values for: R-HIGH, G-HIGH, B-HIGH, R-LOW, G-LOW, B-LOW.
12) Press the CALIBRATION OFF Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.
13) Press the POWER OFF Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.

Also, what input signal are you using when you are in CALIBRATION ON Mode? Was it 1080i or 1080p/60 or 1080/24 (or no signal at all) etc? If you weren't using 1080i, please input 1080i while you are in CALIBRATION ON mode, things go easier that way.

Sounds like some steps were missed/skipped..

[DisplayHarmony]

Alright, so it looks like I messed up...I had previously calibrated my panel last week. I decided today that red needed to be corrected so I loaded up ControlCal and went in to change red high by three clicks. I did this and this only, I didn't switch the a/v selection or pure cinema...I just didn't touch them. On top of that I did it while I had my computer screen up. So...my question is...what did I do? How did having the screen set to a 1080p output computer display effect my calibration...as well as not having switched the a/v?

Just repeat the steps (each) and it's best to input 1080i while you are in CALIBRATION ON Mode.

[DisplayHarmony]

This is my first ControlCal calibration. Thanks to all whom have contributed to this thread. A special thanks to D-Nice and DisplayHarmony for their patience with all the questions.

Contrast: 45



I don't think you want Contrast set > 40....

[KNace]

Hook up the Serial cable to TV and laptop.

Step 1: execute ControlCAL v1-41 RC4 b23.exe
Step 2: open Pio PDP-6020FD Calibration BASIC v0.08.cdp in ControlCal Big Screen
Step 3: uncheck auto send and error dialogs in the settings tab in ControlCAL Big Screen
Step 4: Power on the TV
Step 5: Put the TV in input mode 4
Step 6: AV Selection: Movie, C: 40 / 0 / 1 / R1 / -15 / F/T off/ Power off / Orbital 2 / RLS off
Step 7: Looked over previous steps to find the default settings.
Step 8: Recorded defaults from previous instructions: R445 G520 B500

Lets Calibrate!

Step 9: Press Calibration On in the small ControlCal - Profile Extras Screen
**** Noticed the screen looks more vibrant, colors looks great and noticed it's probably on Standard or Dynamic.
Step 10: Move AV Selection to AV Selection: 3 and press Send in ControlCal Big Screen
*** Noticed the screen still looks more vibrant, colors looks awesome and i know its on Movie mode. (PAV :S03 on the tv screen)
Step 11: Move Pure Cinema slider to 0 and hit send in the ControlCal Big screen
(*** PUC : S00 on the tv screen)
Step 12: Press mute twice on the remote. See Panel Factor (+). Hit Enter on the remote. Press up six times. See Panel - 2 Adj (+). Hit enter on the remote. See the values for RGB.
Step 13: Press Send in ControlCal Big Screen on AV Section 3 (movie) confirm: (PAC :S03) on the tv screen
Step 14: R-High set to 470. G-High 515, B-High 551. Press send on each and get the Proper code on the tv screen of (PBH and the #)
Step 15: Hit Save in the Control Cal Profile Extras
Screen says final setup is in process for a second.
Colors look the same as they did w/ Calibration on
Screen says Final setup is complete. Please power off.
*The screen looks bright, over saturated and ugly* (mode Dynamic)
Step 16: I press the power switch on the back of the panel.
Step 17: Wait one minute for the TV to recycle
Step 18: Turn on TV
Step 19: Select Home
Step 20: Press Input 4 on the remote
Step 21: AV Selection: Movie, C: 40 / 0 / 1 / R1 / -15 / F/T off/ Power off / Orbital 2 / RLS off
Step 22: Noticed Movie mode doesn't look the same as it did in the calibration mode. The colors look dull.
Step 23: Press Calibration On in the ControlCal Extras Menu
Step 24: AV Selection 3 and press send
*(Confirm PAV: S03)*
Colors look good and the way I want them to look.
Step 25: Press ControlCal off in the ControlCal Extras Menu
*Colors look dull in movie mode*
Step 26: Repeated step 13 and verified the settings are what I inputted in Step 15.
Step 27: Made a movie on step 23-25

The movie shows a little difference between the color differences but it’s a big difference with your own eyes.

http://rob.team-affliction.com/MVI_8320.AVI

Any suggestions on why calibration on looks totally different then calibration off even with the same mode and following the directions above?
This is the exact issue that I am facing. I want to mess around a little more, but the second on hit "Calibration On" and change the slider over to 3 for Movie mode... it is not the same picture that I currently use or will be seen post calibration... any advise?

[DisplayHarmony]

This is the exact issue that I am facing. I want to mess around a little more, but the second on hit "Calibration On" and change the slider over to 3 for Movie mode... it is not the same picture that I currently use or will be seen post calibration... any advise?

What Pure Cineam settings did you use in steps 1-6? I noticed he didn't put that in his steps.

Pure Cinema:
Film Mode: Off <--- DO THIS
Text Optimization: Off

[knarlyd]

Did you power off the display with the master power switch yet? If not, do so, wait a few minutes then power back on. Repeat the process (step by step including the input signal of 1080i) and enter your factory settings you wrote down first thing. You may have to repeat the entire process (each step) a couple times including using the Master Power switch.
When you say the settings are 500, did you use the first steps (below too) and your remote control to navigate to the screen where you actually read the current highs and lows (RGB) on the screen (not Controlcal's sliders which default to 500).. this is how you check the current highs and lows (and the same procedure you do in the very beginning to get your factory set settings).



Also, what input signal are you using when you are in CALIBRATION ON Mode? Was it 1080i or 1080p/60 or 1080/24 (or no signal at all) etc? If you weren't using 1080i, please input 1080i while you are in CALIBRATION ON mode, things go easier that way.

Sounds like some steps were missed/skipped..

I just found the MASTER power off (I used the "standby" as I didn't I had a bit of a time find the master lol. So i will use the master off and repeat each step starting from the top. My BD player was/is set to output 1080i.
Also, I used the remote control to navigate and read/write down my original values so at least that was a good first step.

I'll report back when I run through the settings again. Thanks MUCH for the quick response!:thumbsup:

[KNace]

What Pure Cineam settings did you use in steps 1-6? I noticed he didn't put that in his steps.

Pure Cinema:
Film Mode: Off <--- DO THIS
Text Optimization: Off

Yea, I had both of those setting correct. I will mess around with it later tonite. I made some smaller adjustments that I liked today. It was weird that it was happening, it hasn't done that before.

[DisplayHarmony]

Also, I used the remote control to navigate and read/write down my original values so at least that was a good first step.

Anytime you need/want to check the current highs/lows (rgb) you need to follow those steps (with remote control).

If you were actually calibrating, you would start the process, follow those steps to get the current settings then move Controlcal's sliders to those values (R high, G high.. B low etc).

As long as you keep Controlcal running with that profile loaded, Controlcal's slides will have the current values. Diyers and Pros do this when they are actually doing a full calibration.

If you were to close Controlcal or load another profile, the sliders will default to 500 when you load the 9G Non elite profile again - always use those steps and remote control to get the current settings and then enter those numbers in the white boxes next to each slider and press each small Send Button to those values.

Remember, the Refresh Button doesn't work on the Non-Elite Profile so Controlcal can't actually get the current settings from the display.

The Refresh Button does work on the other Profiles like the isfccc ones.

[DisplayHarmony]

Some questions/observations:

During calibration, I could not get the sliders to end up where I wanted them using either a mouse or the trackpad on the laptop. It would jump like +/-3 points at a time right around where I wanted them to be. I ended up typing the exact numbers in the box to the right and that worked. Probably something weird with the laptop as I haven't seen this posted anywhere.


:hiya:

You can also click on the slider's knob (to select that Control) and use your Right/Left arrow keys on the keyboard for fine movement. :devil:

For entering posted values, I find it easier to type them in the white boxes and press the small Send Button.

[knarlyd]

:hiya:

You can also click on the slider's knob (to select that Control) and use your Right/Left arrow keys on the keyboard for fine movement. :devil:

For entering posted values, I find it easier to type them in the white boxes and press the small Send Button.

DOH! :o Didn't know I was supposed to copy those values into the white boxes before hitting send...

[DisplayHarmony]

DOH! :o Didn't know I was supposed to copy those values into the white boxes before hitting send...

You don't have to, it's just an option.. I think if you press the small Send Button with the white box empty it just sends the current value associated with the slider's position.

Basically, you can:


Move Slider with Mouse (will send each time it's moved if Auto Send is enabled).
Move Slider with Right/Left Arrow Keys after selecting Slider with mouse (will send each time it's moved if Auto Send is enabled).
Directly enter value in white box and Press the Small Send Button.
Press the small Send Button to send / re-send the value associated with the current slider's position.



Your choice :thumbup:

[vicrattlehead]

I'm brand new to control-cal as well and I think I may have already made a mistake, which has me very nervous. My television is a 5020FD.

I hooked everything up to the television, and had the tv on in movie mode with Pure Cinema off. The sliders were set for mode 3 which is movie and 0 for pure cinema off already. I wrote down the values the television displayed like the instructions said, which were all at 500 except for g-high I believe which was 497. I changed the values to D-Nice's suggested values and hit the send button next to each one. My biggest mistake was that I saved everything, but then realized that I had never pressed send next to movie mode and pure cinema off. Will this mess up the whole thing?

I reopened the program today and all I did was change the values back to the original numbers and hit send next to each value and saved it. Then I restarted the whole thing making sure to hit send next to every slider.

Should I be ok?

[stedmakr]

I purchased the $60 calibration packet for a 5020 and I’m ready to calibrate the grey scales but I have a few questions that I’d like to clear out before I begin. I’m using the instructions identified for the 5020/6020 posted on the ControlCAL website by DisplayHarmony. These are the instructions that were referenced in the email I received when I received the activation key.

Questions

Is the display profile for the 5020 embedded in ControlCAL 1.41 or is it a separate download? If it is separate where can I find it?

D-Nice Instructions (these are the instructions to calibrate after factory set values have been identified):

Third bullet says set your BD player to output a 1080i signal. I don’t have a BD player but I have a fixed 1080i signal coming from the TIVO HD through a Pioneer Elite receiver, VSX-03. Will this suffice.? Does the TV need to be playing (transmitting a 1080i signal) throughout the calibration process?

Fourth bullet says load BD DVE or your pattern source. What pattern source?

Bullet about half way down the page says begin calibration. I assume this is the process of inputing predefined data values. Is that correct? Anything else?

The values or offsets for the 5020 are not included in the instructions. Where can they be found?

The final bullet says, “Take measurements of Movie mode and post the results.” How is this done? What do we take measurements with?

After the final pictures there is a file called Pio PDP 6020 calibration basic v.08.zip. I could not find a file for the 5020. Do the displays use the same file? If so, how is this file used with controlcal?

Thanks,
Keith

[DisplayHarmony]

studmakr, the display profile Download is attached to Post #2:
http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78

Your TIVO box is good, just input 1080i (it doesn't matter what device you use to do so). Things go smooth with 1080i.

Pattern source is for those doing a full diy calibration or who want to eyeball/check things with patterns. If you are just entereing D-Nice's offsets, just Input something recording on your TIVO box (at 1080i).

Again, if you are just entering posted settings, you probably don't have a meter so you can't take measurements. If you actually had your own meter, you wouldn't have a need to enter someone's settings, you would actually do a proper calibration (DIY)... :D

D-Nice's settings and offsets are here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14384871#post14384871
http://www.controlcal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=49

[vicrattlehead]

studmakr, the display profile Download is attached to Post #2:
http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78

Your TIVO box is good, just input 1080i (it doesn't matter what device you use to do so). Things go smooth with 1080i.

Pattern source is for those doing a full diy calibration or who want to eyeball/check things with patterns. If you are just entereing D-Nice's offsets, just Input something recording on your TIVO box (at 1080i).

Again, if you are just entering posted settings, you probably don't have a meter so you can't take measurements. If you actually had your own meter, you wouldn't have a need to enter someone's settings, you would actually do a proper calibration (DIY)... :D

D-Nice's settings and offsets are here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14384871#post14384871
http://www.controlcal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=49

I'm not sure if my set was displaying 1080i when I did the changes...does that matter?

[DisplayHarmony]

I'm brand new to control-cal as well and I think I may have already made a mistake, which has me very nervous. My television is a 5020FD.

I hooked everything up to the television, and had the tv on in movie mode with Pure Cinema off. The sliders were set for mode 3 which is movie and 0 for pure cinema off already. I wrote down the values the television displayed like the instructions said, which were all at 500 except for g-high I believe which was 497. I changed the values to D-Nice's suggested values and hit the send button next to each one. My biggest mistake was that I saved everything, but then realized that I had never pressed send next to movie mode and pure cinema off. Will this mess up the whole thing?

I reopened the program today and all I did was change the values back to the original numbers and hit send next to each value and saved it. Then I restarted the whole thing making sure to hit send next to every slider.

Should I be ok?

yes, you are ok. Just repeat the process and enter the rgb highs and lows with the offsets based on your factory setttings.

If you have Auto Send enabled in ControlCal, each time you move a slider, the value is sent automatically to the display. It's probably best you press the send button next to each slider if you are just entering posted settings (not doing a full calibration diy style). :devil:

[DisplayHarmony]

I'm not sure if my set was displaying 1080i when I did the changes...does that matter?

If you got it to save, great.. but, you didn't follow instructions step by step. :devil:

I think it's best to follow each instruction, so set and verify (you can verify on your Pioneer) 1080i.

Perhaps I am wasting my time typing this post if things are going to be skipped anyways.. :(

[vicrattlehead]

yes, you are ok. Just repeat the process and enter the rgb highs and lows with the offsets based on your factory setttings.

If you have Auto Send enabled in ControlCal, each time you move a slider, the value is sent automatically to the display. It's probably best you press the send button next to each slider if you are just entering posted settings (not doing a full calibration diy style). :devil:

I don't think autosend was enabled. I also made another mistake...I didn't enter the contrast and tint settings D-Nice posted for control cal altered displays before I did the calibration. Will that have any effect on how things turn out? I entered his user menu settings after changing the offsets.

geez..I really hope I didn't have auto send enabled...I mean I didn't see any changes when moving the slider along until I hit send afterward. I'm a tiny bit nervous about that because when I changed my settings back to the factory settings, the slider up top was set to 1 (optimum), even though the tv was in movie mode, but I figured it didn't make any difference as long as I don't hit send next to it....right??

[DisplayHarmony]

you should be fine..

The instructions are step by step, any particular reason why you skipped so many? :confused:


Do these steps are post your rgb highs and lows:

1) With the Display in Standby/Off: Press the POWER ON Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile (wait a few seconds for the Display to Power On).
2) Press the CALIBRATION ON Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.
3) Move the "A/V SELECTION" slider to the right 2 times until it reads 'A/V Selection 3' (AV Selection: Movie).
4) Press the SEND button next to the "A/V SELECTION" slider.
5) Move the "PURE CINEMA" slider to 0 (Off).
6) Press the SEND button next to the "PURE CINEMA" slider.
7) Press Mute on the Display's Remote Control until you see the menu called "Panel Factory (+).
8) Press Enter on the Display's Remote Control.
9) Use the up or down arrow to navigate until you see "Panel-2 ADJ (+).
10) Press Enter on the Display's Remote Control.
11) Write down (AND SAVE THESE SETTINGS IN A SAFE PLACE) the Factory Set values for: R-HIGH, G-HIGH, B-HIGH, R-LOW, G-LOW, B-LOW.
12) Press the CALIBRATION OFF Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.
13) Press the POWER OFF Button on ControlCAL's Display Profile.